And so it begins...

[vt_maverick]

Yeah at $339.95 a set they're over $60 cheaper, plus they boast 40% stiffer design. Zinc plating's got to be good for corrosion resistance as well. Wonder how much more harsh the ride would be though, especially with stock shocks.

http://www.pureisuzu.com/sway_bars4.htm

[samneil2000]

I wouldn't think they would make the ride much worse, just stiffen up roll in cornering. At least that's the thought behind them. What they do in reality might be different. They might limit travel in off-road situations more-so than the stockers since they are stiffer.

[Buffy]

Well today was another exercise in all things rusty. I was removing the axels, ball joints, shockes, etc to gain access to remove rust. The spindals were rusted so bad that when I hit it to break the ball joint loose, sheets of rust were falling off it. The brake sensor is rusted into it, plus the screws broke off into the spindal.

The ball joint removal was going smooth as butter until the LAST bolt. I was removing the lower ball joint and was removing the back bolt the fits in the recess in the lower control arm. Well that area was so rusted that it no longer held the bolt causing it to spin. There isn't enough of the bolt sticking above the control arm to get a wrench on it. Anybody have suggestions??

Shock question.....
should the shock extend all the way out, as in under pressure? After removal mine stays where ever you put it. Pull it out, it stays.... push it in... no move...

So over all not a very good day. Looking at 2 spindals, 2 break sensors anos possibly 2 lower control arms.... kind of expensive day....

[Ascinder]

Shock question.....
should the shock extend all the way out, as in under pressure? After removal mine stays where ever you put it. Pull it out, it stays.... push it in... no move...

That means your shock is blown. If they have pressure(which they need to function) then they'll extend all the way out.

There isn't enough of the bolt sticking above the control arm to get a wrench on it. Anybody have suggestions??

If we're thinking about the same bolts, can you cut the nut off of the other side? If not can you wedge something in the top to prevent it from turning? I don't know how equipped you are, but an old screwdriver tack welded to the head of the bolt does wonders.

[Buffy]

I kind of figured the shock was blown, just wanted a second opinion to be sure. I tried wedging a screw driver down in there but no joy. I wish I had a welding machine I would do the welded screwdriver trick. I would also weld a bolt to the 4 brokencross member bolts. Yea... half the bolts broke. They had rusted so much that the upper neck was about a third smaller than it should be. I've been spraying PB Blaster on it and tapping them with a hammer but still have not gotten any of them to budge.

[vt_maverick]

...can you cut the nut off of the other side? If not can you wedge something in the top to prevent it from turning? I don't know how equipped you are...

Too little sleep or too dirty a mind I don't know, but this was pretty funny to me.

Good luck with all this, should be amazingly better when you're finally through.

[Triathlete]

Looking at all that rust makes me even happier that I live in Arizone. I have bare metal on my sliders where the paint got scraped off in Moab back in May and there isn't even the slightest amount of surface rust!
I think that your job would be way easier if you took Choppers advice...a little time to remove the body would save a lot of time in the long run.

[Buffy]

Disection is almost complete. Will drop the gas tank out on Friday and sand blast on Saturday.



My new hover craft!