Pretty sure I have an extra inner race. Not sure on the half shaft I can't remember. Maybe when I am done with my interior overhaul I will get all this out if you need it.
Looks like I have what you need Tom. Give me a couple days to clean everything up and I'll let you know shipping details.
U Da Man!!
uh. Not to pick scabs, but did this ever get worked out? I think I'm headed for new CVs...again...and would like them to be my last. Doesn't bother me 99% of the year, as it only makes noises in 4lo, but the last week started nudging me.
THIS WE'LL DEFEND
LOL, just wait till you blow your front drive shaft. Zu wants 500-600 for em. I took my spare to a driveshaft shop to have em rebuilt. No go. They said the boots are flanged on and there is no way to repair them. Dunno if I believe that, but I know my currently installed one is clattering. My spare has a torn boot, and apparently my original has had torn boots for quite some time. I mention it in this thread only because it has CVs at each end of the shaft, the drive shaft guy said it was a weird design, and not very strong. I agree, considering our rear Dana44 has axles the size of our wrists, yet our puny front drive train is lacking.
Long story short, there are a few routes::
One-Get em from the yards, I believe any TOD zu will do. Will find out this weekend when I go yard scouting.
Two-Fork over the 600 bones for a new one
Three-Install non-TOD transfer case and swap to the Zu front driveshaft with universals vice CVs.
Perhaps I should start a new thread...........![]()
Last edited by Marlin : 05/23/2011 at 05:43 PM
I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
Thomas Jefferson
Marlin, mine is shot also. My plan is to have a shaft custom built to fit using ujoints. I'll let you know what I find out.
Billy Oliver
15xIronman
My Sponsors:
Accelerate3Coaching
TriSports.com (PM me for 1 time use 20% off code)
Square shafts don't balance well at all. Those that have them generally only use them for off road. Mine will use round tube for tod use on the highway when needed.
I don't know if it was on here or Planet but I had discussed building the same thing Billy. Use yokes at each end for ujoints, weld a yoke in place of our cups and a yoke to the end of the splined part of the CV shaft. The main issue would be binding when turning while flexing since the u-joint would be trying to go 2 directions I think but in theory it should work. Be real easy to replace ujoints too.
1999 Isuzu Vehicross-#1209- lots of mods - gone
1995 Honda Passport: Lifted, Locked, 34x10.50's, just a few things..-Click for build thread
The front drive shaft shouldn't see much movement on an IFS. So binding should not be an issue...I would think. Going to have to get it to a shop and see what they say. I spoke with someone in Moab that had done it on his Trooper so it should be possible.
driveshaft or CV shaft? I was talking about replacing the CV. And what's everyone's issue with front driveshafts? They are a dime a dozen in the yard and don't look that different than any other shaft IMO.
Our front driveshaft has a cv in it...mine is shot. Makes a lot of noise and I can move it up and down about 1/2 an inch. I am going to see about getting a shaft made with ujoints instead of the cv. When I spoke to the guy in Moab he said his shop said $170 to rebuild his shaft or $90 to build a ujoint shaft that would be stronger...sounds like a win/win to me.
I'm guessing they did that because of the TOD? My Passport uses the same length shaft and it just has a slip joint, no CV in it. I was talking about replacing our CV's on the front axle with a ujoint setup, that's where my binding thing came from.
ok im ready for the hate...
whats the diferance betwen a ujoint and a cv?