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Thread: CV boot->ABS sensor->S/S brake lines

  1. #1
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    CV boot->ABS sensor->S/S brake lines

    Thought I'd start a new thread since this has gotten more complicated....

    Mechanic discovered a torn passenger side CV boot yesterday while installing the Rocky Road SuperSliders. Didn't have any odd noises or anything.
    Check out that large lump of grease below it.
    Left it there for him to fix, didn't want to drive with the torn boot.

    Any estimate how long it's been this way?
    Maybe I tore it in Moab? If so, I've driven it for about 550 miles since.


    ~Now, mech guy says I need a new front pass ABS sensor cuz I think he meant it was trashed getting the CV boot repaired. (?? is that reasonable?)

    ~I call junkyards (from my handy dandy spreadsheet list), on FIRST call to the closest yard just 75 miles away, find one off a '98 Trooper, Have mech speak to yard to make sure it's right part--> yes, $65 shipped. (ebay shows some new non-OEM for over $400 ) Hope to gawd this is the right part....and it fits.....and in good condition.....
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Stand...Q5fAccessories


    ~Well, he!!, let's just get those S/S braided brake lines I've been wanting while they're in there.......talked to Matt, got a set 2 day shipped to shop, arrive Friday. Matt said these lines are above the axle and he can't see them being affected by the Kilby skids at all.....good!

    Let's hope this all goes smoothly....
    Any input or warnings/info is most welcomed!









    Driver's side- looks OK.
    VX KAT
    ....the adventure BEGINS ANEW! ...2015......
    Remember that life is not measured in the breaths you take, but rather in the moments that take your breath away.

  2. #2
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    Oh-Oh...

  3. #3
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    Sue,

    I had to have my drivers side axle seal redone right before Moab, and the mechanics trashed the ABS sensor when they tried to take it off to get the rotor out of the way so they could get to the axle.

    The sensors are little magnets that sense the "tone ring" as it spins by on the back of the front rotor. The sensors are made out of platic and are notorious for "welding" themselves to their mounting holes over time. I actually had a new one shipped to The Stoop, and replaced mine right there in the parking lot on that Monday. The sensors are something like $400 so I was NOT happy when the mechanics trashed mine.

    I suppose one from a u-pull-it yard would work, but the problem would be getting it off of the vehicle it's attached to without trashing it in the process.
    "The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong, it usually turns out to be impossible to get at or repair."
    -Douglas Adams, Mostly Harmless

  4. #4
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    Sue, Sounds like the mechanic didn't follow the easy "how to" on this site.
    If you follow that, you don't touch the ABS sensor or ring, and do the boot change in half the time.

    I wouldn't worry about how long ago it tore - the grease around the torn boot looks fresh and hasn't had an opportunity to build up dust and crud, so your CV should be fine.

    Time to do the other side as well - both wheels have turned the same number of turns.

    PK
    Now that food has replaced sex in my life -

    I can't even get into my own pants!!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by PK View Post
    Sue, Sounds like the mechanic didn't follow the easy "how to" on this site.
    If you follow that, you don't touch the ABS sensor or ring, and do the boot change in half the time.

    .....there's definitely some down sides to having a "rare unique" vehicle...doesn't excuse him not figuring it out/looking it up/being more careful.....

    I wouldn't worry about how long ago it tore - the grease around the torn boot looks fresh and hasn't had an opportunity to build up dust and crud, so your CV should be fine.

    Good point, have to admit I didn't even think of that.....all that tan/orange stuff you see everywhere is from the dirt road...and there's NONE on the grease......could I have been so lucky that it blew in the 9 mile drive up there?? Must be!

    Time to do the other side as well - both wheels have turned the same number of turns...... yeah, good advice..better call him tomorrow and add that to the list......

    PK
    Mark I do recall now you were installing that in the Stoop fix-it-lot...did you buy new OEM or aftermarket new?

    Thanks all for the input!

  6. #6
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    $400 for an ABS exciter ring?!?!?! WTF!

  7. #7
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    See my post in the other thread. Boots are a under $50 fix for all 4 (for parts and do the labor yourself).

    If mechanic charged you more than 2 hours labor he was doing it wrong. If I can do one side in an hour with my limited tools, there is no way they can't do better, that is unless they have no idea what they are doing and ruin a perfectly good ABS sensor. This is their fault for not knowing how to remove the parts. I had a mechanic tell me the same thing before I knew any better. The idiot mechanic on my VX put a gear puller on the rear axles and kept pulling until he crushed the ABS sensor in half instead of removing the 2 10mm bolts that hold the ABS sensor in place and then the rear axle just slides out easily (no puller necessary). Removing and/or touching the ABS sensor is not involved with CV Boot repair. I got my replacement ABS sensor from Lisa (VXCrazy), thanks again Lisa! I betcha she has the fronts still in case yours doesn't work out. Oh and by the way I drove with the ruined ABS sensor in place with no noticable difference in braking at all :-) In fact braking was better because ABS was not working. This is the only car that I think "they" somehow got the ABS wrong on :-)

    Oh and I don't think I would personally fix the other CV until it breaks. Isuzu cv boots are the only ones superior to all others for our vehicles.
    Last edited by LittleBeast : 06/15/2011 at 11:03 PM

  8. #8
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    I need to check with 'Axle Guy'. He just finished rebuilding my half shafts. He said that the boots were hard to find but put some on that look at least as good as the OEM. I think he said that they were about $20 each.

    May be a good alternative for those not lifted or those lifted with diff drops. Don't think I'd put them on though if the CV angles are bad.


    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  9. #9
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    I trashed both my ABS sensors when I rebuilt mine and they were WELDED in place for sure. OME ones from Merlin are in the 400.00 range but I found a nice one from a salvage yard in California and itr was in perfect shape. Check the vendor area, which is how I got their contact info. I am currently riding around without a passenger side sensor as I have been too lazy to round one up. I took my dremel too and slightly sanded the hole where the sensor passes through and applied a good supply of anti-seize to the sensor. I seriously doubt it will weld itself again.

    And FYI... the retail price from Merin on the rear sensor(s) was 1600.00 so be very afraid when dealing with those puppies!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by VX KAT View Post
    Mark I do recall now you were installing that in the Stoop fix-it-lot...did you buy new OEM or aftermarket new?

    Thanks all for the input!
    Sue, the mechanics felt bad about trashing the sensor so they gave it to me at their cost (still $380ish) with no mark-up, and since I installed it myself there was no labor involved. The part you buy is actually the sensor, it's wire up to the connection right behind the top of the shock, and two or three brackets that hold the wire out of the way. It's still a rediculously expensive part for what it is AND I ended up removing (and reinstalling) one of the brackets to snake the wire where it needed to go and had to shave down one of the other brackets to get it all to fit in correctly. I didn't think about it, but I should have done what Buffy did so that it wouldn't weld itself in there again. Maybe I should get on that now while it's still fresh.

    As a slight thread jack; what would be the "right" thing to do when one of these mechanics breaks something to get at what you wanted them to fix in the first place? Who would have known that the ABS sensor would fuse itself to the front hub assembly, and would break as you try to pull it out? Should they be on the hook to pay for something like that, or is it just expected for some things to go wrong as you get in there to fix other stuff? If I had been doing this repair and trashed the ABS sensor I would have had to buy a new one, but if they trash it should they pay for it? I'm a little up in the air about it.

  11. #11
    I think it depends on the shop and the circumstance.

    If it was a dealer at dealer rates, I'd expect them to fix it an no cost to me, because they should be familiar with vehicle and it's quirks. Who's say if part of the expense wasn't included win the original pricing or that they didn't make a mistake in how they went about their work? If they had advised me ahead of time that they might not be able to get it out I'd be more understanding.

    On the other hand if they discovered something else wrong during a repair. I'd expect to pay for that.

  12. #12
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    I hate confrontation......this is killing me.....I'm right there with your thoughts Mark.... There's other factors to consider here for me....small town, fewer choices, still need a good place for the FJ and GX, excellent referrals, specializes in off road, has several off road rigs and sand rails....no, he's never seen a VX before mine....has a newer younger guy working for him....maybe he did it?....don't want to get him in trouble.....think I'll accept that kuka happens, BUT call them and address how we're going to handle the DRIVER's side boot replacement...

    With our super DRY environment...would it be GOOD idea to pony up for the OEM boots if they're higher quality and "might" last longer in this low humidity?? (I'm talkin' LOW humidity...dining room table cracked after 4 months here, discovered yesterday wooden/bamboo pitcher & cups are all split...rubber dries out bad here...why I love 303 so much!)

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by VX KAT View Post
    I hate confrontation......this is killing me.....I'm right there with your thoughts Mark.... There's other factors to consider here for me....small town, fewer choices, still need a good place for the FJ and GX, excellent referrals, specializes in off road, has several off road rigs and sand rails....no, he's never seen a VX before mine....has a newer younger guy working for him....maybe he did it?....don't want to get him in trouble.....think I'll accept that kuka happens, BUT call them and address how we're going to handle the DRIVER's side boot replacement...

    With our super DRY environment...would it be GOOD idea to pony up for the OEM boots if they're higher quality and "might" last longer in this low humidity?? (I'm talkin' LOW humidity...dining room table cracked after 4 months here, discovered yesterday wooden/bamboo pitcher & cups are all split...rubber dries out bad here...why I love 303 so much!)
    Totally understand everything you said but I would request at least free labor to install the ABS sensor that should not have been touched during the original labor.

    As far as Isuzu boots if I was doing the labor personally and did not have any lift I would consider it definitely.

  14. #14
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    "... pony up for the OEM boots if they're higher quality and "might" last longer in this low humidity??"

    Better off asking that chemist guy that putz around yer house alla time.

    IIRC dry isn't the enemy of rubber. UV is.

  15. #15
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    Just talked to Merlin:
    Front inner boot x2 = $116.55
    Front outer boot x2 = $111.03

    Ouch.....

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