Just changed my timing belt for the first time....at 138K. It didn't look like it would have snapped, but maybe skipped a notch sometime soon. At any rate, 138K says alot about Isuzu OEM parts quality.
Just changed my timing belt for the first time....at 138K. It didn't look like it would have snapped, but maybe skipped a notch sometime soon. At any rate, 138K says alot about Isuzu OEM parts quality.
you got lucky. They dont always show wear and between the use and the high temps under a hood its better to be safer than sorry. I would suggest 215,000 for the next one or 7 years
"Take it up with my butt, cuz he's the only one that gives a crap"
Carter Pewterschmidt
Thank you for that perspective and advice. We'll change my wife's '99 exactly at the factory recommended 100K.
Mine has 140,000+ on it....yeah, I know, gotta change it some time soon!
Pretty sure I will get to it before the 215,000 mark! ~
Billy Oliver
15xIronman
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At least neglecting it won't wreck the engine, like on some engines.
Yeah, but if you breakdown out in the desert, the tow bill and motel stay while they fix it will wreck your wallet and your marrige, I'll bet.
I've heard of one guy making 145k on the original belt, but that's the record I think?
Still on the original water pump too...no leaks ands bearings still sound good.
Mine is the original water pump at 138K. And no leaks so we'll go another round, so to speak.
What's the deal about time ? Some of our VXs have low mileage but the 99s are getting 11+ years on the timing belts. Do they need to be changed ?
My Isuzu trained master technician says if it's not leaking leave it alone (He's said that for years, my wife's first '99 he did the belt at 100K , and said leave the pump alone. It's still running strong in Moscow. I guess if it's not broken don't fix it sort of mentality. ( By the way this guy has all sorts of special Vehicross training from way back when, he's got a wal full of Isuzu certificates.)
On the 3.2 and 3.5s the water pump or tensioner usually fails before the belt does. Mine all got changed at 88k miles because the guy I bought it from did all that plus new clutch and windshield before selling it (the reason I bought it even though I didnt want black).
Rubber does break down and dry out over time so it may not last as long as far as miles. But the biggest enemy to rubber is UV which isnt an issue with t-belts. Can probably go another 11 years lol.What's the deal about time ? Some of our VXs have low mileage but the 99s are getting 11+ years on the timing belts. Do they need to be changed ?
I wouldnt change the t-belt without changing the water pump. I just dont like doing work twice. If I just did the belt, the pump would fail on me 2 weeks later.
--Dave
Like I said... if it ain't broke don't fix it. It's just that simple. And this guy I work with you can bet your bottom dollar on.
So why doesn't that apply to the timing belt?
You get the timing belt changed when it's working fine as preventive maintenance, before it breaks. The same principle applies to the water pump 'cuz it's so difficult to get to. You have to dig deep to get to the water pump behind the timing belt. As long as you're right there anyway, it'll take just a few minutes and not much money to change the water pump.
If your water pump fails soon, it'll be such a waste to have to remove the timing belt again. You may say, "the water pump will probably last for years longer". You could say the same thing about the original timing belt. If you decide to do preventive maintenance on one part, why neglect the other?
A broken timing belt is rare. A water pump problem is much more common. The water pump is by far the weaker part. If you're only gonna change one of those parts and not the other, I'd change the water pump. Change 'em both and be done with it.
Mark Griffin
Last edited by deermagnet : 06/25/2011 at 09:10 PM
Think about it this way...everything around the t-belt is worn after 138K. That means the cam gears etc. So the most pliable or flexible item is the rubber belt. To break in other new metal/hard items carries an inherent risk of inbalance or noise in the whole chain of action. They run the risk of becoming minimally dissimilar components near term which causes extra pressure on the old items and are thus more prone to causing failure. Keep everything the same as much as possible...that's the best scenario.