quick question, does the popper fire when you "lock" the doors on the "door console"?
Now, I think I understand what your saying. I'm definatlly with you on being electrically challenged, but I am very computer literate, specifically internet literate (btw, I can fax you a copy of the diagram if you have access to a fax machine just pm the number). Here are my thoughts, when I look at the wire diagram there is a "UNLOCK" RED/BLK wire coming from the "ANTI-Theft & Keyless entry control unit" From here it hooks into the "UNLOCK" RED/BLK coming from the driver side "door console". Assuming this wire is what actually activates a unlock when you depress the key fob either once or twice, then wouldn't the following work.
1. Cut both LT GRN/BLK wires from the relay and splice them together.
2. hook the solenoid to the original actuator GRN/BLK wire on the relay (shown as the bottom GRN/BLK wire on the diagram)
3. hook a new wire onto the "UNLOCK" RED/BLK wire coming from the "ANTI-Theft & Keyless entry control unit" and connect it to the other cut LT GRN/BLK wire on the relay (shown as the top GRN/BLK wire on the diagram)
You'd probably need to make sure and put a diode on this new wire so the keyless fob click only went to the relay. Ofcourse I'm not sure about this since I'm not positive a diode is what is needed.
So, Following these steps you would basically be removing the "door console" completely from the relay and tieing the keyless fob directly into the relay. And since the relay is already setup to only fire on a second click you shouldn't have to mess with the ORG wire.
This ofcourse assumes that the "UNLOCK" RED/BLK wire from the "Anti-theft & keyless control unit" is what actually sends the power to unlock the doors on a fob press.
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