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  1. #1
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    Looks sharp Jim, really like the aggressive tread on the Nitto's. The black rims should really make it look mean.

    Sue, I think you have to be careful on going to a darker color for the skids. Even with Gatorback I gotta believe you could end up with at least 2-3 different shades of dark gray/black going on due to sun fading / materials / treatments. My thinking there is that you have the grill which is pretty much a matte black, the plastic cladding which is (insert color here), and whatever color you paint the skid. If anything I'd go lighter, maybe even to a medium silver/gray, somewhere between Ron's original light silver and the eventual color of your cladding. Just my $.02.

  2. #2
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    Question

    Thanks guys!

    I've been doing some research on the grinding issue...
    So far:
    1. (previously) damaged rear axle
    2. Lift angle is too great.

    Can anyone offer suggestions on how to correct the issue?
    Replace the axle?
    Would dropping the rear help? I could remove the Daystar spacers...
    (Do I need to get it re-aligned if I remove the spacers?)
    SilverBullet75
    Formerly: '01 Ebony VXSTLTH
    Now: '08 Saab 9-7x Aero 6.0L

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverBullet75 View Post
    Thanks guys!

    I've been doing some research on the grinding issue...
    So far:
    1. (previously) damaged rear axle
    2. Lift angle is too great.

    Can anyone offer suggestions on how to correct the issue?
    Replace the axle?
    Would dropping the rear help? I could remove the Daystar spacers...
    (Do I need to get it re-aligned if I remove the spacers?)
    Lube the U Joints before you do any repairs or further modifications. Prolly wouldn't hurt to drain & refill the rear pumpkin too (don't forget the LSD additive).

    You won't need to get the front re-aligned just because you removed the spacers in the back. If you adjust your TBs again to compensate though, you will need an alignment.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  4. #4
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    I think I know why. When you lifted the rear 4", you have raked your rear axle so far forward that in a slowing or braking scenario, the rear tires will actually rub the front of the rear cladding. This happens to me on the trails. I also used the 919s, but with no spacer, but I run a 34" tire, so there you go. I would take Tom's advice and lube everything, but those issues won't result in the grinding you hear. You can really check the rubbing, just rub some grease on the inside lip of the cladding, get on it, do some sudden slowing, and if you hear the rubbing, check and see if there is missing grease.
    As for the solution, lower the rear end (take out spacer) or go hardcore and order some rear adjustable lower links from Indy4x and problem solved forever. You can adjust your rake, and make the vehicle ride better again.

    Post up a pic of your VX from the side, I bet you only have an inch or so in front of the rear tire to the cladding...This is the best I could find of mine, but you can see that there is not a whole lot of room there in front of the rear tire.
    Last edited by Marlin : 11/03/2010 at 11:12 AM

    I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
    Thomas Jefferson

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin View Post
    ... lube everything, but those won't result in the grinding you hear.
    KISS=Keep It Simple, Stupid

    That's my motto.

    It's only a 50-50 chance that lube will cure his problem but start with the simple/cheap things first to eliminate stuff.

    Of course your suggestion also costs nothing to elimiate so I'll ignore the "NEENER-NEENER-NEENER" implications of your post ... this time.

    Sorry KAT - don't forget the LSD additive (unless you use RP). Mo Betta???

    I've heard that LSD is not needed with RP.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin View Post
    Most of the premium gear oil comes with LSD additive already in it. Says it right on the bottle.
    Actually it was the manufacturer's lit/bottle where I recall reading it when I was deciding what to use.

    Quote Originally Posted by tom4bren View Post
    Sorry KAT - don't forget the LSD additive (unless you use RP). Mo Betta???
    MO!
    VX KAT
    ....the adventure BEGINS ANEW! ...2015......
    Remember that life is not measured in the breaths you take, but rather in the moments that take your breath away.

  7. #7
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    Thumbs up Success!!!

    Actually you are right on both counts!

    LSD additive IS included in Royal Purple. I changed it out right before I did the lift... If I had known better, I would have waited until AFTER the lift, because it was a PITA to fill the pumpkin at stock height! At lifted height, it's completely accessible!

    Also....
    Drumroll please.
    The noise is GONE!!!!
    It WAS the drive shaft lube!

    I hadn't greased it in about 6 months. It was way dry...
    I used an entire (small) tube on it. Actually popped the cap off the center section (or, maybe that was the rattling/grinding sound I heard before??).

    In any case, LONG LIVE K.I.S.S. !!!!!

    ........"God gave rock'n roll to ya!!! Gave rock'n roll to ya..."

    Thanks for the input everyone!

  8. #8
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    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin View Post
    ...or go hardcore and order some rear adjustable lower links from Indy4x and problem solved forever. You can adjust your rake, and make the vehicle ride better again.
    Found the link for this...
    But, could you please 'splain to an unedjumukated fool where these go?


    https://www.independent4x.com/mercha...roducts_id=481

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverBullet75 View Post
    Found the link for this...
    But, could you please 'splain to an unedjumukated fool where these go?


    https://www.independent4x.com/mercha...roducts_id=481
    The links replace the factory links that attach the axle to the frame.
    As you raise the back of the VX up, the center line of the rear axle creeps forward, therefore moving the wheels forward away from the center of the wheelwell. You can see it in the side view of my VX, where the distance from the front of the well to the tire is shorter than the rear of the well to the tire.
    The links from i4x are beefier and adjustable with threaded collars on each end. This allows you to lengthen the link and move the axle back to the center of the wheelwell.
    Make sense?

  10. #10
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    Talking The New Wheels Are On!!!


    MB Chaos-6
    18x9"



  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom4bren View Post
    drain & refill the rear pumpkin too (don't forget the LSD additive).
    Somewhere I read I didn't need the LSD additive when I changed to Royal Purple.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by VX KAT View Post
    Somewhere I read I didn't need the LSD additive when I changed to Royal Purple.
    Relax Sue, you just drove 3K miles without a problem, I gotta believe if it was a serious oversight you would have heard/felt/paid for it by now.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by vt_maverick View Post
    Relax Sue, you just drove 3K miles without a problem, I gotta believe if it was a serious oversight you would have heard/felt/paid for it by now.
    Most of the premium gear oil comes with LSD additive already in it. Says it right on the bottle.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom4bren View Post
    You won't need to get the front re-aligned just because you removed the spacers in the back. If you adjust your TBs again to compensate though, you will need an alignment.
    I think I'm going to have to pull the rear spacers.
    I'm not too crazy about he ~2" rake, and... the darned noise is back *intermittant*.
    Dang it.
    Hoping this will help.

    Just for piece of mind *don't want to spend another $140 on allignment*...

    Please confirm that I will not need to align again if I pull the spacers out.

    If it doesn't help anything, I'll put them back in I guess.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverBullet75 View Post
    I think I'm going to have to pull the rear spacers.
    I'm not too crazy about he ~2" rake, and... the darned noise is back *intermittant*.
    Dang it.
    Hoping this will help.

    Just for piece of mind *don't want to spend another $140 on allignment*...

    Please confirm that I will not need to align again if I pull the spacers out.

    If it doesn't help anything, I'll put them back in I guess.
    Ummm, rear suspension mod should have nothing to do with alignment...and for 99 bucks, Pepboys does 1 year unlimited alignments, even on 4wd. I know some others have similar deals, but they wouldn't do it on a modified 4wd when I asked.

    I still think the noise is from the rear tire rubbing the fender...

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