Kat,
Here is what I was referring to when I mentioned a "sleeved" pin the other night.
Removing the sleeve, then inserting the pin from one side & the sleeve from the other, provides just enough increased clearance for me to get the pin into mine. (with the hole moved aft)
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OIC, Here all along I thought it was a real tow hitch receiver. Now from the pics with the rear cladding removed it's actually bolted to the body. I couldn't figure out how yall got it up so high. The one I put on my Dragon is a frame mounted receiver. I wouldn't be towing much with a body mounted hitch either. Sure looks a lot nicer tucked up there than mine does. However I have a 3 seater Polaris Jetski and a full size utility trailer I tow. Kinda have to have a frame mounted hitch. Wish there was was a plug avail for trailer lights. I hate cutting into the harness.
Junster If it don't looked fixed.. It ain't fixed.
Yes, actually Mav I've tried it both ways....but because with the skid in place, the pin has to go in at an angle..it doesn't work that way. So I thought, put it in first, then I could put the nut on after the skid is in place. The problem, I can't GET IT OFF without removing the skid.
Yesterday when I was fitting it/playing with it, while at Fastenal, I realized it IS equivalent to a locking pin...cuz you can't get that pin out without some major cutting of the skid, and fighting with the cladding as well, since it's so close.
Dub- I think you're saying with the sleeve removed, the skinner pin can be inserted at just a little bit of an angle and get through?
When you attach the lock barrel, is it touching your skid at all or does it just clear as well?
Can you give me a measurement...from the fore side of your 2nd hole, using the center of that hole as your horizontal marker, to where your cladding touches the tube?
I know cladding can be in different positions, but this would at least give me a ballpark.
Last edited by VX KAT : 04/21/2011 at 12:30 PM
VX KAT
....the adventure BEGINS ANEW! ...2015......
Remember that life is not measured in the breaths you take, but rather in the moments that take your breath away.
Junster,
Our hitches can handle the draw weight just fine. It's just tongue weight that is limited. In my discussions with Welder Guy yesterday, we decided that we will go ahead and try to fab up the frame to frame version that is hidden behind the rear cladding. As far as I can tell, this hitch will replace that little tube bumper we gots behind the cladding so it'll actuall make for a stronger rear end & give us all the tongue weight that the suspension can handle.
Gotta help Welder Guy out a little since he got laid off & his shop is his sole means of income now.
As far as trailer light wiring, I just made all my connections inside the VX and keep the wire coiled up in the jack cubby. When I need the trailer lights, I just run the wires out the back door.
Tom
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Put a smiley after you say that Bub.
I bought one of the boxes that isolated the trailer wiring and converts it. Just running the pigtail out the door will work as well as any other solution I guess not like I have something back there all the time. I wasn't dissin on the more hidden hitch. I like the look. Where the real problem can come is if someone pulls out in front of you and you have to slam the brakes. That's what damages regular bumpers. Hard to tell from the pics if the hidden hitch will standup to that or not. I've been with two different ppl when that happened. One guy bent the frame in his Ford pickup, the other twisted the front A-frames on his Dodge Cummins from the torque on the disk brakes.
Tom - Any idea how much this new super-Tone hitch will cost? I'd be willing to stake him...
That's one of several reasons I got a a"superbumper".....to have it take some of the force from a direct hit and absorb some of the impact forces transferred from the hitch to the frame....and then to our bodies/necks.
Thant and it "might" save the cladding and other parts back there in a low enough impact.
Although even with the best of planning, things don't always go as expected.......translation for some of the newer members...the jerk cabbie that hit me in January, missed, MISSED! the superbumper completely!
Reminds me, I was going to order the slightly larger one, like you have Tom. You still happy with the 24"?
Anybody want to buy my 18"....I'll bring it to Moab.....all nice and clean and conditioned by Kat!
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Junster,
I went out & tested it for you:
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...4&postcount=38
Actually that accident happened last year. No damage to the rear crossmember.
Not a clue till we design it. Mebbe I can hook up with him one day next week.
Yes I am. It suits me just fine. Of course the 72" version was actually my first choice.![]()
20.6248 mm...
Or about 13/16" iff'n yer a MerIkin (no, not a merkin...)
And yes, that's exactly what I'm saying...
It provides just enough angle to slide the pin in first, then slide the sleeve in from the other side. Nothing touches when locked in place.
Mine is different from the one I posted the pic of, mine looks like this:
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WOW, Tom4 if that hitch survived that without seriously damaging the body. Like I said WOW I'm very impressed.
Tom- I talked to Jeff Mohr today at superbumper.com. I think I'm going to order the 24" wide. It'll only stick out 3/8" more than the 18", so that's no biggie. Also got an email from him (kind of like a mini newsletter type deal, talks about the latest testimonials). Said only 14% of rear end collisions will MISS the superbumper....oh gee, aren't I in an exclusive club!![]()