Aluminum Radiator

[newthings]

As to weight, I would guess 3 lbs more than stock and almost a gallon more in fluid at 8 lbs/gal. Total guess at 10lbs. We could start a lottery.
Roy

[Riff Raff]

I'm wondering for those of you having overheating problems if going to a lower temperature "themostat" may be worthwhile??? Our OEM factory VX thermostat is rated at 170-degrees. During an internet search, the lowest temperature aftermarket thermostat I could find for the VX was 160-degrees (see "link" below).

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...gs+Best+Seller

Perhaps changing to a 160-degree thermostat may help.

[VXorado]

I'm wondering for those of you having overheating problems if going to a lower temperature "themostat" may be worthwhile??? Our OEM factory VX thermostat is rated at 170-degrees. During an internet search, the lowest temperature aftermarket thermostat I could find for the VX was 160-degrees (see "link" below).

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...gs+Best+Seller

Perhaps changing to a 160-degree thermostat may help.

Thats a good idea and is worth looking more into. Too bad the thermostat is at the bottom of the engine . Its almost worth spending $600 on a bigger radiator just to not deal with pulling the engine apart.

Also, the torqflo fan clutch works very well at cooling the engine. It makes the engine sound like a semi (all fan sound) and pulls a noticable amount of power from the engine. I couldn't handle the sound after a couple months and replaced it with a another brand.

[Riff Raff]

Too bad the thermostat is at the bottom of the engine .

Huh??? Are you absolutely sure the VX Thermostat is located on the bottom of the engine (I've never heard of that before on any type of automotive engine)???

Please see the engine diagram lay-out in Post #6 of the below thread by member "Deer Magnet". Part #1 (labeled "NSS" ~ aka Thermostat & gasket #66) of Section B shows that section B is mounted top-front-center of the engine block, and in VX-KAT's pictures of this thread show that it's located directly underneath the front center air snorkel coming from the air cleaner at the very top-front-center of the engine (not bottom of engine).

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...threadid=21611

Unless I'm mistaken; changing a thermostat on a VX is very easy and couldn't be more simplier, as it is located top-front-center of engine within easy reach.

[Ldub]

Huh???

Unless I'm mistaken; changing a thermostat on a VX is very easy and couldn't be more simplier, as it is located top-front-center of engine within easy reach.

Ummmmmm...not so much

I think he means under the intake manifold, which it is. (go pop your hood)

I've only ever heard of one person saying he was able to change the thermostat without removing the intake manifold, & he said it was such an undertaking that he would have pulled the intake & all the peripheral what-not, were he to do it again.

Also, that's the only way to be sure that all the O-rings etc are in place & properly sealed.

Since a pretty good percentage of 6VE1's prolly have their orig heater hoses, O-rings & intake gaskets intact, it's prolly worth pulling the intake....

Suzee, that rad is a thing of beauty....

[VX KAT]

Suzee, that rad is a thing of beauty....

thx Dub

[Ldub]

thx Dub

BTW...if you want me to fab up a cover for that hole in the shroud, it shouldn't take long on the stoop......

I'll bring all the necessary what-not...

[VXorado]

Huh??? Are you absolutely sure the VX Thermostat is located on the bottom of the engine (I've never heard of that before on any type of automotive engine)???

Please see the engine diagram lay-out in Post #6 of the below thread by member "Deer Magnet". Part #1 (labeled "NSS" ~ aka Thermostat & gasket #66) of Section B shows that section B is mounted top-front-center of the engine block, and in VX-KAT's pictures of this thread show that it's located directly underneath the front center air snorkel coming from the air cleaner at the very top-front-center of the engine (not bottom of engine).

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...threadid=21611

Unless I'm mistaken; changing a thermostat on a VX is very easy and couldn't be more simplier, as it is located top-front-center of engine within easy reach.

Had to give me a hard time...huh . You can change "bottom" to "under stuff." I didn't mean the actual bottom, I was just expressing that its a lot of work to get to the thermostat. I haven't had a reason to pull the intake manifold yet on the VX but I've read several posts on the thermostat being a PITA to install. Dub knows.

[Ldub]

the thermostat being a PITA to install. Dub knows.

we're well aquainted....

.

[VXorado]

Littlebeast, I bet you have the Torqflo... I ran that one years ago and it's a bit of a power suck...

Also, the torqflo fan clutch works very well at cooling the engine. It makes the engine sound like a semi (all fan sound) and pulls a noticeable amount of power from the engine. I couldn't handle the sound after a couple months and replaced it with a another brand.

After getting tired of the "semi truck fan," I went to Pepboys where I purchased another aftermarket fan clutch (It was blue-Hayden?). Sounded normal again but my engine started running hot again in hot weather+A/C. So I decided to bite the bullet for the FFD electric fans and immediately the engine ran hotter all the time. I ran the FFD fans for a couple months but it was during the winter and was worried I would get stranded somewhere on the first warm Spring day. A month before Moab 2012, I desperately pulled a junkyard OEM fan clutch off an older Isuzu Rodeo and BAM, problem solved. You can hear the fan but it's much less noticeable than the torqflo and I can run A/C whenever & wherever (i.e. stopped on a trail in Moab with 95 Degree weather).

Moral of the story? Start small and know that the aftermarket brands are not all created equal (or spec'd the same ). In a pinch, the AutoZone Torqflo clutch will cool the engine but you'll definitely notice (and hear) it!!! The Rodeo's may have come with a better fan clutch than the VXes or it's just spec'd to pull a bit more air through the radiator. It's possible a 1st gen Rodeo aftermarket fan clutch might work the same as my OEM Rodeo junkyard clutch. If that doesn't fix the issue, I would move to a new radiator. Definitely skip the FFD fan setup and save yourself some hard earned cash (or if you want one, I'll sell it to you CHEAP).

[VX KAT]

Are these going to be readily available or built to order? Or, is it just a one-off?

What's the weight comparison to the OEM or aftermarket equivalent? (I have some GM model since my old one went POP but it's the same really) Anywhere I can shave weight, I am a happy camper.

Have to agree though, that shroud needs some TLC. Also curious, since the shroud has been slightly relocated, I wonder if this would affect the S/C belt. Highly doubt it, but just thinking out loud.

As to weight, I would guess 3 lbs more than stock and almost a gallon more in fluid at 8 lbs/gal. Total guess at 10lbs. We could start a lottery.
Roy

Got some info from Ron Davis Racing:

• Weighs around 14 lbs vs. OEM 11 lbs. Roy was right on the mark!
• Holds a few more ounces than the OEM
• Part number which is 1-24RO9397
  
• Also fits a Rodeo (but didn't give model years)
• He was surprised to hear the shroud needed to be cut....so I'm not sure where the problem lies...was it in their measurement & manufacture or my mechanics install....

[newthings]

Hmmm,
Check that the rubber donuts are on the two pins at the bottom edges of the rad. These cushion the rad from the frame. They also raise the rad about 1". No donuts would drop the rad/shroud onto the fan and require a cutout.
Worth checking. I ordered new, but found the 10 year old rubber was as soft as the new. I think I kept the old ones if you need them.

Roy

[VX KAT]

Big thanks to Dub for making an aluminum treadplate "cover" and pop-riveting it to my OEM shroud where it had to be cut out for the blades to clear. Every little bit of air helps! Thanks again Dubster!

[VX KAT]

Just curious….now that I have a ScanGaugeII to play with and can see the water temp all the time….

Went to Phoenix today, full A/C, going up/down the mountain curvy roads….
Normal is 180,
Went up to around 188 if sitting at light.
Hit 194 when idling for about 10 minutes.
Hit 200 coming up steep mountain/curves.
Goes right down once air is moving.

Needle never moved on gauge.


~ What kind of temps do you see when A/C is going and you're cruising highway speed, air temp around 90?

~ How much does it increase if you're under load for a while (uphill)?


Still don't know yet if fan clutch and blade replacement "fixed" the problem….need a much hotter day…that won't be hard to get if I go down to PHX.

[AZOutlaw]

VX Kat, glad to see that the radiator has helped. I met Ron through work, and would definitely buy from him- he is a really nice guy. Have you spent any summer days (110+ degree)down in Phx with that radiator? any issues when it gets really hot here?