Isuzu Fog Light switch issues please help :)

[wekilled]

Anyone know if the diagram that Ldub has links to (above in post #2) is accurate? I just got the trunk popper switch and the fog switch and was going to knock it out this weekend.

I know there is other traffic suggesting that the polarity from Moncha is wrong. Just wanted to check before I start running wires.

I also need to come us with the female ends that plug into the backs as mine don't have that and its pretty tight in there to be soldering.

[Marlin]

FWIW,here is what I found a few months ago when I did mine:
Well, I tried using the write up for the switch diagram, only to discover that my foglight switch was not the same as Scott's. I spent a good 1.5 hours with all my switches taking resistance readings and making charts to figure out what leads did what. All said and done, I discovered that the tailgate switch is only a momentary contact, so no go there for wiring up accessories. The cruise switch must have some external input to determine if the switch is open or shut, I would imagine similar to the tailgate switch, only I never got a low resistance reading for any of the lead combinations.
The hazard light switch has multiple possibilities including a off/shut combination and 4 other switched shut combinations. You could do lots with that switch(various lighting setups, fogs/brights roof and so on), only no light on the switch itself.
I used a factory OEM fog light switch from some Isuzu (could have been rodeo or trooper, I have no idea) and a generic 30amp relay that often comes with foglights or can be bought loose for about 6 bucks. Here is the wiring setup I used
From left to right, with the 5th pin being on the bottom right row.
Power for relay and on off light
Cruise switch Blue with white stripe to Fog light switch red with blue stripe

Dash light-
Cruise switch Green with red stripe to same on Fog light switch
Cruise switch Red with green stripe to same on Fog light switch

Power to Relay coil-
86 to Fog light switch yellow
87 to ground (I used the bottom left mounting screw for the glovebox, very convenient and out of sight)

Power to distribution block-
85 to distribution block feeder
30 directly to + terminal of battery with inline 25A fuse

I used 10ga power wire from the battery to the relay/fuse block.
I used 14ga to the CB and monitor and 10 ga for the inverter.

I used the radioshack medium sized project box and it fit perfectly in the glove box with the relay and fuse block inside and left room for the manuals, extra fuses and other junk I keep in there. I drilled separate holes in the project box for the loads and the relay to minimize confusion for future use. I have the CB, ac/dc inverter, and my rear view monitior and camera hooked up to the distribution block, later I will add some foglights. I
All in all I am happy with it. Here are a few pics, I moved my DC power strip as well, still have to run the wires but it got hot outside, time to come inside when you are so hot that your nose starts running.