Remote Popper - IT WORKS!!

[RallyDude]

I use the key in mine. Works every time.

[MSHardeman]

Dragging this up again. I know many of you have been waiting on pins and needles to see how this turned out.

I FINALLY got this to work!! NO, I haven't been working on it since my last post. Stepped away from it for a while, then recently got the bug to give it another shot. Had a few wrinkles due to the fact that the wiring under my dash is a little different due to the previous owner, and I am using the stock Isuzu Tailgate Release button.

So you don't have to read through everything:

With the key out of the VX (and it's armed), one press of the disarm button unlocks both the driver and passenger door. Two presses of the disarm button triggers the rear door popper.

With the key out of the VX pressing the unlock button on either door will also trigger the rear door popper. In eiter of these scenarios the Tailgate Release button will NOT trigger the rear door popper.

With the key in the VX and turned to run, neither the key fob, nor the door unlock buttons will trigger the rear door popper, but the Tailgate Release button in the dash will.

If you want to give this a shot, it's really pretty easy to do and I'd be happy to walk anyone through it.

[etlsport]

Glad you got it working, sorry I hadn't had a chance to sit and figure out what was going on. What ended up being the issue?

[ojmagg]

@ MSHardeman...I'd be interested to know how you wired up this setup with the TGate factory switch. I could never get it to work properly

ojmagg@yahoo.com

[MSHardeman]

etlsport and ojmagg, it ended up being the factory tailgate switch itself. If you hook the output from the factory switch into the new five post relay per Raque's instructions the switch allows enough voltage to pass through (verified by my volt meter), but it must not allow enough amperage through to trigger the solenoid at the tail gate.

I am no electrical guy AT ALL, so it took me a little while, and some reading up on how/what a relay does, to work through this. Right now my stock release button is wired through a four post relay, and from what I am finding out when you press the button a small current goes to the relay and "trips" it allowing a higher current to pass through the other side of the relay and triggering the solenoid. What I finally figured out was that I needed to wire the high current output from the four post relay (which would normally go back to the solenoid) into the input from the release button in the new five post relay on Raque's diagram. I'm sure that's not confusing at all.

I would be happy to draw up the new wiring diagram and post it up or send it to anyone who would like to try this. I'd also be happy to talk anyone through it. Just shoot me a pm with a phone number and we'll have a popper party.

[ojmagg]

If you could post up the wiring diagram, that would be good...

[yellowgizmo99]

X2 on that diagram.

[Knigh7s]

x3 on that diagram!

I'm in the middle of working on this and it looks like this is what I'm looking for!

[MSHardeman]

Sorry y'all, forgot about this. I will pull all of my wiring diagrams together, CAD 'em up and try to post them up in the next couple of days.

Knigh7s, if you need to talk through this sooner, PM me your number and I'll give you a call.

[Knigh7s]

Thanks, but I'm still waiting for a few more parts in the mail. So no rush here...

I ordered a waterproof switch that will be wired to the little handgrip (cup?) on the back door. So my main question would be, if the alarm is armed, would the button whether it is installed inside or out, be disengaged?

[etlsport]

Depends on how you wire it in... If you wire it how the normal switch would work, it will only work with key in ignition.


Ive thought about this a few times(how to put a switch in the handle that is secure)


The only things I have come up with are:


tie the relay in with the dome light bulb (instead of ignition)
Pro- when you press the unlock button on the remote the switch is active for 30sec.
If you jump out to grab something and leave the front door open the switch will still be active
Con- the switch wont work if you shut all doors, run inside and come back unless you arm/disarm the alarm.
The dome light drops to 6v during the dimming process. This makes most relays buzz during the dimming process.




Get aftermarket remote light system (like for offroad lights) and wire the output into the relay

Pro- you can turn the switch on and off.
You could wire a second output to hold the door unlocked (very useful on hills)
Con- you need 2 remotes
You could forget to disable the switch
If you activate the switch but dont disarm the alarm, tou will set off the alarm

[MSHardeman]

Sorry for the delay, but I finally got the new wiring diagram drawn up. I hope it's clear enough, but if you have any questions let me know.

I've lived with it this way for a few weeks now, and it's pretty cool to be able to walk up to the VX, push the disarm button on the remote a couple of times and have to door pop open for you.

[Knigh7s]

AWESOME!!!

I would assume this is what the diagram entails?
(scroll down for another question! )

With the key out of the VX (and it's armed), one press of the disarm button unlocks both the driver and passenger door. Two presses of the disarm button triggers the rear door popper.

With the key out of the VX pressing the unlock button on either door will also trigger the rear door popper. In eiter of these scenarios the Tailgate Release button will NOT trigger the rear door popper.

With the key in the VX and turned to run, neither the key fob, nor the door unlock buttons will trigger the rear door popper, but the Tailgate Release button in the dash will.

If you want to give this a shot, it's really pretty easy to do and I'd be happy to walk anyone through it.

Sorry for the delay, but I finally got the new wiring diagram drawn up. I hope it's clear enough, but if you have any questions let me know.

I've lived with it this way for a few weeks now, and it's pretty cool to be able to walk up to the VX, push the disarm button on the remote a couple of times and have to door pop open for you.

Also, I'm scratching my head, because this is pretty new to me, would anyone know how to deactivate the switch if the alarm is on? Etl touched on it a bit, but I'm not really liking the "cons" to much! Reason being, I'm installing a waterproof switch on the exterior like the newer vehicles these days.

I'm thinking, if I tied in another relay that will completely cut off power to the whole setup when armed, but where would that relay go?

[etlsport]

You might be able to find a relay that has a normally closed contact and then ooens when power is applied (or a double throw might work) then you could tap into the alarm somewhere, but not sure where, the alarm indicator maybe but im guessing that is not constant since the led flashes.

Jack (pbkid) knows more about alarms than most, maybe he can shed some light on constant outputs from an alarm

[MSHardeman]

Knigh7s, that is what the diagram entails:

Key out; rear popper works by either pressing the unlock button on the stock Isuzu remote twice, or pressing the unlock button on either door.

Key in (and on); rear popper works by pressing the tailgate release button

Depending on the load that your new external button can handle, you may need a relay no matter what. You could do another five post relay that has constant power when the alarm isn't on, but when the alarm is activated it would throw the relay and cut power to the external button...... I just have no idea how to achieve that.

Like etl said, you would need to find some constant on power coming from the alarm system somewhere.