Bob Barker 
It's built with an amp included in the unit. 200w yadda yadda yadda something or another.
Being an all in one package is what I wanted, it is something like a bazooka tube, but supposed to be better and takeup a little less space.
Super VXer
It's built with an amp included in the unit. 200w yadda yadda yadda something or another.
Being an all in one package is what I wanted, it is something like a bazooka tube, but supposed to be better and takeup a little less space.
Super VXer
Originally Posted by Bob Barker
Okie dokie
Dakar was just the begining.
Super VXer
Heyyyy! I bought one on Ebay for $80 bucks years ago (used)..just missing the base that I got for $15 bucks again on ebay...it sounded great!
There is one that you might get cheap here
Daniel
Super VXer
You won't be disappointed.
I had two bazookas over my span of car stereo enthusiasm and I can tell you they are much sloppier than the Infinity. It's much more precise and less "boomy" than the tubes. They are not as accurate since they attempt to amplify by bouncing it around.
I've been really close to having my spare cover modified a few times with space being so limited, but I can't bring my self to cut my baby up without knowing that there really would be a big benefit.
Do yourself a favor though and swap out your components too. You just won't be able to put the volume to the infinity with the stock paper crappers in there.
If not now, just as soon as you can afford it.
macintosh man
Super VXer
I've actually got the Polk Audio Dxi 6500 component speaker in the front doors and some poineer 6 1/2" 3way speakers in the back. I need/want a small amp for the front Polk speakers, but got this instead. Should work well enough with the factory head unit for my taste.
Super VXer
Thanks for the link, but I already ordered a new one. I've got a hang up about used electronics. I always like new. It's mostly because I have no knowledge of how to repair anything electronic if it were broken!
Super VXer
Ive looked at these Basslink units before for my other car. In the end the price/performance ratio was not up to par IMHO. They sound good but at the time I think they were selling new for about $400 or so which was far too much. Now you can get them much cheaper, so for a moderate system upgrade I'd say thumbs up.
Super VXer
For $400 I'd pass it up without question. But shipped (and 2 day free shipping) for under $180 it's a great upgrade! Heck that's cheaper than the front Polk speakers I did, and it will be easier to install as well!
Who here knows how much/what will be involved in wiring it to the factory head unit? Which from the factory stereo should I use for a signal wire to the sub, what gauge wire should I use for power? Any tips?
Super VXer
Its been a while but as i recall the Basslink has speaker level inputs as well as line level. So the easy way would be to tap your signal off of the rear speakers to the speaker level inputs of the Basslink. (and mind your polarity! essential!)
The *BEST* as in audiophile way would be to get your signal from the head unit line level outs if it has any. I'm not sure if the factory unit has any line level outs.
As far as the power cable goes, it prolly ok to just use what wiring is included in the package. Its not a huge amp as far as power consumption goes and the cable run is not far at all.
*edit*
Oh and dont bother with the cheap speaker level to line level converters that are out there. They get you no signal quality improvement at all and are only intended for use when the installation requires hooking speaker level outs to an amp that only has line level inputs. They work, but they dont work as well as hooking it up properly and for the extra money, they bring nothing to the quality of audio. In fact, they prolly degrade it further.
Last edited by Grif : 04/27/2011 at 10:01 PM
Super VXer
The Basslink should come with a wiring diagram for ya. Here's the owners manual:
http://manuals.harman.com/INF/CAR/Ow...sLink%20om.pdf
I think 8 gauge would be plenty for it, could probably get by with 10-12 gauge honestly. I have an MTX Thunderform in my truck with a built in amp and it came with wiring and I think its 10 gauge.
1999 Isuzu Vehicross-#1209- lots of mods - gone
1995 Honda Passport: Lifted, Locked, 34x10.50's, just a few things..-Click for build thread
Super VXer
your link is broken!
Thanks for the input on the signal wire from the back speakers. If that's all it needs then I'll have this thing done in no time!
Super VXer
go to inifinity's website and pull up the owners manual, I just copied the link from there
Super VXer
See attached .pdf file Bob.
Super VXer
Thanks Grif. One question, that shows I should use at least both rear speaker level inputs. I can't get away with just one speaker level input? It's a PITA to get to those rear speakers!
Super VXer
I know its a PITA to get to the rears. You could tap the fronts with nearly the same results tho, just a longer signal cable run. Fronts are easier to get to, but the cables will be harder to run.
It really is imperative to get inputs from both the left and right tho. Its just wrong to get all yer bass from just one channel. Even tho bass is largely non-directional, there are bass frequencies coming from both left and right channels that must be fed to the sub. Not only that your sub output would suffer by 50%, your front speakers will be imbalanced, interior phase of of the bass will be off, etc... its just wrong to try to feed it from one speaker level input. Don't even think about it.
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