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Thread: And so it begins...

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  1. #1
    Member Since
    Feb 2009
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    I wouldn't think they would make the ride much worse, just stiffen up roll in cornering. At least that's the thought behind them. What they do in reality might be different. They might limit travel in off-road situations more-so than the stockers since they are stiffer.

  2. #2
    Member Since
    Jun 2010
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    1999, Silver, VX, 0401
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    Well today was another exercise in all things rusty. I was removing the axels, ball joints, shockes, etc to gain access to remove rust. The spindals were rusted so bad that when I hit it to break the ball joint loose, sheets of rust were falling off it. The brake sensor is rusted into it, plus the screws broke off into the spindal.

    The ball joint removal was going smooth as butter until the LAST bolt. I was removing the lower ball joint and was removing the back bolt the fits in the recess in the lower control arm. Well that area was so rusted that it no longer held the bolt causing it to spin. There isn't enough of the bolt sticking above the control arm to get a wrench on it. Anybody have suggestions??

    Shock question.....
    should the shock extend all the way out, as in under pressure? After removal mine stays where ever you put it. Pull it out, it stays.... push it in... no move...

    So over all not a very good day. Looking at 2 spindals, 2 break sensors anos possibly 2 lower control arms.... kind of expensive day....

  3. #3
    Member Since
    Jan 2007
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    VX Skeleton owner
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    Shock question.....
    should the shock extend all the way out, as in under pressure? After removal mine stays where ever you put it. Pull it out, it stays.... push it in... no move...
    That means your shock is blown. If they have pressure(which they need to function) then they'll extend all the way out.

    There isn't enough of the bolt sticking above the control arm to get a wrench on it. Anybody have suggestions??
    If we're thinking about the same bolts, can you cut the nut off of the other side? If not can you wedge something in the top to prevent it from turning? I don't know how equipped you are, but an old screwdriver tack welded to the head of the bolt does wonders.
    The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable man persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore all progress depends on me.

  4. #4
    Member Since
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    I kind of figured the shock was blown, just wanted a second opinion to be sure. I tried wedging a screw driver down in there but no joy. I wish I had a welding machine I would do the welded screwdriver trick. I would also weld a bolt to the 4 brokencross member bolts. Yea... half the bolts broke. They had rusted so much that the upper neck was about a third smaller than it should be. I've been spraying PB Blaster on it and tapping them with a hammer but still have not gotten any of them to budge.

  5. #5
    Member Since
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    2000 Foxfire Red Mica, 0555 (RIP) & 0717
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ascinder View Post
    ...can you cut the nut off of the other side? If not can you wedge something in the top to prevent it from turning? I don't know how equipped you are...
    Too little sleep or too dirty a mind I don't know, but this was pretty funny to me.

    Good luck with all this, should be amazingly better when you're finally through.

  6. #6
    Member Since
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    2000 Foxfire Red Mica, 0555 (RIP) & 0717
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    Yeah I was going to say this will give Rickshaw a run for his money... and that's saying a lot. Nice job Buffy!

  7. #7
    Member Since
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    2001Proton 1432, ex 2001 Dragon Green Mica 0168 (RIP May 2017)
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    If you can't see yourself in the diff cover when it's done then it ain't good enough...just ask rickshaw...
    Live, Love, Forgive and Never Give Up

  8. #8
    Member Since
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    VX Skeleton owner
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    If you can't see yourself in the diff cover when it's done then it ain't good enough...just ask rickshaw...
    VXs don't have diff. covers

  9. #9
    Member Since
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ascinder View Post
    VXs don't have diff. covers
    Well then that rounded backside off the axle housing...maybe we call it the pumpkin...

  10. #10
    Member Since
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    I forgot...the radiator support is particularly prone to crumbling on this vehicle. Might as well yank the radiator and clean all that up too...depending, you may have some metal to replace there

  11. #11
    Member Since
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    1999, Ironman, 1705
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    I just saw an explorer today that is whole undercarriage was absolutely clean and thought to myself "That would be awesome to see someone do on a VX!" and what do you know, i scroll across this..... AMAZING JOB!!! Can't wait to see it all done!

  12. #12
    Member Since
    May 2009
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    What VX? Rodeo Crew Cab, Jackaroo chassis, Supercharged 3.5, Navara tub (!!)
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    Thats nice
    My Jackadeo looked like that too.....then I got it running and found some mud
    The answer is more power! What was the question?

  13. #13
    Member Since
    Dec 2005
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    Former Owner of 'ZEUS' aka 1031
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    How in the world... I can't believe I never saw this thread! Looks like you two are having a GREAT time!

    Just a heads up regarding the Calmini sway bars... to my understanding the Calmini versions are rated against the Trooper sways and using them on a VX actually increases body roll. The VX reportedly uses larger diameter performance sways than what's in a Trooper. Perhaps Chris/Marlin could measure the RS versus VX sway bars - not sure if that would supply the answer or not, but maybe?

    Keep on keepin on, but be safe - that teeter totter freaks me out!
    Sent from my "two hands on a keyboard"

  14. #14
    Member Since
    Jun 2010
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    I decided against the Calmini sway bars. I took my stock ones and had them powder coated and ordered some greasable sway bar links from Indy 4X. It has been a fun project made even more enjoyable that the wife will get out in the garage and turn wrenches with me.

  15. #15
    Member Since
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    Did some assembling this evening. I am hoping to have the rear end installed by tomorrow afternoon.

    Putting the rearend together with new stainless brake lines from Indy4X...



    Old and new rear bump stops...



    The valve covers with new higher metallic coating...



    A shame to cover all this work up, but at least it won't rust again...


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