steering links

[tom4bren]

That crossmember isn't a structural piece anyways so the only thing that would come from it not being in is possibly banging the front diff on something.

Sorta-kinda.

The only thing the crossmember does is stiffen the frame slightly. Probably the only thing you'd notice is some slightly increased body roll in HARD cornering.

[Bob Barker]

10-4 copy that. I'll have it modified tonight and back on tomorrow afternoon.

[RamAirZ]

can't wait to see it John!

[Bob Barker]

I'm at work now and fixing to go finish the cross member. Here are some shots of what we did with the brackets, and the newly painted front axle.




Painted them with some rustoleum Safety Red. I like it! It isn't quite so extreme under the truck. Looks really loud in these photos.


I also painted the front axle housing and the cross memeber, which I'll share when I'm done with it tonight.


And then get some pics if it all in place under the truck, along with the CV joint angles.

[Bob Barker]

Oh, and the test drive earlier today and to work tonight went great. The vibration is 90% gone that I was getting between 25 and 30mph, and the BRRrrrrr that used to happen at highway speed deceleration is completely gone. World of difference. I'm so proud of my little moon buggy I may go ahead and order the wheels and tires I've been putting off for months now!

[RamAirZ]

DO IT!!!!!!! We'll have to go wheeling when I come down And Tom, have you noticed how the bolts aren't very tight in those crossmember holes (they wobble a good bit when not tight), if it strengthens it at all it can't be much at all, I doubt you'd notice much more body roll honestly. Maybe we should test it! I think it was just meant as a skidplate. But hey, opinions are like a-holes lol.

[Bob Barker]

Driving around I honestly can't notice any difference without it. But I haven't been pushing it around any corners. I tend to drive like and old oriental tourist in the Disney area with gas prices the way they are.

And I agree with that about the bolts having wiggle room. I would think that if it were to privide much structural strength then there would be bushings or thicker metal at the mounting points. Either way it's going back on, brigt safety red and all! And if it were ment as a skid plate for the diff then it's gonna be better than factory, we used 1/4" 304 stainless for filling in material in the brackets and where I cut out the cross member we welded the same in place there. MUCH thicker than factory metal.

[RamAirZ]

:thumbsup:

[Bob Barker]

I got it cut out, and all the bolt holes line up without touching the differential, BUT, there is less than 1/16" clearance between the bottom of the diff and the cross member. And the input yoke to the back of the diff only clears the cross member by about 1/2" or less in one spot. Should I worry about it contacting?

My own thought are the diff won't move any since the mounts are solid. But I have been wrong before. What do the experts say?

[RamAirZ]

The diff shouldn't move and the only time it would possibly contact is if you bang the crossmember on a rock and bend it upwards

[Bob Barker]

Shibby! I'll repaint and install this afternoon.

[tom4bren]

Glad it all worked out for you.

It doesn't look like you ground the weld line on the diff brackets. I'm suprised the axle housing bolted up for you. I would have thought that the welds would have caused the CV outer races to rub the diff bracket.

[RamAirZ]

I was wondering that too but if it worked, awesome!

[Marlin]

You don't need to remove the steering linkage to drop the differential. I know the guides say you do but you can get the diff brackets in & out with the steering linkage on. I did a 2" diff drop last month and worked around the steering linkage. Good luck, the whole project was a pita but worth it.

X2!!!!!!! I never broke the steering out of the truck either, just shifted the diff around and turned the steering wheel as needed.

[tom4bren]

I was wondering that too but if it worked, awesome!

See, I told you I wasn't losing my mind