Omega - along with being electrically challenged - I'm computer challenged as well! Don't know how to modify his diagram (couldn't even pull it up ) But I'll describe to you what I did, and what I'm thinking of doing. If you have a wiring diagram for the VX, it should be easy to follow:

Starting at the fuse block, I wired in the hot wire to go to the remote button in the glove box. On the other side of this switch, the lead goes out and behind the dash, then down the driver's side under the scuff panel and behind the rear side panels to the gate. Then through the rubber boot to the solenoid in the door. That's the easy part per Tone's instructions. Here's the mod:

Where the wire from the remote switch passes the relay behind the left kick panel, I spliced into it and hooked it into the relay on the side that actuates on the second press of the remote button. I took the lt grn/blk wire that was originally attached here and spliced it into the other lt grn/blk wire that was going into the relay.

From looking at the wiring diagram, it appears to me (but remember, I'm "challenged") that the relay works like this: power is fed to the relay constantly by a lt grn/wht wire, when you press the remote button, power is sent along an orange wire from the anti-theft processor to that relay, making a connection between the always hot lt grn/wht wire and the first lt grn/blk wire to open the drivers door. A second pulse through the orange wire, trips the relay to the second postion, openning the pass door (or popper in my case).

I'm certain that the problem is that current is naturally flowing both ways through all these wires when the various buttons and remotes are used, causing my problems. A simple diode alone to regulate the flow of electricity in only one direction won't do the trick, because pressing one of the door switches will send voltage back through that relay the same direction as the remote needs to and pop the trunk as it does now.

Here are my two thoughts (both untried and unendorsed so far by my brother-in-law mentioned in an above post):
1) Cut both lt grn/blk wires off the relay and attach them to the orange wire going into the relay, I think this would allow them to both intercept the "pulse" along the orange wire and unlock. This would still require a diode on the lt grn/blk wires before they intercept the orange wire, so as not to send current backwards through the relay when the door switch is pressed.
2) Buy another relay, hook up the lt grn/wht power wire and the orange pulse wire to both (with a diode to prevent backwards power flow), and hook the popper to the second press outlet of the second relay. The first relay would remain in place and both doors would be attached to the first press outlet of that relay.

Number two sounds more workable to me right now - I'm trying to get a second relay to try it out.