New member, isuzu's are for sale but I need help deciding which one of these to buy?!

[Bulldoggie]

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ight=newthings

Ooops...He sold it.

[ThornWeaver]

I'm not worried about the cost of the flight. One way is about 100 bucks, so no sweat there. Looks like the boards get busier around this time :-)

[89Vette]

Even though you ruled out the 3rd one, I wouldn't. Mostly because it's got the least miles AND the original engine...probably.

The other two have different engines AND, unless documented, might be out of higher-mileage vehicles.

Still, ya gotta like the 18" wheels and price of the detaildriven unit. He'd probably be the type of guy to produce documentation for the engine.

Color is a personal choice. That should play into your choice.

That 2nd one -- touting 20-25mph with the TOD mod....I'm not convinced he's telling the truth on that. And, anyone who stretches the truth, might massage over other "issues". Like how many miles are on the rebuilt engine. Or, even the quality of the rebuild.

[ThornWeaver]

Thank you Riff Raff,

That's some solid advice. I'm a bit impulsive/ quick to action on occasion, which might be due in part to my age (in my mid 20's). Thanks for talking me down a bit.

What do you mean "Given the amount of money you are willing to spend"? I budget about 7 grand as my absolute cap, but is that actually enough to get, say, a 2001 Proton with 90k miles? When I look around they're looking much more pricey than that...

Also, as long as we're on the topic:

ANYONE: Why are Proton's yellow so much preferred? Mechanical reason? Styling? Rarity? I missed something there, methinks.

Thank you again to Riff Raff for the thoughtful reply :-)

Cheers,
~Cameron

[VXorado]

ANYONE: Why are Proton's yellow so much preferred? Mechanical reason? Styling? Rarity? I missed something there, methinks.

People deprived of attention like the Protons... you stand out a bit more sporting yellow . Seriously, they're all the same other than the best ones which are Victory White Ironmans & actually have unique additions

...seriously again, all just individual preference depending on your favorite paint color, interior color and how much contrast you like between the cladding & paint. Personally I love em' all.

Pearl white is the only U.S. color choice that is really unique with a production of 1.

I know the owner Richard at detail driven autos & could possibly check out a VX for you. The dealership is about an hour away from me and I'm pretty busy but if you're very serious about one of his VXs, I can try to help out.

[Mile High VX]

About 1.5 hours for me, but if you find that it's the one you really want then I'll make some time and help.

[VX KAT]

Welcome to our forum, yes we are a rather tight knit group and a very friendly and helpful group too.

Start reading up and use the search function as there's a ton of very valuable info on this forum.

Since this is a group of enthusiasts we recently put together a pretty detailed checklist/questionnaire very specific to the VX and covers many issues that have arisen over time since the model is basically 10+ yrs old on average.
We thought a prospective buyer would be interested in this so you know what to ask about/look for.

Pick and choose whatever you want from this list....it's just a tool to get you started!

Good luck in your search!

DETAILED VX QUESTIONNAIRE /CHECKLIST FOR BUYERS OR SELLERS

*****************************************

ENGINE:

• Is it the original engine?
  
  
• Does it start easily/readily?
  
  
• Does it run smoothly or is there any strange sounds or hesitation,choking, etc ?
  
  
• Does it seem to idle smoothly, or is there any irratic racing on the tach, or other irregular idle, etc ?
  
  
• Anything (noises/clinking/whinning etc...) noticed when it's under load?
  
  
• Timing belt changed?
  
  
• Evaluate engine bay- clean? dirty? Any evidence of leaking fluids of any type??
  Evaluate fluid levels.
  
  
• Evaluate air filter- excessively dirty? OEM or after-market?
  
  
• Any known issues with it?
  
  
• Any oil consumption noted, under ANY conditions?.....dripping, blowing smoke from exhaust or just consuming it
  (some seem to consume a little when on prolonged highway driving)
  
  
• What type of fluids (synthetic oil or regular, motor oil, diff, tranny, transf case)?

TRANSMISSION:

• Is it the original tranny?
  
  
• Does it shift smoothly between all gears? Both up and down?
  
  
• Any unusual noises or clunking when shifting?
  
  
• Is there a slight delay before the gear engages when shifting? (lash)
  
  
• Any known issues with it?
  

MISC PERTAINING TO ENGINE & TRANNY:

• Any fluids dripping, ever?
  
  
• Last time & what fluids have been changed?
  
  
• Any unusual /excessive vibrations in engine or tranny, etc... - very subjective of course
  
  
• Any problems with motor mounts?
  
  
• Any unusual flashing of any lights on dash or shifter? (Mode selection switch may be bad)
  

TOD / 4-WHEEL DRIVE SYSTEM:

• Any problems with the TOD (Torque On Demand) system?
  
  
• Any clunking in tranny when decelerating or accelerating?
  
  
• BRAND, MODEL AND SIZE OF ALL 4 TIRES
  
  
• Do all 4 tires match in brand, size, model & wear?
  
  
• How long have these current 4 tires been on?
  
  
• Estimate of how much tread remains?
  
  

SUSPENSION / BODY / UNDERCARRIAGE / ETC:

• Are they still running the original OEM shocks? If not, replaced with what?
  
  
• Has muffler ever been replaced? What's the status of the current muffler? Rusted, surface rust, etc? OEM, after-market? (Since, as I understand it, these mufflers are no longer available, so an aftermarket one with some modification to the pipes may be required.)
  
  
• Has it had to go through emissions testing recently? (Some states require for registration, some don't)
  
  
• Ever been lifted or had torsion bars cranked?
  
  
• Condition of CV joints and CV boots? (Can be damaged after being lifted)
  
  
• Battery- status, condition and age
  
  
• Inspect thoroughly for rust!! Any evidence of rusted bolts anywhere?
  
  
• Status of front bumper reinforcement bar? (Often rusts off completely)
  
  
• Status of rear license plate light/socket/bracket -(often severely rusts) -will give indication if it was in a rust belt area.
  
  

WINDOWS:

• Electric windows work properly or bind?
  
  
• Condition of window rubber track/gaskets...(many have ripped or been cut)
  
  
• Look behind door panels to see if vapor barrier is present - (may indicate previous work on windows)
  
  
• Window regulator /motor been replaced?
  
  

BRAKING SYSTEM:

• Any ABS issues, dash light illuminated, or other problems?
  
  
• Original OEM brake pads or replacements?

INTERIOR:

• Condition of leather seats...scrapes, rips, tears, wear, abrasion, driver's side seat bolster
  
  
• Condition of leather steering wheel - (often heavily scraped up)
  
  
• Condition of inside door opening levers & mechanism (sometimes broken)
  
  
• Condition of levers that bring seat back forward to allow access to rear seats (often broken)
  
  
• Condition of 4 screw knobs on interior rear door panel (often break off)
  
  
• OEM CD player still work correctly or ERR3 code? Any jammed CDs?
  
  
• Any odors inside, such as smoke or dank/damp?
  
  

EXTERIOR:

• PAINT: Condition, scratches, dents, oxidation, matching panels, etc...
  
  
• CLADDING: Evaluate/describe condition of all cladding - scrapes, holes, deformation, dryness, chalky appearance, any evidence of being "painted" or "treated" in any way? Includes Rhino-liner, Line-X, GatorBack, etc...
  
  
• Are all cladding screws present? Any striped?
  
  
• Ever taken off road?
  
  
• OEM or after-market tail pipe?
  
  
• Status of tail pipe - any deformation may indicate off road use
  
  
• Status of rear lower cladding & rear gas tank skid plate- scrapes may indicate off road use
  
  
• Status of undercarriage overall - scrapes, damage, etc... may indicate off road use
  
  
• Does it have an OEM roof rack?
  
  
• Are the 4 OEM rail caps in place and/or available?
  
  

REPAIRS / SERVICE HISTORY:

• Any service history records?
  
  
• Any known repairs?
  
  
• Any extra parts on hand?

MISC:

• For 2000 and 2001 model, OEM chrome wheels peeling on backside?
  
  
• Determine the history of the car's physical location, if possible (i.e. East Coast, potential rust, desert, etc)
  
  
• Any "mods" done not mentioned above?
  
  
• How long have you owned it?
  

revised 3/5/12

[vt_maverick]

What do you mean "Given the amount of money you are willing to spend"? I budget about 7 grand as my absolute cap, but is that actually enough to get, say, a 2001 Proton with 90k miles? When I look around they're looking much more pricey than that...

So herein lies the great paradox of used car buying: do you spend high and buy something newer and with fewer miles, or do you spend lower and use the difference to make it your own? I've been on both sides with the VX, as I bought my first one with 22K miles on it 4 years ago for $14K. Got a good amount of mods done on it before a drunk driver totaled it last fall, but most were just cosmetic in nature. When I went hunting again last fall I actually had more cash in hand than the first go-round due to the insurance pay-out, but I decided to buy a cheaper VX with more miles and use the money to do more serious mods (5-speed transmission swap so far, and at least one more this spring).

It probably will be hard to find a 2001 VX with 90K miles (regardless of color) for $7K or less unless it's on the rough side. On the other hand you're far more likely to find a 99 with a new engine or transmission (as you already have) for the same price. If you can live with 16" wheels (until you replace them), no automatic climate control, and a monotone color (silver, black, and white were your only options in 99) the latter may be the way to go.

[Gussie2000]

If you can live with 16" wheels (until you replace them), no automatic climate control, and a monotone color (silver, black, and white were your only options in 99) the latter may be the way to go.[/QUOTE]

I don't think that the silver,the white and the black are monotone colors,they are the most popular colors up to today and that's why isuzu choose to offer back in 1999.

I neither see what could be wrong with the 16" wheels,these rims are more fitted for off roading then the 18" and i guess that's why isuzu also choose them over any other size.

The bottom line is that no matter what year is it do you best to find the BEST VX out there. 1999,2000 or 2001

[ThornWeaver]

I had liked the look of Number 1 (the one in CO, in black)....

89VETTE, part of the reason I had ruled out Number 3 was the distance to drive and what looked like rust behind those wheels. I could be totally wrong on that last part though...

[ThornWeaver]

looking at option 3 again though... spoke with my father and he had some words to say for sure...

[vt_maverick]

VXorado and Mile High are great guys, they both checked out my VX for me in Denver before I bought it and were a huge help in the negotiation and shipping process. Thanks again guys!

Btw, in case you didn't catch VXorado's joke above, the "unique additions" he refers to for Ironmans are just Ironman logo stickers.

[Ldub]

Btw, in case you didn't catch VXorado's joke above, the "unique additions" he refers to for Ironmans are just Ironman logo stickers.

And Sony eXplod speakers...which have prolly exploded by now anyway.

And the Ironman logo, embossed into the supple leather of the Recaros...

And "Ironman" floor mats...

Welcome to the Fam Thorn...

[VXorado]

VXorado and Mile High are great guys, they both checked out my VX for me in Denver before I bought it and were a huge help in the negotiation and shipping process. Thanks again guys!

Btw, in case you didn't catch VXorado's joke above, the "unique additions" he refers to for Ironmans are just Ironman logo stickers.

Well thank you .

The Ironman additions are definitely not enough to sway a decision. The Ironman hood decal is usually faded and cracked which requires removal/reconditioning.

[vt_maverick]

Nice work on the list Sue, it's not quite an eye-chart now that it's actually formatted with something other than "~" symbols.