Originally Posted by VX KAT
Tom, think he could make it so the 4 mounting holes match up exactly, so we can just take off old, bolt new one on??
If he can, get him to start on it ASAP so it could get to me by 5/12
Do-able
1) the receiver tube could be made a little longer (maybe 1/2" -3/4"?)
Do-able
2) The edge (that Dub tried to grind down in pic below) could be made a little more recessed....or maybe the longer tube takes care of that automatically?
Do-able. He may even be able to locate stock with that edge already rounded. IIRC the stock that he used is common Lintle.
3) the hitch pin holes be moved away from the body (maybe 1/2"?)
Well Yeaaahh, ain't that what started all this PITA
4) Have WelderGuy make the lip/edge that encircles the end of the receiver a little less prominent.
Actually, he could leave that off entirely. We talked about that originally and decided to include it just because it's industry standard. Deleting that would make the build much easier (he said that was the biggest PITA on the fab.
5) my rear cladding would then be able to snug up tightly, and therefore, the bottom cladding screws will "probably" line up...
Fingers crossed; prayers answered; & Zeus don't drop any lightning bolts down our shorts
6) so I can then install the rear skid using those 4 holes w/o any modification like a bridge
See comment above
7) And then MAYBE use a conventional hitch pin lock (that's 6" wide, 7" when unlocked)???
Refer back to same comment above
Larry & I chatted about it tonight a bit. Just drilling a second hole further aft as he suggests sure sounds like the easiest solution.
Sounds like the KISS solution but I'm still willing to do the replacement hitch if you wish.
~There's 28mm from the aft side of the hole, to the beginning of the collar.
~If I center a 2nd hole (5/8" = 17mm) within that 28mm space, it leaves 5.5mm on each side.
~The new hole will be about 24mm on center away from the first hole.
~Is that safe enough?
It is
~Can I bias it a few mm's closer to the collar? (wanting to max the space I have to fit the hitch locking pin?)
Yes, you can go right up the the collar. You may need to grind down the collar so that the bulky part of the lock will clear
~Could I make a smaller hole to get it a little closer to the collar? and find a skinnier hitch pin? Or do the shear forces change too much for the worse?
I'd stick with the same size pin for the sake of the SuperBumper functionality. If you ever take a hard hit on the SuperBumper, that pin will take a lot of impact
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