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Thread: Car Audio - Amp suggestions.

  1. #1
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    Car Audio - Amp suggestions.

    Alright I have had it with not being able to listen to my radio in my VX. The amps were intermittently not working. They would kick back on after I beat on them a bit but now that does not work. This was installed by the PO. It is a dual amp set up, two small ones.

    I am not a car audio guru. What I would like to do is get a single amp set up but I am not sure what to look for. I have an aftermarket CD player, decent speakers and a two sub set up in the spare tire enclosure (which I have issues with and need to fix as well). What should I look for or get and would this be a quick and easy swap from set up to set up? I don't even know what watt rating to stay above of or anything. Any advice would be appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Go for a Kenwood eXcelon XR-5S This is what i have in my vx for the front speakers , back speakers , and for the sub in the spare tire area (still in progress ) I got it from ebay
    This one is fit perfectly under the front seat , with a capacitor , or a High Current Car Audio Power Cells

    The amp dimmensions are :
    • Width: 9-1/4” (235mm)
    • Height: 2-3/16” (55mm)
    • Depth: 7-9/16” (192mm)
    Last edited by joshi : 12/12/2010 at 08:02 PM

  3. #3
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    There is a picture

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    Some stuff I have picked up browsing through amps over the years is that most of the watt ratings are BS. You want RMS power not PMPO which is what many manufacturers publish on their junk. RMS is usually a lower number and is a better way to describe what is actually going on. PMPO is there to sell amps to people who don't know any better. If it doesn't say which it is then nine times out of ten it's PMPO they're listing. Also, generally amps are set up along two lines, the first is to power your normal midrange speakers (usually two to four outputs) while the other type is for pushing subs only and is rated for quite a bit of power out of one output. It is also generally accepted that it is advisable to overpower your speakers rather than under power them. Hope this helps, I'm by no means a guru, but maybe it will point you in the right direction. It's also important to match up your ohm ratings, if I recall, they run either 2 or 4 typically.
    The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable man persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore all progress depends on me.

  5. #5
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    Joshi thats a nice set up. I had no idea what price range I would have to play with either.

    So what ratings should I look at number wise? How high or low. I keep meaning to read up on car audio but never seem to do it. But this no radio crap is killing me.

  6. #6
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    What sub set up you have in the spare tire enclosure ? What is the RMS rated power for those subs ? Are u using them in paralell or series wiring ? What is the RMS rated power for your speakers in the door and in the back ?
    For best results, match your power amp source level (RMS, or continuous watts) to the upper part of the speaker's recommended range (RMS).

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    That is something I will have to check out.

    The subs I purchased are:
    http://www.bazooka.com/products/mobi...-Subwoofer-P95

    Not sure about the wiring either.

    The speakers were PO installed.

  8. #8
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    I'd say send an E-Mail or call CRUTCHFIELD (visit www.Crutchfield.com). They will give you an unbiased opinion, and you won't be spending extra money on items you don't really need.


  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by JHarris1385 View Post
    So what ratings should I look at number wise? How high or low. I keep meaning to read up on car audio but never seem to do it. But this no radio crap is killing me.
    If you have to ask, you shouldn't have one. Just throw a boom box in the back seat.

    I'm just kidding - I still have the stock system in mine ... & it'll stay that way till "Boy" blows the speakers.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  10. #10
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    Arrow

    Every thing comes down as how much you are willing to spend or how much is the available $$$ you can spend on this. The more you can the more you will enjoy

    The head unit is the key to a good sound system,besides the quality of the speakers you choose.

    I'll suggest you add an nice (i didn't mean expensive) EQ. although the head units comes preloaded with EQ controls you still can play around to extract the best sound out of the system or suited to an more personal choice.

    Big brands offers extraodinary products,such as JBL,sony,alpine (Kenwood's luxury line up ) boss,JVC and pioneer are the most popular-expensive brands.

    If you gonna replace the OEM speakers then atfermarket speakers ( 3-ways ) within the 180-300 watts will do just fine if big bang sound is not your thing.


    Subs within the 600-800 watts ( 4 ohms ) if just perfect depending on the amps power you choose,never hook up amps with higher wattage then the speakers/subs,you'll just risk them to go BOOM

    Crutchfield guys are very helpfull,but when it comes to ask them about which products to grab on they'll lure you into the most $$$ ones.

    My favorites brands are pioneer and alpine,yes they are $$$$ so instead i settled with kenwood which offers good products worth the money ( IMHO )

    My whole sys is kenwood and have not a single complaint to relate.

    If you gonna play with two amps do your self an favor and have them with 4 lines each,with low and high pass filter

    Dynamat definately help reduce the lost of sound and quality,also reduces the vibration that subs causes,got to dissmantle the whole interior do get that job done


    Again,all comes down as to how much you are willing or can spend on this
    Dakar was just the begining.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by JHarris1385 View Post
    That is something I will have to check out.

    The subs I purchased are:
    http://www.bazooka.com/products/mobi...-Subwoofer-P95

    Not sure about the wiring either.

    The speakers were PO installed.
    Are you using a Bazooka enclosure?



    I had a bazooka sub in my first car, it actually sounded pretty good for an old setup (got everything used from my brother-in-law). I know a member here has a bazooka tube mounted above the jack compartment on the wheel well. Not sure how it sounds but definitely saves cargo space.

    I have a 1200 max watt dual amp with a 800 max watt X-plod sub in a slim truck enclosure. It was cheap, cost just over $100 for everything but sounds good for my offroad toy.

    Let us know what you get

  12. #12
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    Or you can be like the Dubster & use Minimus 7 speakers.

  13. #13
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    I have the spare tire enclosure sub box with 2 10'' Bazookas. I still have not had enough time to take the door panel off to figure out what speakers I have. I believe they are infinity.

  14. #14
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    Read Me : http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm#oxygenfree


    My experience with amplifiers thus far is that cheap amps make expensive paper weights .

    The most reliable amp that I have owned was a 1998 Rockford fosgate punch 55.2 . It is still in service , as I passed it on to my nephew.

    I've owned sony , jensen, pyramid . All died out with in two years of owner ship .

    I'm soon to be running JL amps in the vehicross . The said amps have been in my car for over a year,and I haven't had any issues with them yet .

    Being that you didn't install the sound system that is in your car ... I would learn a bit about car audio and look over the system , wire gage , wire length ,Check Impedence of speakers and how they are wired . Check ground wires , make sure that the wire from the alt to the battery has been properly sized for the current your system will be drawing and so on .

    Having your new amplifiers properly mounted and "tuned" will prolong the life of the amplifiers and the speakers . Dirty power,bad!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom4bren View Post
    Or you can be like the Dubster & use Minimus 7 speakers.

    Wow... Minimus 7. Never thought I'd see those in THIS forum. Great little speakers for small space near field monitors. In a vehicle, ehh... not so much. Freq response 55hz-20khz is great for such a small speaker but efficiency sucks at 88 1w/1m and with a long throw 4in woofer rated at 10-15 watts, you cant push them with enuff power to make them loud. Positiong for those little guys makes a world of diff too.

    Great for small personal radios like a bedroom stereo or small shelf system, even computer speakers if you have an amp to drive them. I have two pairs that I haven't used in a coons age and was so impressed by their sound back in my college days I designed a pair of speaks using four of those little long-throws and some peizo mid-tweeters that got around a lot of the efficiency problems, but alas, I couldnt cast the aluminum enclosures so I made them out of MDF. They worked well but by that time thier size became so large that the size/performance "WOW" factor had diminished.

    Kinda OT I know, but it took me back to 20yrs ago. hehe srry

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