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Thread: The last CV you'll ever need....maybe

  1. #76
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    Pending the cost of these new CVs, (over 1K I would imagine) I will have 6 OEM CVs available for purchase. I will put new boots on em and everything. I may be able to work out a deal where I can sell all of my extras and cover the cost of a pair of 1K CVs? I know the OEM CVs are listed at 750 and 950 on Isuzu parts,they say the drivers and passenger are different? Not that I am aware of? I have two sets from a VX, one pair with the cups, never wheeled. My set, have been wheeled, but well taken care of, no clicks or slop and what not. This may be doable....waiting on price...

    I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
    Thomas Jefferson

  2. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ascinder View Post
    With Bigmeat's new super flexy IFS, I'd think people would really start wanting these stronger CV's. I don't how many people watched the videos in his thread, but those A-arm angles are going to eat stock CV's for breakfast.
    I was thinking about this a little, and I suspect having the weight balanced between the two CVs will somewhat offset the angle effect on CV longevity. I have broken a couple of CVs where one side was trying to climb a ledge or log by itself. With the "SFIFS", the loads are going to be much more balanced L/R (within the limits of IFS travel at least) so there is good chance that the other side will be helping too in that scenario.

    But we'll see what happens...you may be right.
    95 Trooper with a buncha stuff nobody here cares about...

  3. #78
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    Yeah, from a weight distribution standpoint, it will certainly reduce breakages, but kind of what I was referring to is that generally when people start putting performance oriented stuff like this in, the tendency is to lift as well, they kind of go hand in hand. I know when mine was lifted pretty high like that, the cvs were seeing some pretty steep angles. When that happens you get a lot of end-range play. What I mean is that the balls and cups are sitting where they are not used to being and at the limits of their allowable travel I think that's where a lot of people are hearing the clicking. If you envision the insides of a cv at a high angle, the cages are also at an angle and so every time the shaft turns one revolution, the balls must travel all the way back and forth in the cup. I think this is the clicking people hear. Obviously all this travel is going to cause more wear and tear vs stock which only travel a small amount and then only when there's any suspension travel. That's the reason I was interested in the cvs that have a splints center shaft that allows them to self lengthen and shorten. It would take away some of the forces present when the suspension cycles. And instead of bottoming out the cages in the cups, would let them ride where they're most "comfortable".


    P.S.: 1000th post ftw!!
    The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable man persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore all progress depends on me.

  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin View Post
    Pending the cost of these new CVs, (over 1K I would imagine) I will have 6 OEM CVs available for purchase.
    That's a shame if it does cost that much, even for those of us "Tour de Desert"/Beach folks () I would much prefer to invest a little ching for a much more durable end product (a mild lift is something I'd like to do in the future). But as you said if it costs that much you may as well keep cycling through OEM crap.

  5. #80
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    Ascinder is 100% right. But rather than a negative, I see the moving of the balls as evening the wear throughout the tulip fitting (I found out today that tulip is the technical term for what we call the cup). What can I say, I am a silver lining kind of guy.
    But having the CVs at those angles should be alright for me, my driving style is very slow and methodical, its why I have done so well on the trails, my throttle is very sensitive. I attribute my throttle control skills to years of playing console video games

  6. #81
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    What exactly is it that will be upgraded about these CV's? The cage itself was the only weak spot on the OEM CV's that I experienced. How do they increase the quality of the cage? Just make it thicker?

  7. #82
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    Probably the use of better/stronger metal alloys...just guessing though. They may also know of a better way to design them to eliminate/strengthen weak spots.
    Billy Oliver
    15xIronman
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  8. #83
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    The clicking people hear is the ball(s) traveling in the slots in the tulip and the star, AND hitting a worn or damaged area in there path...either a compression in the tulip or a crack in the star will cause this...

    It is NOT the axle bar binding on the side of the tulip.

    Did you have a diff drop when you had this lift???

    Some CVs allow the axle bar to slip inside the star for more movement...this eliminates the need for the center slip yoke you speak of...

    Quote Originally Posted by Ascinder View Post
    Yeah, from a weight distribution standpoint, it will certainly reduce breakages, but kind of what I was referring to is that generally when people start putting performance oriented stuff like this in, the tendency is to lift as well, they kind of go hand in hand. I know when mine was lifted pretty high like that, the cvs were seeing some pretty steep angles. When that happens you get a lot of end-range play. What I mean is that the balls and cups are sitting where they are not used to being and at the limits of their allowable travel I think that's where a lot of people are hearing the clicking. If you envision the insides of a cv at a high angle, the cages are also at an angle and so every time the shaft turns one revolution, the balls must travel all the way back and forth in the cup. I think this is the clicking people hear. Obviously all this travel is going to cause more wear and tear vs stock which only travel a small amount and then only when there's any suspension travel. That's the reason I was interested in the cvs that have a splints center shaft that allows them to self lengthen and shorten. It would take away some of the forces present when the suspension cycles. And instead of bottoming out the cages in the cups, would let them ride where they're most "comfortable".


    P.S.: 1000th post ftw!!

  9. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin View Post
    Thats what I was thinking, talking with Joe D about it. Definitely gotta stay out of the skinny pedal if you are flexed out...Plus, looking how much flex he gets, gonna have to remove the inner liners, and perhaps trim the outer cladding...no big deal for me, but for some that is probably a deal breaker, although if you want to keep your VX pretty, this kit kind of defeats the purpose.
    Dont forget that I run 35s and 36 inch tires.... thats where all the trimming is neccesary...
    Folks with 31-33ish tires will not need to remove front the inner fenders with the SUPER FLEXY IFS KIT.

  10. #85
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    Well I'm not really sure what you mean by an axle bar, but I think we are saying the same thing. Yes, I did have a diff drop installed at the time. I did 2.5" if remember correctly, but it might have been 3", it'd been a long time. Even with that my cvs were running constant 30 degree angles just going down the street. I was trying to say in my post above that because of that angle, every time the shaft rotates it cause the balls to do exactly what you are saying-slide back and forth in the cv cups, but it's also causing the cages to move all over the place so they can. If you have a cv with no boot on and look inside when you move it and it's at a high angle you can see this plain as day.

  11. #86
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    I just spoke with Sean at RCV. He is trying to get the detailed measurements from my donated parts & have a cost estimate for us soon.

    LittleBeast - I forgot to ask him how the cage is made better but I'll try to remember next time I talk to him.

    BigSwede - I was thinking about the super flexy thing when I was talking to Sean. He is initially going to price the half shafts without the slip joint added to the center bar (to save on cost). They'll be able to add it if needed for those that are going super flexy. He said that on Uber-lifted Toyotas they typically install longer center bars. I don't think that will work for our set up with super flexy since the stuffed wheel will effectively need a shorter center bar or something could get damaged.

    RamAirZ - I'm not trying to take over - just not sure of your interest since you sold your VX.

    Tom
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  12. #87
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    I've still been working on it, little irritated with Sean because this was supposed to be done already lol. If you wanna stay involved be my guest. I wasn't going to bail on this plan even though I sold Sylvia.
    1999 Isuzu Vehicross-#1209- lots of mods - gone
    1995 Honda Passport: Lifted, Locked, 34x10.50's, just a few things..-Click for build thread

  13. #88
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    BTW, I also mentioned to Sean that more than a few of us have gotten wear points in the outer race. In all the cases I've heard of, it was caused by grit that got in after a torn boot. Hope he gets the message tho that the parts should be hardened by the best means possible.

  14. #89
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    Bump for update?

  15. #90
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    I tried to call yesterday but he didn't pick up.

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