looks like a class 2 "Curt" brand hitch, really common model.
http://www.curtmfg.com/Category/4/Cl...iler%20Hitches
http://www.curtmfg.com/Category/1/Hitches
looks like a class 2 "Curt" brand hitch, really common model.
http://www.curtmfg.com/Category/4/Cl...iler%20Hitches
http://www.curtmfg.com/Category/1/Hitches
VX KAT
....the adventure BEGINS ANEW! ...2015......
Remember that life is not measured in the breaths you take, but rather in the moments that take your breath away.
Erik,
The Curt hitch shouldn't require removal of the rear cladding. That's why it's a popular alternative to the hidden hitch that Tone used to sell & I've been getting upgraded.
I can't help you out with the bolt arrangement on that one. The attachment points that I'm using are 6 threaded holes in the frame (3 on each side).
Good luck with the re-install. Let us know how it works out.
You may want to stop by your local U-Haul if they install hitches. IIRC, they sold the same hitch design. They should be able to bolt it right up for you fairly cheaply or at least give you a few pointers.
Tom
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Put a smiley after you say that Bub.
Your pics illustrate why I'll never powder coat a frame or any other critical part that's exposed to the elements!
That's the Curt/Dalan #13556 / Reese/Uhaul #757235.
Like Tom said, you don't have to remove any cladding. The frame rails are not fully enclosed at the end. You fish the carriage bolts and spacers through the opening. There's just enough room. And yes, the spacers have square holes which prevent the carriage bolts from turning, allowing you to tighten the nuts to 50 ft-lbs. The 12mm bolts get torqued to 62 ft-lbs.
You can find the instructions here:
https://www.hitchsource.com/images/c..._13556_INS.PDF
Hope this helps.