Need ideas for a locking hitch pin WITH Ron skid in place

[VX KAT]

[QUOTE=tom4bren;226841]

How long do you think that would take, i.e. turnaround Tom? He could also modify that edge (that Dub tried to grind down when installing it for me), so the cladding tucks back down tight.

Probably not long ... he's currently underemployed (trying to get his shop to be his sole income). I'll give him a call.

Even though patience is definitely not my strongest trait , I'm kinda sorta leanin' this way, as my better judgement is telling me this is the best way to go in the long run. Whattya y'all think?

Tom, think he could make it so the 4 mounting holes match up exactly, so we can just take off old, bolt new one on??
If he can, get him to start on it ASAP so it could get to me by 5/12

1) the receiver tube could be made a little longer (maybe 1/2" -3/4"?)
2) The edge (that Dub tried to grind down in pic below) could be made a little more recessed....or maybe the longer tube takes care of that automatically?
3) the hitch pin holes be moved away from the body (maybe 1/2"?)
4) Have WelderGuy make the lip/edge that encircles the end of the receiver a little less prominent.
5) my rear cladding would then be able to snug up tightly, and therefore, the bottom cladding screws will "probably" line up...
6) so I can then install the rear skid using those 4 holes w/o any modification like a bridge
7) And then MAYBE use a conventional hitch pin lock (that's 6" wide, 7" when unlocked)???
(or at the very least the MasterLock 1480DAT which is 5 7/16" wide)

[Ldub]

3) the hitch pin holes be moved away from the body (maybe 1/2"?)

I'd go more like 3/4-1" aft if possible.

Because of the angle of the cladding/skid plate, you don't gain as much room as it would appear.

[VX KAT]

Good point, I see what you mean.

Think I'm being pretty rationale now going for a new hitch??

[Ldub]

Think I'm being pretty rationale now going for a new hitch??

You already know what I'd do...