Powered sub's

[tom4bren]

Says the man with lightning bolts is his shorts...

I have no response to that.

Yes I know this, but the path would still go to the rear speakers. I'm looking at it from my experience, I never lost much if any off my interior speakers when i ran line-level converters off the rear speakers to run subs with a factory head unit.

I stand corrected then

Actually not - you just kinda proved my point. You either got lucky or were kinda picky & bought decent quality products. Did you ever make your purchase decision based upon input impedance?

Just rattlin yer cage now.

[RamAirZ]

I have no response to that.



I stand corrected then

Actually not - you just kinda proved my point. You either got lucky or were kinda picky & bought decent quality products. Did you ever make your purchase decision based upon input impedance?

Just rattlin yer cage now.

lol first what's this lightning bolt thing, second, yes. I always choose an amp and sub combo that will run at a certain impedance and power. I think the thing we need to know here is the impedance of the signal input on the amp when using the line-level converter or the inputs like on the Basslink. I'm sure the resistance is very high to not allow the power to actually funnel through. A typical set of Pioneer 6x9's has an 4-8ohm impedance.

[eternal21]

Only down side to that is you have to run wires through the loom in the door, but it is possible. Right now I have 2 pairs of 12ga speaker wire, a set of RCA cables and 2 16ga wires run through mine

How'd you get the RCAs through the door loom?

[tom4bren]

lol first what's this lightning bolt thing,

Never ever, ever piss of Zeus. He'll drop a lightning bolt down your shorts.

It's an old discussion we had about the power savings by converting to an electric fan. Comments about a 0.1% increase in throttle response come from that same discussion.

[etlsport]

How'd you get the RCAs through the door loom?

it sucked a whole lot! I pulled the two strands apart as far as possible so the connectors could be fed through one at a time. then i just inched them through. it makes it easier to remove both sides of the loom so you can pull it out a bit.

what i have done since then for additional speaker wire and such is get a 5-6" piece of thin wall pipe barely large enough for my wires to pass through and push that through the loom, feed the wires through the pipe then remove the pipe in the direction you fed the wires. this method is super easy, should work for an rca cable too

[RamAirZ]

Never ever, ever piss of Zeus. He'll drop a lightning bolt down your shorts.

It's an old discussion we had about the power savings by converting to an electric fan. Comments about a 0.1% increase in throttle response come from that same discussion.

ahh, makes sense now

[eternal21]

it sucked a whole lot! I pulled the two strands apart as far as possible so the connectors could be fed through one at a time. then i just inched them through. it makes it easier to remove both sides of the loom so you can pull it out a bit.

what i have done since then for additional speaker wire and such is get a 5-6" piece of thin wall pipe barely large enough for my wires to pass through and push that through the loom, feed the wires through the pipe then remove the pipe in the direction you fed the wires. this method is super easy, should work for an rca cable too

Thank you. I'd like to see if I can get 1 set of RCAs, 1 4G, and 4 pairs of 12g speaker wire through there....

[Bob Barker]

Sure you can, just spit on it first!


and on an up note for me: I was preparing the truck for the sub to get here tomorrow to make it a bit faster/easier by possibly removing the back plastics, or at least loosening both sides some. When I pulled the jack door and looked inside I could see the speaker wire excess from when I upgraded the rear speakers. Left about a foot or so of wire that loops out to juuuust enough that I could reach it and have enough to splice into, and passenger side was just the same! So no need to remove all the back seat plastic!!! Yay!

[Junster]

Somebody needs to make a fiberglass replacement for the rear door plastic. Then a sub could be easily mounted there. A 8" quality sub would be plenty of bump with a 250w amp.

[Grif]

Somebody needs to make a fiberglass replacement for the rear door plastic. Then a sub could be easily mounted there. A 8" quality sub would be plenty of bump with a 250w amp.

I have a 10 inch high excursion sub back in mine, mounted in an acoustic suspension (sealed) enclosure for tight, loud, not boomy bass. Used copious amounts of dacron filling (walmart) to stuff any gaps between the body, enclosure, and stock spare cover to dampen any unwanted resonance. Of course multiple holes were drilled in the spare tire cover in a circular pattern to allow the sub to speak. Then affixed some very high density foam packing rubber to space the the plastic spare cover from the enclosure and tighten the fit even more.

Its a very, very tight fit back in there, but it rocks very hard without any unwanted rattles or resonance. The entire interior was dampened with Dyna-mat Extreme by the PO.

Full disclosure, I did not design or mount the enclosure itself, tho I did contribute to it as loudspeaker design has been another hobby of mine since my college years.

The sub is driven by a two channel 700W amp, and the front and rear JBL 6.5 inch component speakers are driven by a 400W 4ch amp. Its all fed signal via an Eclipse head unit with its incredible 8v line level outputs. Power is distributed with a gold plated power block up front @ the battery using 10 and 8 gauge copper.

There are no massive capacitors, no signal converters, combiners, splitters or other such mojo. Its very straight forward, by the book. As such it works very, very well.

Its not a ghetto rattlebox. Its not meant to thump from a block away. From the outside it does not sound like its shaking every metal fitting on the vehicle apart. On the inside its amazing. All my friends who's tastes range from country to hip-hop to techno or blues ask to "hear it in the VX".

Thats good enuff for me.

[etlsport]

A sub mounted in the rear door is awesome. I have a rockford fosgate 12" stage 3 shallow mount in a sealed enclosure. Amp is mounted under the drivers seat so there is no real loss of storage space and with a metal cage over it I dont have to worry about cargo shifting and damaging it. And it will BOOM.. Think I got the sub on amazon for 99 bucks a while back, and built the enclosure myself and covered it in vinyl to give a clean look

[Gussie2000]

I never liked the idea of using the head unit to power the speakers and/or subs.

Instead i ran a entire new and high quality wiring and left untouched the factory wiring.

I purchase four good ( and expensive,though ) RCA wires to hook up the head unit to the digital EQ,then connected the amps with the EQ.
The results : better,quality sound.

Both,speakers and subs are all powered by the two four-channels amps,one for the speakers and the other exclusively for the subs (@ 4 ohms )
Thanks to the digital EQ I can squeeze better sound from the head unit instead of relaying only on the built-in EQ.

[Bob Barker]

So it's all installed and looking nice. The most pain was running the power line from battery to back. I LOVE the sound it's making and it's almost perfect. BUT I can't get it to stop that "popping" sound on higher/louder bass. I followed the instructions in the book to turn the dials until is sounds good and the servo light blinks but when I do get the light to just blink it makes a popping noise, so for now I've just turned it down to where it sounds best to me and doesn't pop, but does still BOOM very well! I'm still happy with it, but need some tuning tips if anyone has some to share.

It's mounted in the rear passenger side corner facing out to the drivers side corner.

Thanks peeps!

[Junster]

Bob, you went with the Infinity right? I think there are two hookups for input. If your using the leads to your rear speakers to provide the input you must use the inputs on the infinity that are for line signal. Otherwise you can goto a stereo shop and get a set of line converters. They convert line signal to a preamp level. I'm just guessing here of course but it sounds like you have line output going to a preamp type input.

[Bob Barker]

It's got inputs specific for line level jacks from the head unit and speaker level input that I spliced into the rear speakers to utilize. It's sounding better now, I think when I tried to tune it following the instructions I didn't have the head unit turned up enough to push the speaker into lighting up the servo light. It's blinking now with the beats when I've got it turned up enough to aggrivate the passengers!