Refinish Restorer, Mother's Headlight kit and 303 Protectant

[VX KAT]

I just picked up some of the BlueMagic Headlight Lens Sealer at my local AutoZone, $6.99. Going to apply it to all our other headlights, but still have to figure out what I'm going to do about my StonGard covers........keep or remove...keep or remove...keep or remove.....

I used the Mother's a few weeks ago and it worked great. FYI, the faster or more powerful the drill the better your results will be. I initially tried it with a 12v Craftsman cordless and discovered it wasn't working very well. I went to a more powerful industrial corded one and then got the results I was looking for. An 18v cordless may be powerful enough,though. idk.
I'll be trying the 303 next week in hopes it will last longer than the Back to Black I've been using for the past few years.

I think others found 303 basically washed off in the rain also, when it was on cladding. (On rubber, it's pretty long lasting).
Here's some good posts on 303:
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...7&postcount=66

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...0&postcount=67

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...&postcount=125
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...&postcount=132

[blacksambo]

Really...some 2000 grit sand paper and careful rubbing will bring them almost all the way back. Then add your powerball and plastic polish for the final shine. Try it, it works. Did it on a VX from Atlanta, couldn't be any worse.

[Riff Raff]

Really...some 2000 grit sand paper and careful rubbing will bring them almost all the way back. Then add your powerball and plastic polish for the final shine. Try it, it works. Did it on a VX from Atlanta, couldn't be any worse.

Hmmm, ironically that is what a product called "BrightEyes Headlight Restorer" uses per Step 1 of their instructions-- starting with 1000 grit sandpaper (wetsanding), and then graduating to 2000 grit sandpaper (wetsanding). Step 2 is to apply a clarifying agent, and finally Step 3 is to apply a protective clear coating. There is no use of a power drill or buffing pads with the product; everything is done by hand.

The "BrightEyes Headlight Restorer" kit (for 1-vehicle) sells for $20 USD. See www.AutoCosmeticProducts.com. They are the same people that sell the GM-approved "TS-1" cladding restorer baby-wipes.

RAIDER--- As VX-KAT indicated, the 303 product is best for rubber products like tires, not cladding. When used on cladding, the 303 product merely washes off during the first rain/car wash.

"Refinish Restorer" is a topical cladding treatment, but has been known to produce a brittle varnish-like hard resin coating that may be subseptible to flaking/chipping when abrased by tree branches or from frontal debris and rock chips.

"ShowRoom New Dye" is a colored dye for cladding available in 2 colors (Black, Gray). It is a staining/re-coloring dye and will alter the OEM color of the cladding.

"TS-1" is a topical cladding restoration treatment that is GM-approved for the Chevy Avalanche cladding (just like VX cladding). It is essentially the same as using ArmorAll/Back-To-Black topical treatment products, but the "TS-1" will last 90 days (+/-) before retreatment is necessary. "TS-1" is applied using pre-treated disposable baby-wipes and comes in sealed pouches.

[VX KAT]

"ShowRoom New Dye" is a colored dye for our cladding and is available in 3 colors (Black, Charcoal/Dark Gray, Light Gray).

Riff where'd you find reference to it in "Charcoal/Dark Gray"? The mfg website says it only comes in black and gray.

[Riff Raff]

Riff where'd you find reference to it in "Charcoal/Dark Gray"? The mfg website says it only comes in black and gray.

Whoopsy, I thought I had read somewhere on this forum that 3 colors were available. However; after clearing the cobwebs, I now remember YOU had created a custom half-n-half mixture using both 1-part Black + 1-part Gray to create a Charcoal/Dark Gray mixture. My bad.

[H3_VX]

The person that sold me my VX gave me a bottle of 303. The cladding on mine looks immaculate. The guy said he used it once every couple months. It seems really great. I'll be using myself soon.

As far as headlight resto goes, mine need it very badly. Should I try the Powerball? Is there any disassembly of the headlight lenses required to resto?

[VXR]

Riff where'd you find reference to it in "Charcoal/Dark Gray"? The mfg website says it only comes in black and gray.

thanks for helping...

[TheGanzman]

Well, here's MY experience w/303. My 2001 VX is a two-owner, "high desert", garage-kept VX w/80K miles. Original owner used 303 on the cladding RELIGIOUSLY every 3-6 months; I've kept up that regimen over the 2.5 years I've owned it. Last Sunday I replaced the RR and Rear "underdoor" cladding with new (thanks, Merlin!) - I was VERY concerned about color differences between the existing cladding and the new cladding. There was ZERO difference between the two - you literally can NOT see a color/shading difference between the old and the new! Put me down as a serious proponent of 303...

[vt_maverick]

Depends on where the damage is. Most crazing / scratches / hazing / yellowing are caused by oxidation on the exterior surface of the headlight, BUT if you have cracks or punctures in the seal you could also have condensation and other contaminants on the inside. Most VX's seem to develop the exterior issues over time, so I'd start by cleaning and polishing the exterior, then see where you are at that point.

[Etfren]

I wouldn't use duct tape on paint, it's way to sticky and will leave all kinds of hard to get off residue on the paint. Painter's tape is the way to go for automotive stuff.

[RickOKC]

That's a great perspective, Ganz!

Earlier, somewhere here, I commented that I thought 303 treatment made my cladding look "new - although I had no real frame of reference." I dunno, to me it just makes it look "right" - dark & satiny, not greasy and shiny.

[H3_VX]

Just to follow up on the 303, I've used it twice so far and i've noticed some streaking once i'm finished. Am I not using enough? Am I not drying it quickly enough or drying too quickly? It does look sweet after I wipe it off, but then a few minutes later it has kind of a hazy look for a day or two. My cladding still loooks almost new, I just want to know if I should be applying it differently. FYI, I'm using Microfiber towels to wipe and dry. I usually use 3 for the entire job just so I'm not using a dirty towel. I also wash the entire car with a pressure washer beforehand.

[RickOKC]

Hard to say for sure, but I my first guess would be that water may be getting mixed in with the 303. I've experienced streaking with every product I've tried due to that. Now after I wash/dry, I'll let the VX sit for at least several hours before applying 303 - if it's cool outside, I'll even let it air dry overnight or for a day or two. This insures all the water evaporates out of the pesky recessed areas/cladding screws, etc.

Also, if you're using 3 microfiber towels for application, you may be wasting a lot of 303. I apply it with one 3"x3" to 4"x4" section of cloth cut out of bigger rags, old clothes, whatever is handy. Then I remove the excess with one of my old bath towels that has been relegated to "garage duty." Here's my full method:

* Wash/dry VX
* Let it sit & air dry completely
* Wipe off dust with a slightly damp terrycloth towel (if I let it dry for more than a few hours)
* Drench a small rag with 303 and apply liberally to one section (see below).
* While the rag is still damp, go over that section again to help even it out.
* Wait a few minutes and thoroughly buff off the 303 with a clean, dry terrycloth towel.
* Go to next section

I split up the cladding into 5 sections: entire right side, entire left side, front cladding, rear cladding, and finally half moon/door handles/etc.

The small applicator rag may look dirty as it cleans off places you missed during washing. Ignore it, it will still work out fine.

This has worked great and has consistently given me good results.

[H3_VX]

Hard to say for sure, but I my first guess would be that water may be getting mixed in with the 303. I've experienced streaking with every product I've tried due to that. Now after I wash/dry, I'll let the VX sit for at least several hours before applying 303 - if it's cool outside, I'll even let it air dry overnight or for a day or two. This insures all the water evaporates out of the pesky recessed areas/cladding screws, etc.

Also, if you're using 3 microfiber towels for application, you may be wasting a lot of 303. I apply it with one 3"x3" to 4"x4" section of cloth cut out of bigger rags, old clothes, whatever is handy. Then I remove the excess with one of my old bath towels that has been relegated to "garage duty." Here's my full method:

* Wash/dry VX
* Let it sit & air dry completely
* Wipe off dust with a slightly damp terrycloth towel (if I let it dry for more than a few hours)
* Drench a small rag with 303 and apply liberally to one section (see below).
* While the rag is still damp, go over that section again to help even it out.
* Wait a few minutes and thoroughly buff off the 303 with a clean, dry terrycloth towel.
* Go to next section

I split up the cladding into 5 sections: entire right side, entire left side, front cladding, rear cladding, and finally half moon/door handles/etc.

The small applicator rag may look dirty as it cleans off places you missed during washing. Ignore it, it will still work out fine.

This has worked great and has consistently given me good results.

awesome, thanks for taking the time to type this. i'll try next time around. so, you recommend a terrycloth towel?

[VX KAT]

Also, if you're using 3 microfiber towels for application, you may be wasting a lot of 303. I apply it with one 3"x3" to 4"x4" section of cloth cut out of bigger rags, old clothes, whatever is handy. Then I remove the excess with one of my old bath towels that has been relegated to "garage duty." Here's my full method:

* Drench a small rag with 303 and apply liberally to one section (see below).
* While the rag is still damp, go over that section again to help even it out.

The small applicator rag may look dirty as it cleans off places you missed during washing. Ignore it, it will still work out fine.

Absolutely agree with Rick...I use the corner "area" (maybe 3" x 4") of a small terry rag and just spray a few times.

Keep in mind I'm doing roof rack parts, not the cladding. You can get ALOT of mileage out of that damp section of rag. I use a rough terry towel cuz I'm using the rag to clean and rub off lots and LOTS of oxidation type crude off the plastic parts, so I need the rough texture.

After the cladding, use the damp area on your interior panels, dash, console, back seat, etc....

And also agree with Rick- you can use the rag area even after it's basically "black". I even continue to use the same area on the rag the next day after spritzing it with the 303 again.