Alleged ABS unit FIX described

[circmand]

Needs More Cowbell

[ScottinMA]

Did anyone do this and tell us whether it worked?

[circmand]

Did anyone do this and tell us whether it worked?

Of course we havent heard anyone say they tried it and it didnt work either

[Knigh7s]

Oops, been busy, haven't had time to do it. Maybe this weekend...

[SlowPro48]

I haven't tried it - but I'll tell you anyway! NO it will not work.

Hose the connector down with contact cleaner if you want - maybe you'll get lucky and an oxidized pin or two was your only problem. I doubt it though - it's a good connector.

But DON'T waste your time spraying anything in the control module. You can't fix Fine German Engineering with a spray can!

I'm betting he just jarred the broken bus wires when he removed the EBCM to spray behind it, the ends made contact and the ABS light went out for a day or two. Or since the back of the EBCU is open - if his contact cleaner was Caig Deoxit and he shot enough in there to make it all the way back to the circuit board - and wash the protective gel off too - it would inhibit aluminum oxide formation in the break and the ABS light might stay off for several weeks - but the bottom line is - if he's got the classic Bosch 5 series problem, spraying contact cleaner will NOT fix it. AFAIK, you cannot fix a broken wire with anything that comes out of spray can. But hey, it IS possible to "fix" the problem with something that comes out of a tube! (silver epoxy) For a while anyway. The engine compartment gets pretty hot which is probably one reason the bus wires fail in the first place (aluminum wire with a sharp bend, lots of vibration and heat cycling.... can you say metal fatigue?) so even if you use a high temp silver epoxy like Duralco 124 it would probably break down eventually. They crow about it lasting 6 months at 650 degrees F though so it might last for many years at our 150-200 degree engine compartment temps.

Oh, and PK that was a good thought but there are no external moving parts on the hydraulic section so don't bother hosing it down with lube. I'm sure you can find something else to lube. If you want to see if those valves move freely use a magnet. The outlet valves (the flat topped ones) are normally closed so just put the magnet on top and you'll hear the click. The inlets (rounded top) are normally open so just put the magnet on the side and stroke it up and down that's right stroke it, stroke it real good - oh sorry - I don't know what came over me - it's like I was channeling someone else's thoughts - all of a sudden I had visions of roof racks dancing in my head and I started thinking about the shape of those inlet valves - they look like little.... ahhhh nevermind... anyway you should hear the valve clicking when you move the magnet up and down that's all I'm trying to say. But that doesn't tell you it's sealing properly - just moving as it should...