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  1. #1
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    Wrench

    FWIW...

    The approximate change in spring rate sounds significant to me.

    A full turn on the adjustment nut with stock bars = about 1/4" of lift VS
    1/2 turn with the HD bars = about 3/8", which should be about 3/4" at a full turn...

    By way of the limited comparative info, that sounds like close to 3 times the torsional resistance.

    When linked to an equally resistant "spring", by way of the SFIFS...

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub View Post
    FWIW...

    The approximate change in spring rate sounds significant to me.

    A full turn on the adjustment nut with stock bars = about 1/4" of lift VS
    1/2 turn with the HD bars = about 3/8", which should be about 3/4" at a full turn...

    By way of the limited comparative info, that sounds like close to 3 times the torsional resistance.

    When linked to an equally resistant "spring", by way of the SFIFS...
    That would seem to make it more stable as well. I dunno. There is a...gulp...Jeep dealership here in my area that has a club and they have ramps they use for owners to test flex and whatnot. It may be worth a trip for me just to make them look silly as well as gather some tangible empirical data.

    I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
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  3. #3
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    In relation to the change in height vs the turns on the adjuster. The adjusting bolt is a 1.25.inch bolt. Thr stock one was 22 or 24 mm iirc. I don't know if we can really compare the two as far as rate of change.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin View Post
    In relation to the change in height vs the turns on the adjuster. The adjusting bolt is a 1.25.inch bolt. Thr stock one was 22 or 24 mm iirc. I don't know if we can really compare the two as far as rate of change.
    That'd depend on pitch (TPI)

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub View Post
    That'd depend on pitch (TPI)
    Also true, but the way it adjusts is completely different than the factory setup. The adjusting bolt on the SFIFS is a direct connection meaning it is perpendicular to the torsion bar coupling. There are no angles involved so I think the actual distance the torsion bar is moved per thread is higher than with the OEM setup. It is also a gigantic PITA since it is adjusted with a wrench vice a socket. 1/16-1/8" of a turn at a time. A 2" body lift would help a lot
    I didn't do any comparisons with the OEM bars. I know that my passenger side bar was way "looser" than the driver's side. Seemed odd to me and I cannot fathom why, but it was what it was.

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