And so it begins...

[vt_maverick]

Pics pics pics!!!

[ZEUS]

Gettin ever closer!! Lovin that last part...

[MSHardeman]

When I replaced my brake rotors and lines, I let the system go totally dry and I had brake problems for a while. The VX would stop, but if I kept pushing on the pedal it would eventually go to the floor. After bleeding the brakes multiple times, replacing a leaking hard line and trying just about everything else I ended up replacing the master cylinder and that seemed to solve the problem. My guess is that while the system sat dry for a couple of days the seals in the master cylinder got damaged (maybe dryed out or moisture got into the system). My master cylinder may have been going out to begin with, but sitting dry for a couple of days sure didn't help it out.

I think you've already found out that to bleed the system you need to pull the ABS fuse and have the motor running, but if not try that first.

[Marlin]

Another thought, I just finished putting mine back together, and the brakes suck again. I did not open the system at all. The only thing that changed was the EBC brake pads come with a vinyl pad that goes between the piston and the pad, they say it is to minimize vibration during break in. Well, those two pads came off, and now my brakes suck again. I am going to replace both front calipers and see if that helps. My suspicion is that the piston and/or seals have gone bad over the years. That little pad was enough to fill the gap and increase performance? I don't know, but that is all that changed on mine.

[etlsport]

I've read that bleeding our brakes with thee engine off can damage the vacuum booster.. Hopefully that isn't the case with yours!

[RamAirZ]

How is that possible? Our vacuum booster is no different than any other vacuum booster in design.

[Buffy]

How is that possible? Our vacuum booster is no different than any other vacuum booster in design.

That is what I wondered but the manual does state that bleeding the system without the engine running could cause damage.

On a bright side I actually had my maiden voyage today. I drove my VX to the mufler shop to have the exhaust system installed! I was in hog heaven though I was listening for every noise, creek or pop. I was pleased with how stright it drove and did not pull to either side, especially since it has not had the front end aligned yet! I think I have the ride height set close to where I want it. Sitting on a level surface the distance from the floor to the top of the rear wheel well is 34 1/2 in the rear and 33 1/2 in the front. From looking at my original pictures, it looks like it had a similar stance when I first got it. If anyone could prive me with the measurements of their suspension would be great!

I will post up some before and after pictures soon.

[RickOKC]

If anyone could prive me with the measurements of their suspension would be great!

I looked this up a while back because I thought the nose on mine was way too low (it wasn't). Here's one thread (there are others out there) that made it seem like there was a fair amount of variance on stock vehicles. It's been a while since I did the research, but I was left believing that 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" was average with the full range going from 3/4" to 2".

[Marlin]

If anyone could prive me with the measurements of their suspension would be great!

I will post up some before and after pictures soon.

38.5 to the lip of the cladding in the rear and 37 to the lip of the cladding in the front Hope that helps!!

[Amnesia]

This thread has been dormant for awhile, but I had a similar brake problem years ago after changing both front calipers. (different vehicle) I had swapped the calipers to opposite sides & couldn't for the life of me get them bled properly... Until I realized my error. While the calipers will swap side to side, the bleeder screws need to be on the TOP! ...if you want to get all of the air out!