I used the encased resistor from autozone, never had a problem...
I used the encased resistor from autozone, never had a problem...
I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
Thomas Jefferson
In my experience you (and I) bought the wrong resistors. Here's the more complete experience:
1) Ohms is backwards. You need a 3 Ohm resistor to flash two bulbs, not the 6 Ohm one. The 6 Ohm one only replaces one bulb, so it works on the backs but not the fronts.
2) You CAN buy special LED flashers, but keep in mind the ones you can find are limited to '35W', and they burst into flames if you use a LED flasher AND a resistor.
3) Make sure you use the TURN signal to test your flashers, since the hazard lights will often flash at the correct rate, even when the turn signals won't.
4) Bulbs get hot and will melt your cladding if you leave them dangling around. The resistors also can get hot. I recommend the models from VLEDS etc that are encased in their own heat sink, at the very least.
Thats another good point. Resistors resist current and shed excess energy off as heat. They are very inefficient and the excess heat should be dealt with in some way via heatsinks or just encasing the resistor. Granted, people dont typically run thier blinkers for long enough for the resistor to get overly hot but in the case of an extended hazard light session, it could pose a problem. Which is yet another reason for the more elegant if difficult solution, get the proper blinker fuse.
I see your reading this too Billy... sounds like I may go ahead and order the 3 Ohm resistors along with the correct backup light LEDs. I'll be back in town Friday and Saturday so maybe we can make a second run at it?
Talked to the V-LEDs guy on the phone earlier, he said we needed one 3 ohm resistor per side, not one 6 ohm resistor at each bulb.
They should be here for us to try on Friday.![]()
Dont have to order electronic flasher relays from ebay and wait. The are available at any parts store. Auto Zone has them for $10 that are LED compatible. Electronic ones use a timing circuit instead of amp draw so they dont care about the amperage as long as its not too high. You do lose the rapid flash thing that happens when a bulb burns out, but that happens with LED's and resistors on standard flashers as well.
Tridon/Turn Signal Flasher
Part Number: EP34
Alternate Part Number: FL34
--Dave
Very nice info Dave... that looks to be the ticket.
If anyone would actually take the time to read the V-LEDs article there is an easy way to modify the stock flasher to work perfectly with the LEDs and yet still give you a quick flash warning if one of the LEDs ever actually goes out.
Or as others have mentioned replace the flasher. It is super easy to replace just turn the flashers on and follow the sound with your hand until you locate the flasher then without removing your hand turn flashers off with free hand and remove.
Oh and yeah 2 x 3ohm resistors on the rear will do the trick as well that is what I have installed. That is why I was a little confused when you said you put resistors on the front.
OK, so just the 2 X 3ohm in the back will work and not them at all corners. I read the write up on the relay trick, but the area to get the relay on and off on our car is a pain for this old guy and I am only going to do it one time, not have to get down there and try several times till I get it right.lol.
I already did it several times... I made PLENTY of mistakes, but I seem to have found a steady-state, now. The one that finally worked for me was a 3 Ohm resistor (from VLEDs) screwed to the metal behind the tail lights. The resistor went across the bulb wires, NOT inline. On the drivers side, I had to mount the resistor behind the metal, or else the reflectors wouldn't fit back in place. The factory flasher then worked normally.
Total parts list:
2x 3ohm resistors (VLEDs LR_350) (back)
2x pirannah 1156 yellow towers (ddmtuning) (rear turn)
2x 1156 yellow (autolumination Matrix II? 321led) (front turn)
The DDM towers don't fit in the front turn signal sockets, which is why I went with the autolumination type instead. Otherwise, I do NOT recommend autolumination.
Other:
2x pirannah 1157 red towers (ddmtuning) (rear brake)
2x pirannah 1156 white towers (ddmtuning) (rear reverse)
4x 6k SMT 194 white (vleds 194_4_RB_W_6K) (horns and fogs)
Looks like you got it squared away but ya I second the 3 ohm resistors. On my gfs car we put 3 ohm resistors in the rear to compensate for front and rear leds. In the vx I think I would put them on the front turn signals. My resistors in the rear of the vx melted the zip ties holding them in place and ended up melting a small piece of the housing.