It's 10 PM, do you know where your spring helpers are?

[Ldub]

Crap. My left bump stop rests on the axle & the right one has about 3/8" gap. I guess my spring helpers need new springs.

Try switching the rear coils L>R / R<L, if the gap switches sides, it's the coils.

If the gap remains on the same side, your torsion bars may need to be tweaked a bit...

[RickOKC]

Your spring helpers need helpers.

Are helper helpers also known as OME products?

Try switching the rear coils L>R / R<L, if the gap switches sides, it's the coils.

If the gap remains on the same side, your torsion bars may need to be tweaked a bit...

Dr Ldub, VX Surgeon - you're one smart feller! Thanks! Now that I've thought about it, this pre-dates my earlier t-bar crank when I raised the nose 1". I'd measured the gap between the cladding & wheels beforehand when I was deciding how much to raise the front and that right rear corner was higher than the left. I guess I should have taken the hint then.

[Ldub]

Dr Ldub, VX Surgeon - you're one smart feller! Thanks! Now that I've thought about it, this pre-dates my earlier t-bar crank when I raised the nose 1". I'd measured the gap between the cladding & wheels beforehand when I was deciding how much to raise the front and that right rear corner was higher than the left. I guess I should have taken the hint then.

FWIW, there are instructions in one of the factory manual DL's that outline the torsion bar leveling procedure in detail...we're talkin string lines & the whole deal...

A bit complicated, but if you REALLY want it to be by the book...

OTOH, I would trust a measurement from flat level concrete to the top of the wheel arch more than I would the gap meas.

Also, I usually give the drivers side about 1/2-3/4 turn extra tweak, to compensate a little for the usual 230 lb load on that side...