Na, the BFH just wasn't big enough!
Actually you just couldn't get a good angle on it to give it the required beating. 15 minutes and $20 and the machine shop had it good to go. Tomorrow I start to put it all back together.![]()
Billy Oliver
15xIronman
My Sponsors:
Accelerate3Coaching
TriSports.com (PM me for 1 time use 20% off code)
He should've created a cash tree in my back yard so I could afford one!![]()
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-a...ress-1666.html
80 buck$...
I know y'all old retired farts have all the jing...![]()
Da press ain't da ching. It's all the blocks & little adapters that you need ... & a different one for each job.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Put a smiley after you say that Bub.
Well we are all back together except for bleeding the brakes...will get that done in the morning.
A few helpfull tidbits...
*Fulcrum bolts are 19mm (if you need to replace one they are m14 1.50 thread pitch and very hard to find). They get torqued to 80lbs.
*The bolts that hold the fulcrum shaft are 22mm and get torqued to 112lbs. When removing these you need to pay attention to the spacers in the back. They need to go back in the same position. A couple small pieces of tape will help hold them together...there are several thin ones.
*Before torquing the fulcrum bolts you need to set the upper control arm so that the upper bump stop is 17mm from the thingy t(tech term) he bump stop hits.
The front fulcrum bolt is easily accessed from the front with a 3-4 inch extension on your torque wrench.
*After doing it the 1st time it is now a fairly easy job. If properly prepared less than 2 hours (additional time for a machine shop to press the old bushings out/new bushings in if you don't have a press and the proper addapters)
*The info for this is in section 3c of the manuel.
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Mission complete!
But...found my next project. Driver side lower ball joint...boot is split...time to replace. Fortunately I have spares in hand!
Last edited by Triathlete : 12/15/2010 at 01:09 PM