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Thread: My 85 SVO

  1. #46
    Member Since
    May 2010
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    1999 Ebony 1716
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    I didn't measure how much, but "a lot" seems about right! I'm going to put the factory wheels back on for now so I can drive it around at least. I bought a polishing kit from Eastwood that should be in soon, so I can at least polish the factory parts while I figure out what I'm doing with the brakes. I've been looking through Wilwood, but can't figure where they sell just a low profile caliper that will fit my factory parts and clear the wheels.

  2. #47
    Member Since
    Apr 2010
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    1999, Astral Silver, Vehicross, #1209
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    hhmm, some guys said they ground off up to 1/4" on the calipers to fit the wheels. switch to drums
    1999 Isuzu Vehicross-#1209- lots of mods - gone
    1995 Honda Passport: Lifted, Locked, 34x10.50's, just a few things..-Click for build thread

  3. #48
    Member Since
    May 2010
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    1999 Ebony 1716
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    Hell no! fkn drums are stone age tech, I'd rather drive daily on drag disks than drums. Just don't like them at all.

    I'll get the grinder again and take of a little more, I don't think I've removed 1/4" yet on the one spot that's grinding on both wheels. (It's the same spot on either caliper hitting the inside of the wheels)

  4. #49
    Member Since
    May 2010
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    1999 Ebony 1716
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    I got exhaust pipes in for a DIY at home job. I don't really know how it's gonna sound, I hope good!

    New 4" diameter flex pipe, then a Y w/ cutout, couple 45* bends and the race bullet that I polished. I don't know if I want to mount it to where the muffler shows outside the car or not... Might be better tucked under some.






    And yes, it is propped up in place with my old turbo housings! I didn't have anything else to do with them. :lmao:

    I'll be on vacation next week so plan is to get it trimmed to fit, one of the last 45* pipes needs a few inches taken off for the muffler to clear the back tire, or if I leave it all under the car then I won't need to trim any and just get them welded, then put a couple hangars on there and it's set. If I leave it under the car then I think I can probably use the holes in the floor board from the rear seat mounts and seatbelts to put a hangar for the muffler, then I'll want to put one near the end of the flex pipe as well.

  5. #50
    Member Since
    May 2010
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    1999 Ebony 1716
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    I think I may have a busted rear main seal now. I started it this morning after sitting for a while and after idle for a few minutes I crawled under it to find a MASSIVE amount of oit on the garage floor.


  6. #51
    Member Since
    Feb 2009
    Location
    1999,silver, 1516
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    ewwww

  7. #52
    Member Since
    Apr 2010
    Location
    1999, Astral Silver, Vehicross, #1209
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    That doesn't look like a surprise main seal leak, have you checked your turbo feed lines? That's alot of oil, was there a leak before?

  8. #53
    Member Since
    May 2010
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    1999 Ebony 1716
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    suprise main seal? No leak whatsoever before. In fact the last "leak" I had was the old turbo seals were leaking into the hotside causing it to smoke on heavy acceleration. Fixed that with a new turbo. What are the chances I might have damaged a gasket when I was testing last time before the new waste gate went on and over boosted? It was dry under the car for the 3 weeks it sat in the garage.

    Both oil lines are dry at the connection points. The feed line was a little oily in the middle where it runs close to the block, also the engine grounding cable that comes off the valve cover to the fire wall was pretty saturated with oil as well. Maybe a valve cover gasket?

    When I was crawling around under the car I noticed the oil seemed to be heaviest above the starter, near the back of the block where the transmission mounts to the engine. That's why I thought rear main seal. I'm hoping it's something simple like the valve cover gasket, as I need a reason to take that off and repaint it anyhow!

  9. #54
    Member Since
    May 2010
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    1999 Ebony 1716
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    I replaced the starter solenoid, had the starter tested at parts store, and checked all the cables to and from solenoid. Everything looked good, ran good, past test...


    I tried the multimeter on the solenoid and had my wife turn the key, got 12v at the positive battery post on the solenoid, got 11-10v on the post that leads to starter motor, and got 9v on the ignition post. I don't know if that test did any good at all, but that's all I know to do with it now. I even took the battery out of my truck and put in the SVO, and the SVO battery into the truck and the truck started fine. The SVO had the same symptoms as with the original battery in it. I'm completely lost now with no idea which way to go from here. Help please!

  10. #55
    Member Since
    May 2010
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    1999 Ebony 1716
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    FOUND IT! WOOHOO!

    The grounding strap from the bock to the firewall isn't doing it's job, I am thinking it must have gotten coated with oil and when cranking last time must have built some gunk under there and lost conntection somehow. I put a wire from a heder primary to the strap going to firewall and it cranked first try. I'm so happy!

    I also got to find the oil leak, there is a small hole in the turbo feed line that litterally SHOOTS oil out when running. New feed line on order now, and hopefully will be here by end of the week.

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