Installing fiberglass type skid plates -need ADVICE/HELP!

[ron]

hey VX KAT...

Hardware was dropped off at the USPO this afternoon. You should be receiving the package within a few days. Let me know if you didn't get it after a week. Thanks.

ron

[ron]

waaaaaaaaaaa!

Ron, I wish you made those plates again!! They are beautiful

To tell you the truth, I had been thinking about resurrecting the skidplates again. But not too sure about the demand for them right now with the economy and all.

Unfortunately my vacuum-forming vendor shop went belly up and destroyed the molds for the plates. I would have to have another set machined out if I was to seriously consider bringing these back up in the market again. Not certain if I'll take the plunge as I don't have a VX anymore..yet. ron

[rsteinmetz70112]

vacuum-forming vendor shop went belly up and destroyed the molds for the plates.

That's odd, if you paid to have the forms made, didn't you own them?

[RabidPony]

And even if not, why on Earth would they just destroy them?

[VX KAT]

OK, my plan of attack for the rear skid is to measure the distance between the skid hole and the cladding screw hole.

~If it's a relatively small distance, drill the hole a little larger in the skid to try to match it up, but not so large that the washer fits through. I found some really large flat rubber washers 2.5" across that might help in that scenario.

~If distance is pretty big, need to make a metal "bridge". A skinny flat piece of metal with a hole in each end. Connect cladding to hole closest to truck, connect skid to the other hole.

~All using grade 8 hardware, and aluminum or something stainless steel for the bridge.

~Dub and Ron did I get that basically correct as you told me?

~Any precautions if I do have to drill the skid plate hole larger? It's ABS....will it shatter or crack etc??

~Also realize there's no way in he!! I can get a locking pin on the hitch w/o some major surgery on the skid. So think I've seen some regular pins that will fit if I want to run with my superbumper on. Any other ideas?

~Would it be OK to just put a wire nut on each loose end of wires for the fogs I cut off, and tuck them up behind the cladding?

[ron]

OK, my plan of attack for the rear skid is to measure the distance between the skid hole and the cladding screw hole.

~If it's a relatively small distance, drill the hole a little larger in the skid to try to match it up, but not so large that the washer fits through. I found some really large flat rubber washers 2.5" across that might help in that scenario.

~If distance is pretty big, need to make a metal "bridge". A skinny flat piece of metal with a hole in each end. Connect cladding to hole closest to truck, connect skid to the other hole.

~All using grade 8 hardware, and aluminum or something stainless steel for the bridge.

~Dub and Ron did I get that basically correct as you told me?

~Any precautions if I do have to drill the skid plate hole larger? It's ABS....will it shatter or crack etc??

~Also realize there's no way in he!! I can get a locking pin on the hitch w/o some major surgery on the skid. So think I've seen some regular pins that will fit if I want to run with my superbumper on. Any other ideas?

~Would it be OK to just put a wire nut on each loose end of wires for the fogs I cut off, and tuck them up behind the cladding?

Not certain why you would need a bridge to connect the screws tot he cladding hole. You may just need to take off more material from the top edge of the slot to allow the plate to slide further down the hitch and line up the holes. The slot was based on Tone's hitch which I'm not sure if that's what you have or not.

ABS will not crack unless you run over it or something. You can drill it, sand it, file it, and machine it if you have to.

I was able to put a non-locking pin in it. I suggest placing the plate in place, installing the pin, then installing the screws from plate to cladding. HTH. ron

[ron]

vacuum-forming vendor shop went belly up and destroyed the molds for the plates.

That's odd, if you paid to have the forms made, didn't you own them?

Yes, I owned the molds. However, I haven't been in touch with them for over 6 months and when I went there, they were already closed down and the owner skipped town. I could not find his contact info anywhere. I'm only assuming he destroyed them unless he's using it as a coffee table stand or something.

[VX KAT]

[QUOTE=VX KAT;224529]
REAR SKID:
When my hitch was installed, we weren't able to get the rear cladding tucked back snug along the bottom, and therefore, couldn't get three cladding screws down there re-inserted.
It appears, that's exactly where this skid attaches to.

Not certain why you would need a bridge to connect the screws tot he cladding hole. You may just need to take off more material from the top edge of the slot to allow the plate to slide further down the hitch and line up the holes. The slot was based on Tone's hitch which I'm not sure if that's what you have or not.

The background is...My hitch is a "replica" of the original Tone hitch, made by a welder guy that a member here uses. It's pretty close to the Tone specs, but may be a tad off here and there. I know the lip/edge that goes around the opening is a bit larger. See blue text highlighted above.
I just took a look, and the holes and cladding aren't too far off, so making the cladding hole a little larger may be all that's needed to line up all three items (skid, cladding and hole).

[ron]

[QUOTE=VX KAT;224742]

REAR SKID:
When my hitch was installed, we weren't able to get the rear cladding tucked back snug along the bottom, and therefore, couldn't get three cladding screws down there re-inserted.
It appears, that's exactly where this skid attaches to.





The background is...My hitch is a "replica" of the original Tone hitch, made by a welder guy that a member here uses. It's pretty close to the Tone specs, but may be a tad off here and there. I know the lip/edge that goes around the opening is a bit larger. See blue text highlighted above.
I just took a look, and the holes and cladding aren't too far off, so making the cladding hole a little larger may be all that's needed to line up all three items (skid, cladding and hole).

You can always files an elongated hole or slot in the direction of the cladding hole with a small rat tail file. It's quick and easy with the abs plate. But making a larger hole with a bigger drill bit will work also as long as you can still utilize the washers I've sent you. Good luck. ron

[Luna X]

Those bottom screws go into the not-so-strong rear reinforcement.

If you have one, or can get a hold of a slide hammer with a hook, you could pull the bottom out that 1/2" or whatever is needed to get all holes to line up.

That way there would be no enlarging or drilling of any holes in the bumper cover or your newly painted skid plate.

[Ldub]

~All using grade 8 hardware,

Good gawd Suzee...

You're not mounting a machine gun...

Plain ol' stainless hardware will be plenty sturdy...

[Ldub]

Those bottom screws go into the not-so-strong rear reinforcement.

If you have one, or can get a hold of a slide hammer with a hook, you could pull the bottom out that 1/2" or whatever is needed to get all holes to line up.

That way there would be no enlarging or drilling of any holes in the bumper cover or your newly painted skid plate.

That's a great idea, wish I'd thought of it at the time.

Though I don't have a slide hammer, I think that a bit of muscle applied in the right direction to a wrecking bar, would tweak that thang into submission...

[VX KAT]

[QUOTE=VX KAT;224712]

~All using grade 8 hardware, and aluminum or something stainless steel for the bridge.

Good gawd Suzee...

You're not mounting a machine gun...

Plain ol' stainless hardware will be plenty sturdy...

I thought grade 8 was s.s and vice versa.......and hey, yuz never know, I might need to mount something from my arsenal!! Remember my alias...Beretta Kat!

Never heard of a slide hammer before. Like that idea instead of drilling or filing down the skid or cladding...

Luna you say "not so strong" rear reinforcement.....Since the skid will be basically hanging on the hitch, wouldn't that mean those lower mounting points will be supporting less...and therefore strong "enough"??

May need to put at least 2 more screws on the rear skid and into the cladding, at about the 9 and 3 o'clock position on the plate. Doesn't look like it will be very flush with the cladding otherwise. But I'd need to remove the rear cladding for that. Oh joy...
*** I have an idea....I bring my rear skid and we have a stoop party about
Thursday eve and I bribe some fellow VXers to install it.....

[Triathlete]

I'll bring the sawzall and torch! Woohoo...this will be fun!

[MSHardeman]

WOOHOO!!! Wrenching at the stoop.

I have a bunch of wrenching pictures...maybe I should put a little album together. The Red Rocks parking lot has probably seen more wrenching than most shops.