VX "tracking" when I hit a bump...?

[Ebenezr]

Anyone, anyone?

How labor-intensive is this task (replacing ball joints) on VX (in terms of how much a mechanic would ask for the job)? Is it possible to do without removing caliper/rotor?

The shop I'd trust to do that is pretty far away, I wouldn't want to drive there just to get an estimate.

If your average mechanically it would take you 8 hours- 4 hours each side. there is a learning curve and it goes faster each time you do it. There are some "How to" links on this...I think. Maybe it was triathlete that (or was it Marlin) that posted a pictorial.??? but wherre the difficulty is when I have done it is replacement of the lower ball joint. You have to fight resistance from the suspension when religning and getting your bolts back in. Otherwise it is easy and a rewarding experience. Use a sledge to bang on the joints to pop them apart.

If you want to replace Tie rod sleeves -with actually the only one available on the market- then go to Indy4x4.com they have a beefed up version for the VX.

The kits of ball joints and tie rod ends are cheap and I found dozens on Ebay. The same year Trooper is identical so you may use the Trooper as your search term. also Carpartswholesale.com and some of the other comparable sites offer cheap kits. good luck. oh and you remove the caliper- easy but not the rotor. when you remove the caliper be prepared to immediately tie it up out of the way with a bungy or something.

[svbigtuna]

Bump steer and a loose front end. Ebenezr had it right check all of your suspension components. Mine did the same thing just like a lifted Toyota I had back in the day. to solve the issued in the Toyota's case was to add a stiffer shock where the steering stabilizer attached to the tie rod. This is not applicable with our Rack and Pinion steering

[Triathlete]

Figured you knew....was just throwing it out there for others that might have less offroad knowledge

[nfpgasmask]

Figured you knew....was just throwing it out there for others that might have less offroad knowledge

Word, son.

Bart

[RickOKC]

Figured you knew....was just throwing it out there for others that might have less offroad knowledge

I, for one, really appreciate stuff like that. THANKS!

[Breezy]

I went around and stiffened all my Rancho 9000 shocks. There were set really soft. I put them all to level 7 and the ride improved dramatically! What would the best settings be for handling/comfort?

[VX KAT]

I went around and stiffened all my Rancho 9000 shocks. There were set really soft. I put them all to level 7 and the ride improved dramatically! What would the best settings be for handling/comfort?

The Rancho brochure says: F/R
Highway: 6/3
Sport: 8/6
Work/Tow/Haul: 6/8
Off-Road: 4/4

I have a major stretch of washboard on my dirt road that's really severe this year.
I had been running mine at 4/4 for a while, but going about 23-35 mph over that washboard...it jiggled and vibrated the truck so bad my compass on the dash would move up and down on it's hinge and my steering wheel would shake and move too....

Otherwise, the front was a little too floaty/bouncy on dirt/gravel roads. Just changed it to 6/3 last week and it's much MUCH better. It handles the washboard better, not quite as bone jarring vibration and the compass stays still.

Our dirt road is private, no city maintenance, so various residents hop on their tractors after a good rain and grade the road by dragging a blade behind the tractor....but it's been so hot and dry, nobody's been able to do that for the past 6-8 weeks, so the washboard that's developed is just fierce.

Also lowered the air pressure yesterday from 40-41 down to 35, and logically, that made the washboard a bit mellower as well.
I like this combo, think I'll keep running them at 6/3, and may air up a little if the road gets scraped.