zinc drilled and slotted rotors

[LittleBeast]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/part-finder...4011&carId=009

[soggybottomboyz]

Thanks everyone. Do I need the hub bearing tool if I am just replacing the brakes & rotors and not the bearings? I need the brakes now, was hoping to do the bearings in the fall?

[tom4bren]

IIRC, the bearings get service by default when replacing the rotors. I'll have to read the instructions to verify but the bearings should be either press fit or machine fit to the hub of the rotor.

[MSHardeman]

You will need the hub tool to remove the nut holding the rotor onto the spindle. You will also need it for re-assembly, as well as a scale to determine pre-load on the nut so that you don't crank the nut down too much and bind the rotor up which would result in HORRIBLE gas milage.

The bearings literally just drop into the rotor. No pressing necessary. There is a seal that goes in behind the bearing at the back of the rotor, but the front one is held in when you sandwich the whole assembly back together.

I would strongly suggest reading this: http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...bearing+repack It gives a step by step how-to on replacing the front rotors and repacking the bearings. There is a link in that thread to a how-to over on "The Planet" and that write up lists the tools and expendables that you will need to do the job right.

[soggybottomboyz]

I picked up 4 zinc plated drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic brakes for $150 off ebay. Napa had two grades of bearings the best set will cost me $255 for the bearings, races and seals. I hope misc. should be around $50 (grease, cleaner, rtv sealer, etc). A buddy of mine has access to a bearing press to install the bearings into the hubs. Looks like every thing is falling together for this project to happen in a couple weeks.

Question: Do I really need a fishing scale to neasure the pre-load for hub nut or will a torque wrench get the job done?

Thanks all for the help,

Soggy

[Gussie2000]

I picked up 4 zinc plated drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic brakes for $150 off ebay. Napa had two grades of bearings the best set will cost me $255 for the bearings, races and seals. I hope misc. should be around $50 (grease, cleaner, rtv sealer, etc). A buddy of mine has access to a bearing press to install the bearings into the hubs. Looks like every thing is falling together for this project to happen in a couple weeks.

Question: Do I really need a fishing scale to neasure the pre-load for hub nut or will a torque wrench get the job done?

Thanks all for the help,

Soggy

Probably no,however for torque specs go check the VX repair manual,you can either print it or burn it into a CD,downloaded to flash drive/SD card if you got a lap top to carry it with you while working on the horse.

[MSHardeman]

You'll need some kind of scale to determine pre-load. A torque wrench will just get the nut tight, but not be able to tell you how much force it takes to rotate the hub. I was a little confused about that part too, but now that I've done it a couple of times it makes sense. You use the spring scale to pull the rotor around to make sure that the hub nut is tight, but not too tight. Too loose and things could move around killing the bearings (or some other catastrophic failure), and too tight will kill your gas mileage.

Also, you don't need a bearing press. The bearings just drop in and are held in place once everything is tightened down. To get the bearing seal in at the back of the rotor I just used a 2x4 laid flat across the seal and then gave it a good whack with a rubber mallet. Seats the seal in nicely.