Need ideas for a locking hitch pin WITH Ron skid in place

[vt_maverick]

Nope...as long as it's in the same vertical plain as the original orifice, you just move whichever accessory you're using back the same distance & install the pin...which now clears...

But isn't that moving the weight away from the rear cross-member by another inch or more? Wouldn't that increase the lean effect / decrease the maximum weight capacity of a hitch-mounted cargo box?

[vt_maverick]

For Junky... Fully installed with bent hitch pin. Sorry for the quality, my cell phone lens was blurry.

[VXjunky]

wonder if you could persuade this thing in place..... http://www.walmart.com/ip/Ventura-U-...ndingMethod=rr

[VXjunky]

have you mentioned your backup sensors in a thread....

[VX KAT]

Sue,

I can get Welder Guy to make you a new hitch with a longer tube if you want to go that route. I'll do a no cost swap with you so you'll only be out the cost/effort to swap them.

Lemme know.

Tom

BTW, of course that means that your SuperBumper will stick out about a 1/2 inch further.

How long do you think that would take, i.e. turnaround Tom? He could also modify that edge (that Dub tried to grind down when installing it for me), so the cladding tucks back down tight.

Shortest possible I'm guessing would be to make a new stinger that had a 1/2" hole cross drilled then thread the hole so a 1"x5/8 bolt could be screwed in to each side instead of a pin. You'd need only 1 1/2" max on each side and it would never rattle.

Reading back I guess this is kinda what EDL suggested.

What if you get a wild hair and buy a Jetski? Wahoooo..

We'd use Dave's FJ or my GX470. 5000 lb, 6500 lb rated respectively.

The fuel tank shield would take the first impact but that's pretty thin. The fuel tank would probably get punctured if the hitch pin fails if hit from the rear on the SuperBumper (that's why I cut about 1/2 inch off of mine).

I'm leaning more towards the external clip ring approach with the pin being made as short as possible. Sue may have trouble getting even that to engage properly considering the angle it would have to be at during insertion.

Dang I was hoping the pin didn't affect safety at all....

I always employ the KISS solution...

Drill a hole on either side, further aft of the original.

problem solved...

Then, for further protection, fill the old hole with a short gr8 bolt.

I've been leaning toward that too. Can could anybody drill new holes on the hitch tube while it's STILL on the truck?

a quick easy fix.....

get (2) nut/bolt/lock washer set-ups... probably need what, just over an inch in length?

I would install w/nut/lock washer to the inside using an open end wrench.

I'm sure you don't take the hitch on-off every day, so that wouldn't be too much of an aggravation, but it would do the trick.

p.s..... you could even get black hardware, so they would barely be noticable...

Hmmm.....I like that idea Dan.

~To solve that problem Tom, wouldn't a barrel connector (internally threaded connector like Eric said) work if I could get the other bolt to thread into it?

~Outside tube is 2 3/4", probably use 1 1/4" long bolts on each side, plus the connector.???

[etlsport]

But isn't that moving the weight away from the rear cross-member by another inch or more? Wouldn't that increase the lean effect / decrease the maximum weight capacity of a hitch-mounted cargo box?

the hitch pin supplies support in a horizontal plane for towing and in the case of the super bumper, an accident.

in the case of tongue weight or a cargo carrier, the hitch pin would act as a fulcrum, the load is taken by the bottom of the front of the receiver and the top of the rear of the receiver. Now that I'm thinking about it though, having two pins would eliminate that rotational movement, and put all of the weight on the two pins, similar to how the carrier contacts the receiver.

putting two pins might cause issues with the superbumper though, its has a slot instead of a hole, so two hitch pins would reduce the length of travel/absorption it has

[vt_maverick]

I can see how the two pins stop the vertical rotation, but it seems like you're still putting more weight farther away from the fulcrum. Kind of like wheel spacers which everyone seems to think are bad for the same reason - pushing weight farther away from the axle (or whatever you want to say).

[VX KAT]

wonder if you could persuade this thing in place..... http://www.walmart.com/ip/Ventura-U-...ndingMethod=rr

No, because of the top curve, that's why I was thinking a cable lock might work...it's flexible.

have you mentioned your backup sensors in a thread....

Yes,he has.

[etlsport]

I think it would depend on how it was done, if you use both pins (make a new hole in your cargo carrier) the weight doesnt move any further from the frame which is the concern. It would put more stress on the hitch itself, but thats never been an issue to my knowledge, the weight is transferred to the frame in the same manner

if you re-use the existing hole in the cargo carrier and just use 1 pin, you will definitely increase the distance from the frame and increase the twisting effect.

the reason i have a problem with wheel spacers is not the stress on the steering/suspension components, its the stress on the wheel studs. a spacer which lets the studs pass through creates two shear points on the studs, and moves the weight farther down the studs. a wheel spacer that bolts to the hub and has its own studs reduces this and is less harmful to the vehicle. but as far as wheels with low offset vs wheel spacers, the stress on the suspension and steering is the same

[tom4bren]

[QUOTE=VX KAT;226827]How long do you think that would take, i.e. turnaround Tom? He could also modify that edge (that Dub tried to grind down when installing it for me), so the cladding tucks back down tight.

Probably not long ... he's currently underemployed (trying to get his shop to be his sole income). I'll give him a call.

[Ldub]

But isn't that moving the weight away from the rear cross-member by another inch or more? Wouldn't that increase the lean effect / decrease the maximum weight capacity of a hitch-mounted cargo box?

I wasn't trying to mount a cargo box in my scenario...

If you want a cargo box, it should have wheels under it as God intended, be very short in the wheelbase dept., & also be nearly impossible (due to the short wheelbase) to maneuver in reverse...

A "ricer wing" is optional, for additional style points...

[tom4bren]

I wasn't trying to mount a cargo box in my scenario...

If you want a cargo box, it should have wheels under it as God intended, be very short in the wheelbase dept., & also be nearly impossible (due to the short wheelbase) to maneuver in reverse...

A "ricer wing" is optional, for additional style points...

And should take priority over such mundane things like painting your house.

[samneil2000]

I wasn't trying to mount a cargo box in my scenario...

If you want a cargo box, it should have wheels under it as God intended, be very short in the wheelbase dept., & also be nearly impossible (due to the short wheelbase) to maneuver in reverse...

A "ricer wing" is optional, for additional style points...

Needs more skullz

[vt_maverick]

I wasn't trying to mount a cargo box in my scenario...

If you want a cargo box, it should have wheels under it as God intended, be very short in the wheelbase dept., & also be nearly impossible (due to the short wheelbase) to maneuver in reverse...

A "ricer wing" is optional, for additional style points...

Lol, no doubt Dub...

[Ldub]

And should take priority over such mundane things like painting your house.

Well DUH...

In my defense, that's my X landlords idea of home maintenance...