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Thread: "Showroom New" Trim Restorer- info & experience

  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by VX KAT View Post

    I'd also like to do the hood insert.....it still has R/R on it, although it's peeling on the leading edge. I did find the dye seemed to penetrate the R/R in a few areas it still remained on the cladding.
    I fail to understand why people (admittedly myself at times) are tempted to treat the hood insert with the same plastic treatments we apply to our cladding.

    The hood insert is entirely different material. It is traditional matte black auto paint, not solid raw molded polypropylene (sp?) like our cladding is. The dyes and refinishes designed for our plastic cladding are not appropriate imho, for the surface paint of the hood insert. Simply because they are similar colors does not mean they should be treated the same.


    BTW: I pulled the trigger on two bottles of black dye. Your trail rash pics sold me Kat.

    I intend on cleaning my cladding with denatured alcohol, wait till it evaporates, then dye. Walmart has some terrycloth coated sponge applicators similar to what you used. I may or may not top it off with the last of my R/R if I decide it needs a touch of gloss, but we shall see!?
    Last edited by Grif : 03/17/2011 at 08:43 PM Reason: Added info

  2. #47
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    This treatment looks easy enough for me to do but I want my cladding to be a flat olive-drab greyish color. How is this achieved without the texture of Line-X?

  3. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grif View Post
    I fail to understand why people (admittedly myself at times) are tempted to treat the hood insert with the same plastic treatments we apply to our cladding.

    The hood insert is entirely different material. It is traditional matte black auto paint, not solid raw molded polypropylene (sp?) like our cladding is. The dyes and refinishes designed for our plastic cladding are not appropriate imho, for the surface paint of the hood insert. Simply because they are similar colors does not mean they should be treated the same.


    BTW: I pulled the trigger on two bottles of black dye. Your trail rash pics sold me Kat.

    I intend on cleaning my cladding with denatured alcohol, wait till it evaporates, then dye. Walmart has some terrycloth coated sponge applicators similar to what you used. I may or may not top it off with the last of my R/R if I decide it needs a touch of gloss, but we shall see!?
    Yeah, I see your point...I guess we kind of have a tendency to just "think" of it as another piece of cladding because of the color, like you said. Although mine is definitely a lighter color, not a black, not even a dark charcoal color, so maybe mine was treated/painted/coated with something to make it that lighter color, like I believe my cladding was.

    I found the darker charcoal cladding looked fine with the insert as is. I think I'll leave it alone for now. Let the R/R continue to peel off.

    I also noticed in the bright sun, (vs the overcast sky when I took the pics) the cladding does have a slight sheen to it, not shiny, but definitely a little satin/sheen. I liked it!

    Follow Up observation...I was on several dirt roads today and after I got home, I again noticed the cladding had a little less dust/dirt than before. There's still some there, but it's definitely "less". Why, I don't know....

    I bought a little 5 oz glass jar with a rubber seal at the hobby store for my mixture. It has very little air space in the jar and hopefully won't dry up and will be useable for quite some time.

    As I was out and about all day today driving around, every time I came walking up the truck, I was so happy with the color. Kinda embarassing how such a stupid little thing can make one so happy...
    And you know what they say...."if momma ain't happy, aint nobody happy"!
    VX KAT
    ....the adventure BEGINS ANEW! ...2015......
    Remember that life is not measured in the breaths you take, but rather in the moments that take your breath away.

  4. #49
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    Showroom new product Review

    Hi Guys, I ordered 3 bottles of this product two weeks ago for 53$ shipped. I applied this thursday with assistance from my girlfriend and my father. We used a foam roller and foam brushes as per the instructions. The original color for our VXs is full BLACK, not a mixture. It dries a lighter matte black than the color it looks as it goes on.

    I have to say that I DO NOT RECOMMEND this product to anyone looking to have a professional looking bumper restoration DONE WITHOUT SPRAYING.

    After using this I have the following reservations:
    -This may be sold as a dye, but it is really a PAINT. It goes on like a paint, it streaks like a paint and it dries like a paint. It may have dye like properties - but it cannot really be classified as a "dye."
    -This stuff cannot be applied to the VX bumper without streaking. Foam brushes should NOT be used - the foam roller will put the paint/dye on OK but because of the heavy curves of our cladding, it must be used along with brushes around the edges and the bolts/lights and this will result in some ugly looking borders.
    -The product may be of high enough quality that it can be used to cover our cladding, but it MUST be sprayed (thinned according to the instructions) for an EVEN coating. Using rollers and brushes is a really horrible way of doing this.
    -The product is NOT GAS PROOF... yeah, well this was probably obvious, but it really delineates the difference between a dye and a paint. On my way back to MN from Virginia today, my girlfriend overfilled the tank and had gas streaking down the cladding. She went to blot with a paper towel and to my surprise it came off full of black - the paint was coming off - something I wouldn't suspect a dye to do.



    -THE MIRROR AND ROOF RAILS/SPOILER CAN BE DONE, BUT IT GOES ON COMPLETELY AS PAINT ON THESE PLASTICS. They aren't porous and the brush strokes on the mirror holder/door part look really horrible. You may be able to spray this plastic, but I reccommend a real plastic paint, or base/clear for these parts

    -DO NOT TRY ON THE HOOD INSERT. This really shows the quality of the dye/paint as it goes on blotchy, streaky and looks like a 2$ walmart paint quart.


    _____
    For the price of buying a sprayer/thinner and the SN, buy gatorback. Aerosolized sprays will go on MUCH nicer than anything put on by a brush.

    I can post pictures if people are interested, but I just got back from a 22 hour drive and I'm going to bed.

  5. #50
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    Oh no, I'm so sorry to hear that! Have you done a 2nd (or 3rd) coat yet? It definitely gets much better after the 2nd and 3rd light coating. Oddly, even though it says it dries completely in like 2 hrs or so, I found it looked better on day 2 and day 3 (no kidding)....

    Spraying would definitely give a more uniform application, I just wasn't skilled enough to attempt it. I did succeed to be streak free in many areas, especially when I used the sponge covered in terry cloth as an applicator. But I've got to add I got the back door and bumper completely streak free with the foam brush, and again with the the terry covered sponge. I didn't have the issue around the edges of the lights.

    I didn't try it on the mirrors or the hood insert....definitely won't do it now.

    Doesn't gasoline have similar properties/components to turpentine and mineral spirits, which you can use to clean up this stuff? So isn't that why it came off on the paper towel?

    Would really like to see some pics of what you've described. Sure hope another coat improves it for you.
    Last edited by VX KAT : 03/19/2011 at 11:57 PM

  6. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by atilla_the_fun View Post
    Hi Guys, I ordered 3 bottles of this product two weeks ago for 53$ shipped. I applied this thursday with assistance from my girlfriend and my father. We used a foam roller and foam brushes as per the instructions. The original color for our VXs is full BLACK, not a mixture. It dries a lighter matte black than the color it looks as it goes on.

    I have to say that I DO NOT RECOMMEND this product to anyone looking to have a professional looking bumper restoration DONE WITHOUT SPRAYING.

    After using this I have the following reservations:
    -This may be sold as a dye, but it is really a PAINT. It goes on like a paint, it streaks like a paint and it dries like a paint. It may have dye like properties - but it cannot really be classified as a "dye."
    -This stuff cannot be applied to the VX bumper without streaking. Foam brushes should NOT be used - the foam roller will put the paint/dye on OK but because of the heavy curves of our cladding, it must be used along with brushes around the edges and the bolts/lights and this will result in some ugly looking borders.
    -The product may be of high enough quality that it can be used to cover our cladding, but it MUST be sprayed (thinned according to the instructions) for an EVEN coating. Using rollers and brushes is a really horrible way of doing this.
    -The product is NOT GAS PROOF... yeah, well this was probably obvious, but it really delineates the difference between a dye and a paint. On my way back to MN from Virginia today, my girlfriend overfilled the tank and had gas streaking down the cladding. She went to blot with a paper towel and to my surprise it came off full of black - the paint was coming off - something I wouldn't suspect a dye to do.



    -THE MIRROR AND ROOF RAILS/SPOILER CAN BE DONE, BUT IT GOES ON COMPLETELY AS PAINT ON THESE PLASTICS. They aren't porous and the brush strokes on the mirror holder/door part look really horrible. You may be able to spray this plastic, but I reccommend a real plastic paint, or base/clear for these parts

    -DO NOT TRY ON THE HOOD INSERT. This really shows the quality of the dye/paint as it goes on blotchy, streaky and looks like a 2$ walmart paint quart.


    _____
    For the price of buying a sprayer/thinner and the SN, buy gatorback. Aerosolized sprays will go on MUCH nicer than anything put on by a brush.

    I can post pictures if people are interested, but I just got back from a 22 hour drive and I'm going to bed.
    FINALLY!!! I'm definitely not happy that your results weren't as expected, but I do feel slightly vindicated now, as far as my support for GB. I didn't want to say it earlier, but a true dye product is something that the cladding would have had to be dunked into and let to sit, while the dye stains it... not a roll on or spray on application. it is mearly another top coat, just like GB, only difference is that for a few extra bucks and alot less work, GB comes out perfect. When I sprayed it on, i coud actually see and hear it bubbling, bonding to the cladding. and after only 1 coat, it looked amazing. after the second coat, it looked flawless. i also did my mirrors, which now look like they did in '99. I didn't do the roof rack because it was the end of the season, and was getting windy, so i didn't really want to risk it going everywhere else, not to mention that i did it at work, in between appointments, so time was kinda limited. with that said, the cladding came out flawless. I really recommend trying it.

  7. #52
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    It worked well for me, wasn't the easiest to get a perfect finish. I was the guinea pig, and it took me 3 coats to find the best applicator. and then ......I decided I wanted it a tad darker....thus application #4.

    What's great is now other VXers have two more excellent choices for their cladding!

  8. #53
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    I have nothing to say..................................
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  9. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luna X View Post
    I have nothing to say..................................
    yup, just wait until you see mine in person Dan.....

  10. #55
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    bottom line sue....if youre happy...aint that what its about....and judging by the smiles you attest to...walking up on your girl all day...seems momma be happy

  11. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by VXjunky View Post
    bottom line sue....if youre happy...aint that what its about....and judging by the smiles you attest to...walking up on your girl all day...seems momma be happy
    Yup! Momma be a happy camper!
    I'm on to my next mod.....

  12. #57
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    Ok, got my two bottles of "Showroom New" black, and even a spare bottle of 3M (bondo) "Restore Black" dye as a backup, plus at least one or two applications of R/R left in my big tub of R/R.

    BTW: reviews of the "Restore Black" 3M product on this site indicate much the same results as the other dye products. I frankly am thinking all dye products are essentially the same, and require multiple coats and patience to set in and careful application.

    So Kat... before I proceed. Final thoughts on applying "Showroom New"? Applicators, technique , prep beforehand? My cladding is in generally good shape, not too faded, but some nasty trail rash. Want to get black, not shiny, just mask the rash get an even color and remove some moderate fading.

    The plan so far is wash traditionally, prep with denatured alchohol (which I find is a great cladding cleaner) and apply the dye(s) lightly in three or four coats, 8 hours time to set tween coats, using a terry coated foam pad.

    Got a prob with that? hehe

  13. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grif View Post
    Ok, got my two bottles of "Showroom New" black, and even a spare bottle of 3M (bondo) "Restore Black" dye as a backup, plus at least one or two applications of R/R left in my big tub of R/R.

    BTW: reviews of the "Restore Black" 3M product on this site indicate much the same results as the other dye products. I frankly am thinking all dye products are essentially the same, and require multiple coats and patience to set in and careful application.

    So Kat... before I proceed. Final thoughts on applying "Showroom New"? Applicators, technique , prep beforehand? My cladding is in generally good shape, not too faded, but some nasty trail rash. Want to get black, not shiny, just mask the rash get an even color and remove some moderate fading.

    The plan so far is wash traditionally, prep with denatured alchohol (which I find is a great cladding cleaner) and apply the dye(s) lightly in three or four coats, 8 hours time to set tween coats, using a terry coated foam pad.

    Got a prob with that? hehe
    Sounds perfect. I did notice the prep instructions said to wash plastic with soap....was surprised it wasn't more involved. But I'd do what you outlined with the denatured alcohol.

    ~Plan on only doing no more than 2 ft at a time.

    ~I just dipped the CORNER of the square sponge pad with terry cloth, got about 1/2" - 3/4" of dye on that corner.

    ~Splotched/dabbed it on a few places of my intended work area, than started doing the wiping with the pad.

    ~As the sponge absorbs more and more dye, you can press/squeeze on it harder with your fingers to discharge more dye while you are applying it.

    ~After you get the wettest part applied, (after just a few strokes) then use progressively lighter pressure to kind of smooth the product.

    ~when it's wet, it can look very streaky.....wait it out until it's dry for a day or so.

    ~it definitely surface dries faster in warmer weather.

    ~A big mistake I made was to keep wiping and wiping trying to get it perfect....the product ends up drying out by doing that and then you can't get it smoothed out. That's what went wrong on my front driver's corner.

    ~Plan your stroke pattern ahead of time on the front corners.

    ~Don't try to stretch the product- HUGE MISTAKE, makes it dry even faster.

    ~It comes off the paint really pretty easy, so don't freak if you get some on. I used a vinyl eraser for some spots that were a little tougher and didn't "scratch off" with my nail.

    ~I have 4 coats on, 3 was actually better...aim for 3.

    ~With that in mind, if you see an area drying too much and you still want to smooth it out, dip the sponge again, add more dye and try it again.

    ~Yes, you can add fresh dye onto wet area you just did. It's like a 2nd coat.
    May want to go a little heavy with it over the trail rash areas.

    ~I did it sitting on a rolling stool, was perfect level and allowed me to do wide swipes on the door panels particularly, so I swiped from front door edge to rear door edge, as straight across as I could.

    If you find the sponge terry cloth thing isn't putting enough product on, maybe try a foam brush for coat 1 or 2, it will put more product on than the terry sponge.

    It is definitely not a shiny product AT ALL, it's has a little bit of sheen in sun, but not much.

    Take pics!

    Wish Atilla would post some pics or give some more input.

    Good luck!

  14. #59
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    Try it yet Grif?

  15. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by VX KAT View Post
    Try it yet Grif?
    Sadly, not yet. I had told my friends that my intentions for the weekend were to "F@#$ off and dye" lol... But the dye portion of that never happened, we f@#$ed off and had a BBQ.

    Instead I replaced my interior driver side door panel with a much nicer one, did some audio stuff and reseated some gimpy cladding (which really needed to be done).

    Next time I have have a good solid 2-3 days, (since 2-3 coats and 8 hr cure time) the dye job is on the list. Thanks for asking, and I know you want PICS!!

    hehe

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