Here's what gary had to say about my above comments.

Hey raquesthomas, somthing that might help you out, is that he said he did use a "relay with a clamping diode inside", maybe thats why he isn't blowing fuses and you were. Also, has your brother in law had time to take a look yet?

-------------------
Gary's Message
-------------------
You're going through the exact mental gymnastics I did. And your solution
seems so simple.I thought so, too, till I looked closer.

Problem is, the passenger door control relay is a normally CLOSED relay,
and the system inhibits the passenger door unlock (first press of the fob
button) by OPENING the secondary contacts of the relay. Wiring it your way
would result in constant power to the unlock solenoid. So, the only solution
is to use the pulse signal from the Left Front Door Power Window and Lock
Switch as the secondary power supply to the relay. And live with the door
unlock switches popping the hatch.
You're right, you need to splice the two light grn/black wires together, but
you have to keep the supply side wire (top one in the diagram) connected to
the relay and use the bottom wire (cut end closest the relay) to supplyrelay with a clamping diode inside,
power to your popper relay.
That's how I did it, anyway. I couldn't figure a better way, at all. And I
did it without isolation diodes, and haven't had any problems. I used a
though, to prevent spikes on the primary
side from reaching the solid state window and lock switch.
Good Luck, Gary