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Thread: Tone hitch install

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  1. #1
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    That wasn't aimed at you exclusively BD, I've read that comment many, many times from other members when describing their process for trimming their cladding.

  2. #2
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    I used a box cutter to cut my cladding. I felt that I had better control that way. You should see some of the results of my Dremel cuts

    Yes, the tube bumper should be removed to cut the center section out. It'll only take a couple of minutes & will make the cut MUCH easier.

    I didn't do the wiring when I did the hitch install because I just leave it coiled in the jack stowage compartment when not in use. I just run it out under the door when I need it.

    Go out and purchase a new drill bit for your install. It'll cut an hour off of the install time from my experience.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for all the tips and help.

    It's been a challenge, but I'm almost done and will post a pic of the finished product later in the week.

    A few issues that came up:

    I broke all but one of the Christmas tree holders. In addition, where these mount to the inside of the cladding one of the holder housings broke off. Anyone know what type of adhesive works on our plastic cladding so I can reattach this?





    The holes on the hitch did not line up with the holes in the frame so I had to drill all of the holes. In additon, the holes in the backplate were too high for the holes that I drilled in the front so I had to redrill those as well. I mounted the hitch as high up as it would go and still the backplate just didn't line up...

    Cutting the cladding was a breeze and it mounts right up with a good clean finish.

    Thanks again for the help.
    Last edited by Mile High VX : 12/20/2010 at 02:38 PM
    Live, Love, Forgive and Never Give Up

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mile High VX View Post
    The holes on the hitch did not line up with the holes in the frame so I had to drill all of the holes. In additon, the holes in the backplate were too high for the holes that I drilled in the front so I had to redrill those as well. I mounted the hitch as high up as it would go and still the backplate just didn't line up
    I used a piece of notebook paper and made a heavy crease fold (90 degree) and l put half behind the frame and half on top with the crease snug on the corner. I then felt for, and rubbed through the paper the holes on the backside of the frame. I marked with a pencil the top edge of the paper. I then refolded the paper, so the dimples rubbed in the back now draped over the front, lining the top edge up with the pencil mark and the fold snug with the top front frame corner. Drilled the center of the dimples = perfect alignment.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mile High VX View Post
    The holes on the hitch did not line up with the holes in the frame so I had to drill all of the holes. In additon, the holes in the backplate were too high for the holes that I drilled in the front so I had to redrill those as well. I mounted the hitch as high up as it would go and still the backplate just didn't.
    Unfortunately I didn't install my Tone hitch as I am not so good with the mechanical arts. But the shop I used told me the measurements that came from Tone were not correct when they went to install it. I know Tone made a bunch of these things, so maybe you chalk it up to variations in production quality (since VX's were hand assembled)?

  6. #6
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    Completed Project

    Thanks for all of the help...







    Still needs a good wash and clean up...but it's been a bit brisk here...

    Here's a tip: Make sure you have your cladding on something soft when you lay it down and when you are cutting the notch for the hitch so the edges dont get all scraped up. Do not ask how I know this...
    Last edited by Mile High VX : 12/21/2010 at 02:02 PM

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mile High VX View Post
    ...where these mount to the inside of the cladding one of the holder housings broke off. Anyone know what type of adhesive works on our plastic cladding so I can reattach this?
    Sounds like I'm too late with a response but here it is anyway.

    I broke off one of those tabs too. I used PC-7 to reattach the broken off piece. AFAIK it's still in place 2 years later.

    Hope that helps.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom4bren View Post
    Sounds like I'm too late with a response but here it is anyway.

    I broke off one of those tabs too. I used PC-7 to reattach the broken off piece. AFAIK it's still in place 2 years later.

    Hope that helps.
    Thanks Tom.

    I put it back together without the tab after trying 4 different products. I'll get this at the ACE Hardware near my wife's work and put it back on.

  9. #9
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    Our local Ace stopped carrying PC-7 a few years ago. Online search indicates that Home Depot is an authorized distributor but I've never seen it in the local stores. IIRC in an old thread, Ldub posted some stores that also carry it.

    BTW, PC-11 would work too. That's the marine versionbut it's a blue-ish white. I prefer the PC-7 though since it is the same color as the cladding (dark grey-ish, black sorta color) if you get sloppy & end up with some where it'll show.

    BBTW, this stuff would also work good to fix cracked a hood insert.

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