Need ideas for a locking hitch pin WITH Ron skid in place

[vt_maverick]

True, VT if using just the cotterpins on both sides of the hitchpin as I described. However, I've seen some miniture padlocks at both HomeDepot & Lowes with skinny shank loops that might be able to wiggle thru the cotterpin hole of the chrome hitchpin. If you get two(2) minature padlocks sold as a pair that are "keyed alike", then you'd have a padlock on each side of the hitchpin using the same one key. I'm sure the right minature padlock is out there somewhere that would fit in those tight confines at the hitchpoint.

In that case that's the exact solution Sue and I discussed via PM. I might give this option a try, I've got two extra angled pins in the garage that would serve well for testing. Now to find the time.

[Mile High VX]

MH - I'm surprised that you couldn't get a locking hitch pin to work with your Tone hitch. I bought a run-of-the-mill Reese pin from Wal-Mart for $15 that worked with no problems.

The pin for the Thule is threaded on one end and their locking pin is just too long. Not much room there...

[vt_maverick]

Weird, my hitch sticks out further and the side pieces (sorry, not the greatest with terminology here) are rounded loops rather than flat steel with a hole drilled through them. I wonder if Tone changed his design mid-way through?

[Junster]

I noticed in pics before that her hitch is really tucked up in there. Did Tone build those or resell a existing part?

[tom4bren]

Luckly, Sue opted for the receiver without the safety chain hoops so that part won't be in her way.

I rekin the consensus is that any future hitches that Welder Guy makes should be about 1/2 inch longer tube with the hole commensurate.

[Ldub]

I always employ the KISS solution...

Drill a hole on either side, further aft of the original.

problem solved...

Then, for further protection, fill the old hole with a short gr8 bolt.

[Mile High VX]

I always employ the KISS solution...

Drill a hole on either side, further aft of the original.

problem solved...

Then, for further protection, fill the old hole with a short gr8 bolt.

Excellent idea...

[vt_maverick]

No concerns that two sets of holes weakens the receiver? Or is the grade 8 bolt intended to solve that problem (if it is one)?

[vt_maverick]

Also, doesn't that mean you'd have to drill new holes in anything that you mount in there?

[Ldub]

No concerns that two sets of holes weakens the receiver? Or is the grade 8 bolt intended to solve that problem (if it is one)?

Since Sue's application is primarily for impact protection, not towing, the bolt should suffice.

Also, I've done this mod to mine, for the very same reason, & strapped more than a few vehicles from my hitch location.
Having designed & built it myself, with ridiculous amounts of triangular gusseting incorporated into the build, I'm not too concerned with regard to strength...

Also, doesn't that mean you'd have to drill new holes in anything that you mount in there?

Nope...as long as it's in the same vertical plain as the original orifice, you just move whichever accessory you're using back the same distance & install the pin...which now clears...

[VXjunky]

shouldnt the skid plate have been rolled down and under at installation to better align with the indentation....almost looks like the door will hit the skid plate in your pictures...seems if the receiver was centered ...well you get the picture

[Ldub]

Skid plate actually slides down about another 1/2", I didn't have it completely seated when I took these pics.

[VXjunky]

thanks...im a.d.d

[Luna X]

a quick easy fix.....

get (2) nut/bolt/lock washer set-ups... probably need what, just over an inch in length?

I would install w/nut/lock washer to the inside using an open end wrench.

I'm sure you don't take the hitch on-off every day, so that wouldn't be too much of an aggravation, but it would do the trick.

p.s..... you could even get black hardware, so they would barely be noticable...

[tom4bren]

a quick easy fix.....

get (2) nut/bolt/lock washer set-ups... probably need what, just over an inch in length?

I would install w/nut/lock washer to the inside using an open end wrench.

I'm sure you don't take the hitch on-off every day, so that wouldn't be too much of an aggravation, but it would do the trick.

p.s..... you could even get black hardware, so they would barely be noticable...

If I understand your approach, you are semi-permanently installing the SuperBumper in the receiver with the hitch removed from the vehicle & then installing the hitch/SuperBumper. Izzat true?

If so, won't work for Sue's application.

1. SuperBumper must be allowed to slide within the receiver (that's what absorbs the impact in the case of a rear collision).

2. To properly install a SuperBumper, the rubber bump stops inside the tube will be pressing on the receiver pin (or in this case, the nut/bolts you mentioned). You wouldn't be able to get a wrench on it.