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Thread: Need ideas for a locking hitch pin WITH Ron skid in place

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  1. #1
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    MH - I'm surprised that you couldn't get a locking hitch pin to work with your Tone hitch. I bought a run-of-the-mill Reese pin from Wal-Mart for $15 that worked with no problems.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by vt_maverick View Post
    MH - I'm surprised that you couldn't get a locking hitch pin to work with your Tone hitch. I bought a run-of-the-mill Reese pin from Wal-Mart for $15 that worked with no problems.
    The pin for the Thule is threaded on one end and their locking pin is just too long. Not much room there...

    Live, Love, Forgive and Never Give Up

  3. #3
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    Weird, my hitch sticks out further and the side pieces (sorry, not the greatest with terminology here) are rounded loops rather than flat steel with a hole drilled through them. I wonder if Tone changed his design mid-way through?

  4. #4
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    I noticed in pics before that her hitch is really tucked up in there. Did Tone build those or resell a existing part?
    Junster If it don't looked fixed.. It ain't fixed.

  5. #5
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    Luckly, Sue opted for the receiver without the safety chain hoops so that part won't be in her way.

    I rekin the consensus is that any future hitches that Welder Guy makes should be about 1/2 inch longer tube with the hole commensurate.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  6. #6
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    I always employ the KISS solution...

    Drill a hole on either side, further aft of the original.

    problem solved...

    Then, for further protection, fill the old hole with a short gr8 bolt.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub View Post
    I always employ the KISS solution...

    Drill a hole on either side, further aft of the original.

    problem solved...

    Then, for further protection, fill the old hole with a short gr8 bolt.
    Excellent idea...

  8. #8
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    No concerns that two sets of holes weakens the receiver? Or is the grade 8 bolt intended to solve that problem (if it is one)?

  9. #9
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    Also, doesn't that mean you'd have to drill new holes in anything that you mount in there?

  10. #10
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    Wrench

    Quote Originally Posted by vt_maverick View Post
    No concerns that two sets of holes weakens the receiver? Or is the grade 8 bolt intended to solve that problem (if it is one)?
    Since Sue's application is primarily for impact protection, not towing, the bolt should suffice.

    Also, I've done this mod to mine, for the very same reason, & strapped more than a few vehicles from my hitch location.
    Having designed & built it myself, with ridiculous amounts of triangular gusseting incorporated into the build, I'm not too concerned with regard to strength...

    Quote Originally Posted by vt_maverick View Post
    Also, doesn't that mean you'd have to drill new holes in anything that you mount in there?
    Nope...as long as it's in the same vertical plain as the original orifice, you just move whichever accessory you're using back the same distance & install the pin...which now clears...

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub View Post
    Nope...as long as it's in the same vertical plain as the original orifice, you just move whichever accessory you're using back the same distance & install the pin...which now clears...
    But isn't that moving the weight away from the rear cross-member by another inch or more? Wouldn't that increase the lean effect / decrease the maximum weight capacity of a hitch-mounted cargo box?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by vt_maverick View Post
    But isn't that moving the weight away from the rear cross-member by another inch or more? Wouldn't that increase the lean effect / decrease the maximum weight capacity of a hitch-mounted cargo box?
    the hitch pin supplies support in a horizontal plane for towing and in the case of the super bumper, an accident.

    in the case of tongue weight or a cargo carrier, the hitch pin would act as a fulcrum, the load is taken by the bottom of the front of the receiver and the top of the rear of the receiver. Now that I'm thinking about it though, having two pins would eliminate that rotational movement, and put all of the weight on the two pins, similar to how the carrier contacts the receiver.

    putting two pins might cause issues with the superbumper though, its has a slot instead of a hole, so two hitch pins would reduce the length of travel/absorption it has


    "Engineers believe if it ain't broke, it doesn't have enough features yet"

  13. #13
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    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by vt_maverick View Post
    But isn't that moving the weight away from the rear cross-member by another inch or more? Wouldn't that increase the lean effect / decrease the maximum weight capacity of a hitch-mounted cargo box?
    I wasn't trying to mount a cargo box in my scenario...

    If you want a cargo box, it should have wheels under it as God intended, be very short in the wheelbase dept., & also be nearly impossible (due to the short wheelbase) to maneuver in reverse...

    A "ricer wing" is optional, for additional style points...


  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub View Post
    I wasn't trying to mount a cargo box in my scenario...

    If you want a cargo box, it should have wheels under it as God intended, be very short in the wheelbase dept., & also be nearly impossible (due to the short wheelbase) to maneuver in reverse...

    A "ricer wing" is optional, for additional style points...

    And should take priority over such mundane things like painting your house.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub View Post
    I wasn't trying to mount a cargo box in my scenario...

    If you want a cargo box, it should have wheels under it as God intended, be very short in the wheelbase dept., & also be nearly impossible (due to the short wheelbase) to maneuver in reverse...

    A "ricer wing" is optional, for additional style points...
    Needs more skullz

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