Tranny slipping issues....?

[WiSDoM]

I had tranny problem a few years ago too.
i would do what LDUB said and make sure you take it to a tranny shop. Make sure to that they cycle thru the gears and then check the fluid levels again before they are done.
I had mine service at PEP boys once and had them do a tranny flush and the idiots only put in 3 qts. it was a complete fubar.
PS. if you need a another one let me know. I have mine from my engine swap sitting in my garage. it had 40,000 mile on it when I put it in and I ran it for another two years maybe put another 20,000 on it, but I doubt it was that much.

[mantis]

from what you are saying im suspecting the brake band servo piston is out of torque,it wouldn't hurt if you check it out yourself, its in the valve body, you are gonna need a an oil pan gasket(ratherly the ones from an isuzu parts) for the main case of transmission, its easy to work under the truck since you have a good space from the ground, disconnect the battery ground, support the transfer case with a jack dont lift it much, just lay its weight on the jack, there are 2 screws holding the transmission to the third cross member and 4 screws on each side of third cross member, the third cross member is right under the transmission, you're gonna have to unclip some wires and harnesses in order to get the third cross member of the truck,once you get the third cross member off drain the transmission fluid by unplugging the drain plug which is the on on the bottom of the pan,drop the main case oil pan which is the bigger oil pan of transmission and , drop the oil filter 3 screws(13mm), you should be able to see the servo piston cover that is almost 4 inch by 4 inch bowl thing with 4 screws(13 mm) attaching to the valve body, get the cover off and the servo piston is in there, there is rod coming out of the servo piston that has a locknut and the very end of the rod looks like bolt head, loosen the lock nut and using a trque wrench(you can buy that for like 25$ from auto parts), tight the rod to
4.5 nm then back off 5 turns exactly, then tight the lock nut to 18.5 nm holding the rod with another wrench so the rod wouldn't go out of torque, if the gasket of servo piston is warned out or it broke replace it with a new one make sure you clean the surfaces, tight the 4 screws of servo cover (13mm) to 25 nm, install the oil filter tight the three screws(13mm) to 20 nmtruly clean the oil pan contact surface with transmission and the transmission where it contacts the oil pan with, make sure there is nothing on those areas, clean up all the screws, put the oil pan back and torque all the screws to 11 nm(16 screws 10mm), put the third cross member back on and make sure the transmission holder 2 bolts pass through their holes in centre of the third cross member tight the screws to 50 nm, put the wires and harnesses back on, you can buy a manual pump in autozone for like 8$, follow the procedure of oil change that ldup posted, save yourself at least 3000$, they estimated me for that much when i had the same problem, give it a shot and good luck

[Tornado]

How do you guy's make sure the trans oil is at the proper temp when checking the level?

[Ldub]

How do you guy's make sure the trans oil is at the proper temp when checking the level?

http://www.harborfreight.com/non-con...ter-93983.html

...

[Tornado]

I'm assuming you're checking the transmission temp with that tool? What about the actual oil temp?

[Ldub]

I'm assuming you're checking the transmission temp with that tool? What about the actual oil temp?

I don't get that wrapped in it...

For me, close enough, is close enough.

[spaceCADETzoom]

My transmission is slipping from a stop. Seems to run fine when I"m going, but this morning the a/t oil temp light came on, I pull over, park, and it goes off, and I try heading back home. But now it's slipping every time I go from a stop. Looks like the differentials are leaking (both!?).

Will be bringing it in back to the shop after labor day. They had just finished swapping in a new long block (needed a new engine). My question is...does this tranny/diff issue have anything to do with the shop screwing up when they installed the new engine, or is this the freaking perfect storm of automotive disasters for me?

[atilla_the_fun]

could you explain what the brake band does, and what symptoms it would show?

from what you are saying im suspecting the brake band servo piston is out of torque,it wouldn't hurt if you check it out yourself, its in the valve body, you are gonna need a an oil pan gasket(ratherly the ones from an isuzu parts) for the main case of transmission, its easy to work under the truck since you have a good space from the ground, disconnect the battery ground, support the transfer case with a jack dont lift it much, just lay its weight on the jack, there are 2 screws holding the transmission to the third cross member and 4 screws on each side of third cross member, the third cross member is right under the transmission, you're gonna have to unclip some wires and harnesses in order to get the third cross member of the truck,once you get the third cross member off drain the transmission fluid by unplugging the drain plug which is the on on the bottom of the pan,drop the main case oil pan which is the bigger oil pan of transmission and , drop the oil filter 3 screws(13mm), you should be able to see the servo piston cover that is almost 4 inch by 4 inch bowl thing with 4 screws(13 mm) attaching to the valve body, get the cover off and the servo piston is in there, there is rod coming out of the servo piston that has a locknut and the very end of the rod looks like bolt head, loosen the lock nut and using a trque wrench(you can buy that for like 25$ from auto parts), tight the rod to
4.5 nm then back off 5 turns exactly, then tight the lock nut to 18.5 nm holding the rod with another wrench so the rod wouldn't go out of torque, if the gasket of servo piston is warned out or it broke replace it with a new one make sure you clean the surfaces, tight the 4 screws of servo cover (13mm) to 25 nm, install the oil filter tight the three screws(13mm) to 20 nmtruly clean the oil pan contact surface with transmission and the transmission where it contacts the oil pan with, make sure there is nothing on those areas, clean up all the screws, put the oil pan back and torque all the screws to 11 nm(16 screws 10mm), put the third cross member back on and make sure the transmission holder 2 bolts pass through their holes in centre of the third cross member tight the screws to 50 nm, put the wires and harnesses back on, you can buy a manual pump in autozone for like 8$, follow the procedure of oil change that ldup posted, save yourself at least 3000$, they estimated me for that much when i had the same problem, give it a shot and good luck

[Triathlete]

Yes, I am sure they had to disconnect the tranny cooler lines to remove the engine. So the swap could be tied to it if they did not refill the tranny properly. But it could just be some pretty rotten luck...hope not and they make it right. Are you throwing any codes or is the tranny light coming on?

I just got done buttoning up my tranny tonight. I have been leaking bad for a while. I dropped the pan, since I was in there changed the filter, new gasket and filled it with fresh fluid including a bottle of Lucas stop slip. Left the skids off for the night to see if anything leaks. Also scrubed the pan...first time it has ever been silver! Had all kinds of fluid burned on to it.

My transmission is slipping from a stop. Seems to run fine when I"m going, but this morning the a/t oil temp light came on, I pull over, park, and it goes off, and I try heading back home. But now it's slipping every time I go from a stop. Looks like the differentials are leaking (both!?).

Will be bringing it in back to the shop after labor day. They had just finished swapping in a new long block (needed a new engine). My question is...does this tranny/diff issue have anything to do with the shop screwing up when they installed the new engine, or is this the freaking perfect storm of automotive disasters for me?