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Thread: Refinish Restorer, Mother's Headlight kit and 303 Protectant

  1. #16
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    Gear

    Quote Originally Posted by technocoy View Post
    I just wish there was a great UV sealer that would work now.
    I picked up a bottle of this (I think it was this - don't have it in front of me) at Auto Zone last weekend. They only had one bottle, right beside all the various headlight restoration products. I slathered it on my recently polished out headlights. We'll see if they stay shiney and clear longer than without the sealant.

    Click me

  2. #17
    According to the manufacturer:

    http://bluemagicusa.com/index.php/bl...t_lens_sealer/
    Headlight Lens Sealer

    * For new & restored lenses

    * Keeps lens clear & bright

    * Protects lens from UV rays

    * Seals out dirt & grime

    * Prevents yellowing & hazing
    This may be the Headlight Sunblock everyone has been looking for.

  3. #18
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    I used the Mother's a few weeks ago and it worked great. FYI, the faster or more powerful the drill the better your results will be. I initially tried it with a 12v Craftsman cordless and discovered it wasn't working very well. I went to a more powerful industrial corded one and then got the results I was looking for. An 18v cordless may be powerful enough,though. idk.
    I'll be trying the 303 next week in hopes it will last longer than the Back to Black I've been using for the past few years.
    Raider

  4. #19
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    I just picked up some of the BlueMagic Headlight Lens Sealer at my local AutoZone, $6.99. Going to apply it to all our other headlights, but still have to figure out what I'm going to do about my StonGard covers........keep or remove...keep or remove...keep or remove.....

    Quote Originally Posted by raider View Post
    I used the Mother's a few weeks ago and it worked great. FYI, the faster or more powerful the drill the better your results will be. I initially tried it with a 12v Craftsman cordless and discovered it wasn't working very well. I went to a more powerful industrial corded one and then got the results I was looking for. An 18v cordless may be powerful enough,though. idk.
    I'll be trying the 303 next week in hopes it will last longer than the Back to Black I've been using for the past few years.
    I think others found 303 basically washed off in the rain also, when it was on cladding. (On rubber, it's pretty long lasting).
    Here's some good posts on 303:
    http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...7&postcount=66

    http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...0&postcount=67

    http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...&postcount=125
    http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...&postcount=132
    VX KAT
    ....the adventure BEGINS ANEW! ...2015......
    Remember that life is not measured in the breaths you take, but rather in the moments that take your breath away.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by samneil2000 View Post
    I picked up a bottle of this (I think it was this - don't have it in front of me) at Auto Zone last weekend. They only had one bottle, right beside all the various headlight restoration products. I slathered it on my recently polished out headlights. We'll see if they stay shiney and clear longer than without the sealant.

    Click me
    Very interesting. I may go check out my local Autozone/Advance and see if they have this.

    Raider... I used my 18v drill and it definitely made easy work of it, but you are right, once you get the polish worked into the buffer you can really smooth em out quick.
    macintosh man

  6. #21
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    Really...some 2000 grit sand paper and careful rubbing will bring them almost all the way back. Then add your powerball and plastic polish for the final shine. Try it, it works. Did it on a VX from Atlanta, couldn't be any worse.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by blacksambo View Post
    Really...some 2000 grit sand paper and careful rubbing will bring them almost all the way back. Then add your powerball and plastic polish for the final shine. Try it, it works. Did it on a VX from Atlanta, couldn't be any worse.
    Hmmm, ironically that is what a product called "BrightEyes Headlight Restorer" uses per Step 1 of their instructions-- starting with 1000 grit sandpaper (wetsanding), and then graduating to 2000 grit sandpaper (wetsanding). Step 2 is to apply a clarifying agent, and finally Step 3 is to apply a protective clear coating. There is no use of a power drill or buffing pads with the product; everything is done by hand.

    The "BrightEyes Headlight Restorer" kit (for 1-vehicle) sells for $20 USD. See www.AutoCosmeticProducts.com. They are the same people that sell the GM-approved "TS-1" cladding restorer baby-wipes.

    RAIDER--- As VX-KAT indicated, the 303 product is best for rubber products like tires, not cladding. When used on cladding, the 303 product merely washes off during the first rain/car wash.

    "Refinish Restorer" is a topical cladding treatment, but has been known to produce a brittle varnish-like hard resin coating that may be subseptible to flaking/chipping when abrased by tree branches or from frontal debris and rock chips.

    "ShowRoom New Dye" is a colored dye for cladding available in 2 colors (Black, Gray). It is a staining/re-coloring dye and will alter the OEM color of the cladding.

    "TS-1" is a topical cladding restoration treatment that is GM-approved for the Chevy Avalanche cladding (just like VX cladding). It is essentially the same as using ArmorAll/Back-To-Black topical treatment products, but the "TS-1" will last 90 days (+/-) before retreatment is necessary. "TS-1" is applied using pre-treated disposable baby-wipes and comes in sealed pouches.

    Last edited by Riff Raff : 06/13/2011 at 11:09 PM Reason: ShowRoom New availability of colors.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Riff Raff View Post
    "ShowRoom New Dye" is a colored dye for our cladding and is available in 3 colors (Black, Charcoal/Dark Gray, Light Gray).
    Riff where'd you find reference to it in "Charcoal/Dark Gray"? The mfg website says it only comes in black and gray.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by VX KAT View Post
    Riff where'd you find reference to it in "Charcoal/Dark Gray"? The mfg website says it only comes in black and gray.
    Whoopsy, I thought I had read somewhere on this forum that 3 colors were available. However; after clearing the cobwebs, I now remember YOU had created a custom half-n-half mixture using both 1-part Black + 1-part Gray to create a Charcoal/Dark Gray mixture. My bad.


  10. #25
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    The person that sold me my VX gave me a bottle of 303. The cladding on mine looks immaculate. The guy said he used it once every couple months. It seems really great. I'll be using myself soon.

    As far as headlight resto goes, mine need it very badly. Should I try the Powerball? Is there any disassembly of the headlight lenses required to resto?
    "THEORETICALLY, STILL A TRUCK!"
    2001 VX
    Mods

    2008 HUMMER H3

  11. #26
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    Depends on where the damage is. Most crazing / scratches / hazing / yellowing are caused by oxidation on the exterior surface of the headlight, BUT if you have cracks or punctures in the seal you could also have condensation and other contaminants on the inside. Most VX's seem to develop the exterior issues over time, so I'd start by cleaning and polishing the exterior, then see where you are at that point.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by H3_VX View Post
    The person that sold me my VX gave me a bottle of 303. The cladding on mine looks immaculate. The guy said he used it once every couple months. It seems really great. I'll be using myself soon.

    As far as headlight resto goes, mine need it very badly. Should I try the Powerball? Is there any disassembly of the headlight lenses required to resto?
    RickOKC did some good testing of products on the cladding, one was 303, here's his post with the findings (post #19 above also listed it).
    Some of us think if you wipe the cladding dry as directed, AND let the 303 treated cladding sit overnight, less dust will be attracted to it, as it seems to dry a bit more and stick less. (303 will NOT be sticky at any point on your cladding.)
    http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...7&postcount=66
    http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...0&postcount=67

    No disassembly of headlight required, just put double to triple tape around the edges so you don't buff right through it and hit your paint. If you do wet sanding, the water mixture running down always caused my tape to want to come undone, but keep reapplying tape if you have too....it's too easy to have the drill jump and hit the paint. I bought the 3" wide painter's tape. I actually think DUCT tape would be better since it's stickier and thicker.

  13. #28
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    I wouldn't use duct tape on paint, it's way to sticky and will leave all kinds of hard to get off residue on the paint. Painter's tape is the way to go for automotive stuff.

  14. #29
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    Technocoy, all I can say is... I love you....

    My headlights are going to get extra special attention soon!
    Anita
    2000 Ebony #263
    Original Owner- love her too much to part with her.
    AnitaProtich.com

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by VX KAT View Post
    Riff where'd you find reference to it in "Charcoal/Dark Gray"? The mfg website says it only comes in black and gray.
    thanks for helping...

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