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Thread: "Showroom New" Trim Restorer- info & experience

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  1. #1
    Member Since
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    Ok boys and girls. Used marlins method. Just washed clean. Foam brush applicator.

    The first coat I already mentioned looked terrible. I kinda expected that from what had been posted already.

    If I had to do it again I would use the smallest bristle brush I could find (did this during the second coat) for around the lights and trim. I have a buddy that paints houses for a living. And by default he had taught me how to "feather" a brush. Pinpoint accuracy no need for masking anything. And it would be nearly impossible to see those brush strokes unless you were on your knee's looking in the light holes.

    Once the trim is done. Its was like Kat said really about technique. Long steady brush stokes. "blending" into previous coating. Probably part of the reason my first coat looked so horrible. I ignored Kat's and Marlin's applicator recommendations and choose one foam brush that was to big and one that was to small. My Bad.

    Problem area's for me where behind the cow catcher. And the rear gate door. In hindsight Kats covered sponge suggestion would have made doing these areas much simpler.

    Results after second coat:

    There are really two measurements here. The first being improvement from current appearance. The second being what I would consider perfect.

    The improvement from start is very significant. There are some application lines still visiable. But few and far between and from 6' or beyond none visable at all. Really you would have to be at arms length in the right light to notice. It has been cloudy all day. I reserve the right to edit that at a later time. Overall much better than I expected for a second coat. And 100% improvement from the gray patch work that I started with.

    Score from perfect. Its difficult to score this. I would need to get into my "wayback machine" to a point where I had not seen if before I coated. I would say I am 80% of what I would call Ideal.

    Notes:
    I used uncut black
    Used slightly over one bottle. Just a couple of cap-fulls gone from the second.
    I allowed a full day between coats.
    2, 1/2 hrs first coat. 1, 1/2 hrs second coat

    What I would do differently:
    Try Kats sponge
    Completely do trim first with small painters brush. To feather: press the brush flat sliding it left or right. (practice first)
    Do it indoors (first coat was difficult with changing light and wind).
    Maybe cut it with something to make coats less thick.
    There are several stages to the drying. Just walk away and quit looking at it.

    Questions for those who have gone before me. Will spot touch ups blend or be obvious? Has anybody tried an extremely fine sand paper to get out the few visible strokes I have left.

    Oh and yes Kat I did read all of your posts several times. I'm am partly lazy and partly pressed for time. Its my daily drive and I don't have a garage to use. Don't you dare think I am not incredibly appreciative of the work you've done, The information you shared. You inspired me to do this. Thank you.

    And Marlin thank you. Your tips were both accurate and helpful.

    Right now I am kinda on the fence about a third coat. I dont want to bugger it up. It really looks pretty good the way it is.
    Last edited by bssage : 04/15/2013 at 04:05 PM

  2. #2
    Member Since
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    I thought of another thing I may have done different, I didn't really paint in any kind of pattern, meaning, I did not OCD brush stroke it on. I just kind of painted as I went, and as I said before smeared it on". I didn't like being crouched for long periods of time, so I minimized any chance for symmetrical brush streaks. Think of it like painting a cammo pattern, hard to see obvious brush streaks if they are dispersed throughout in a random NON OCD fashion I took a look today, zero streaks and a handful of pin stripes from trees and whatnot.
    Don't worry Sue, I wasn't really offended, just pointing out that I think some are trying to treat this a paint on chemical, but it isn't paint and shouldn't be treated like paint. I am happy with mine, and I spent a minimal amount of time on the project, leaving time for extremely important work (enter marlinstein bumper, herculining the hood/fenders

    I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
    Thomas Jefferson

  3. #3
    Member Since
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    Quote Originally Posted by bssage View Post

    Questions for those who have gone before me. Will spot touch ups blend or be obvious? Has anybody tried an extremely fine sand paper to get out the few visible strokes I have left.
    Glad to hear it's going better!

    My fab shop really scracthed up my cladding when they were making/installing my tail light guards. They'd scratched it deep enough beyond where the Showroom New dye had penetrated. I touched it up with a small foam paint brush and it blended perfectly. I applied a second coat trying to reapply approx the same "level" of dye as I originally had there. Pic isn't the best, but can see it blended just fine.

    I've also touched up a few areas after I got some trail rash, and it blends right in that scenario also. (Doesn't completely hide the scratch, but greatly reduces how noticeable it is.

    VXorado touched up some severe scratches, here's his thread:
    http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...tched+showroom





    VX KAT
    ....the adventure BEGINS ANEW! ...2015......
    Remember that life is not measured in the breaths you take, but rather in the moments that take your breath away.

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