Thanks for the bump and update on this... looking forward to next one and fruition.
Thanks for the bump and update on this... looking forward to next one and fruition.
Another speed bump in the hitch design.
While doing the final fit check, I broke the hitch. Welder Guy just had it tack welded in place & I broke off one of the end plates. He's fixing it now & I hope to do the final fit check this Friday.
Will keep you posted.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Put a smiley after you say that Bub.
Hows it Lookin Tom?
He's got it ready for me to pick up on friday. Still just tack welded because it needs the final fit check. I'll have to mess with the gusset he added for strength as well. I'm sure it'll be hitting the cladding.
Hopefully the next rendition will be final.
Sorry it's taking so long but Welder Guy has been swamped & his shop is an hour away from me (usta work at the same place though ... much easier then).
I'll take a before & after pic of that gusset so you can see the tight tolerance Dub & I are talking about.
I've only dropped it twice so far ... & haven't broken it yet![]()
Tom - Probably should have mentioned this well before now, but do you think welder guy could pre-drill holes for a j-pin? We had a hitch installed on our Axiom and it came pre-drilled for one of these:
We took our hitch-mounted cargo box (which is infamous for rattling if you don't tighten it somehow) to Wisconsin and it was rock solid with this thing.
Here's a better explanation from eTrailer.com:
Draw-Tite's exclusive J-Pin ready receiver design allows for the most confident and secure hookup in today's towing market by compressing the hitch mounted accessory against the inner side wall of the hitch receiver tube. Once attached, the hitch and towing components seem virtually welded together.
Draw-Tite's J-Pin quickly and confidently secures ball mounts and other hitch mounted accessories, eliminating the sway and rattle caused by necessary part clearance issues.![]()
Ash,
It shouldn't be a problem. Can you get me a C/L to C/L between the two holes?
The only issue that I can see is that we are trying to keep the receiver as low profile as possible. The hole for the J-Hook may encroach on the end collar. Will keep you posted.
Tom
Would you only put ONE (1) new hole, on one side, or two (2), for the J-pin? Obviously one hole only allows pin to be installed in one direction. Would that ever be an issue?
When I went thru my mounting hell on the rear skid, I had to have my shop drill a 2nd hole in the receiver closer to the collar to be able to fit a locking pin with my skid. If WelderGuy places hole exactly as he did mine, there's room for another without hitting the collar.
I'm not really sure if the 2nd hole compromises the integrity of the hitch, but my guy felt there was still enough metal between the collar and 2nd hole to safely use the hitch, although I told him I'd NEVER be towing a trailer of any kind. Mr. Engineer Tom, what do you think?
~There's 28mm from the aft side of the original hole, to the beginning of the collar.
~I centered a 2nd hole (5/8" = 17mm) within that 28mm space, it left 5.5mm on each side.
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Last edited by VX KAT : 02/02/2012 at 09:49 AM
VX KAT
....the adventure BEGINS ANEW! ...2015......
Remember that life is not measured in the breaths you take, but rather in the moments that take your breath away.
OOORRRRR ...
Now I'm just thinkin outside the box right now so bear with me ...
I focus on getting the dang thing to fit & worry about all yer minutiae stuff later
Just kidding.
I'm kinda leaning towards just drill & tap a hole through the collar (on the under side) for a large set screw. Benefits: hidden (no extra holes), no compromise of strength, gives you your locking option for rattling hitches. Issues: Ya gotta carry an allen wrench with you to remove the hitch.
BTW, Welder Guy has already located the hole for the pin 1/2 inch farther outboard for youse people who really can't stand the idea of me getting any sleep so put on stoopid fiberglass bling stuff that gets in the way of using the hitch for what it's intended for.![]()
This is what I had done on my Tone hitch, but it didn't work as well as the J-pin. I think it may have had to do with the fact that with a bottom-mounted bolt you're trying to squeeze the accessory against the roof of the hitch, which is fighting against gravity, especially when your accessory is fully loaded. And I can tell you from experience it's much easier to tighten a bolt that goes in from the side (without the force of gravity pushing against you) than from underneath. Plus you don't have to get dirty.
So why does a second hole for the J-pin compromise strength more than a second hole for a bolt? Is it because they're on different walls?