Cladding

[rowhard]

step 6, turpentine substitute. http://www.carsystem.ca/shared_files...estorer_gb.pdf

[VX KAT]

Step 6 says "Liquid R/R" can be removed with tup subs, do you interpret that to mean turp sub would not work after it hardens?

I also agree with you mav, the odds that "my" cladding is actually different than everybody else's is so remote. Also, I'm in the mountains North of Phoenix, so my max temp this summer has been about 97, today is 85. We're about 20 degrees cooler than Phoenix (sorry Luna!) Yes, 97 is still plenty hot, but just wanted to clarify the temp issue, plus it's always in the garage, so very very little prolonged direct sun exposure.

My humidity is also VERY low, usually in the teens, except when it rains, then goes up to maybe 50%+.....Wonder if the low humidity may contribute to it becoming brittle and easy to "crack" and flake?

Bluish hue- Yes, that's an excellent description of the color of my cladding. And since so many in Moab saw mine and agreed it "looked" lighter than most, I tend to think it is lighter, for whatever reason.

I'm really interested in trying to remove it. Think there's any danger of the turp subs melting or marring the cladding itself? I'll pick up some turp subs today and try an inconspicuous area. Also going to wipe some 303 on and see what happens.

I really like this discussion, we're playing CSI on this issue! Thanks everybody.

[RickOKC]

I'll pick up some turp subs today and try an inconspicuous area.

Wear gloves.

[VX KAT]

Wear gloves.

Just found some at an art /craft store, product called "Turpenoid"....Ace and TrueValue didn't have ANY at all...

I have those thin disposable latex gloves in a box...are those strong enough or will it eat through them?

I was thinking of using a microfiber type rag (and then throw it out)...sound OK?

[RickOKC]

Just found some at an art /craft store, product called "Turpenoid"....Ace and TrueValue didn't have ANY at all...

I have those thin disposable latex gloves in a box...are those strong enough or will it eat through them?

I was thinking of using a microfiber type rag (and then throw it out)...sound OK?

Yikes, I'm out of my pay-grade on this one! Maybe a good test would be to pour a tiny bit of solvent in a glove's fingertip, tie it up and let it set for a little while to see if it eats through. You could even rub the glove with a rag to put a little more stress on it, too. I don't know if I'd waste a good microfiber cloth on this, probably any rag would be ok.

Hey did you have to trim your cladding? If so those leftover triangles would make the perfect "test area" if you still have them. Might even let a drop or two of solvent set on them for a while. (I think I'm paranoid about this due to the "don't rub gasoline off the cladding" note!)

[VX KAT]

I'm pretty sure I trimmed my cladding before I applied the R/R , but good idea. And I'd have to dig around to find those triangles...I think I kept them as souvenirs! And I could treat them with R/R, wait a few days, then try the remover I guess...nay, I'm not that patient.

[VX KAT]

Step 6 says "Liquid R/R" can be removed with tup subs, do you interpret that to mean turp sub would not work after it hardens?

Test results:
Did front driver's "corner" of cladding where there's so much chipping.
Total failure....turp subs didn't even phase the R/R.
I rubbed it on repeatedly and let it sit wet...nothing. Rubbed really hard...nothing...but I did kind of hear some faint crackling sound as I rubbed...perhaps the R/R was slightly cracking or the rag was catching the edges of the chipped areas...but still...no R/R was removed at all. No damage to cladding either, absolutely like I was just wiping it with water....
I have before & after pics..no change.

I think the above statement from the R/R data means it can only be removed if still wet...apparently not after it dries. There's probably some solvent that will remove it, but we don't know what it will do to the cladding.

Rowhard, can you snap a few pics so we can kind of see what it looks like with the One Grand ERV over the R/R?

[Riff Raff]

step 6, turpentine substitute. http://www.carsystem.ca/shared_files...estorer_gb.pdf

In steps 5 & 6; the R/R instructions stipulate to let the R/R penetrate a maximum 5 -- 10 minutes, and then "buff off" the R/R from the ENTIRE surface panel (not just the edges) until completely dry with a lint-free towel. If the R/R is applied and not immediately "buffed off" after sitting on the cladding for a maximum of 10 minutes, then I'd suspect the R/R will turn into a varnish/nail-polish like substance and become very brittle to rock chips and branch abrasions resulting in chipping/flaking. If the R/R is just goobered-on with a thick coat and left to dry that way without any "buffing" after the maximum 10 minute time period, then the varnish/nail-polish syndrome will become evident and extremely sensitive to chipping/flaking.

That's just my observations from reading the R/R instructions. Again; I haven't tried R/R on my cladding, but when I used R/R on my Hood Insert, I immediately "buffed off" the entire Hood Insert with a dry lint-free towel at the 8-minute mark (used a digital egg-timer, and didn't want to risk venturing past the 10-minute maximum mark). The R/R results were excellent on my Hood Insert and removed all discoloration and various sun-fade shadows.

Still; I'm not gonna risk my cladding to R/R and will use the TS-1 product instead, especially since it was mentioned by-name in the GM-TB. I will follow the TS-1 instructions to-the-letter, and wipe it down with a "damp/wet" cloth as per its instructions. We'll see how it goes, but Mr. Larry's VX review and the TS-1 website "links" has given me the confidence I need.

[VX KAT]

I followed the directions to the letter, soft flat brush, lint free rag or soft pad, went preciously 10 mins, wiped with the lint free rag, it captured any "runs"that may have formed.

Rif I don't see where step 5 or 6 mention anything about the

"and then "buff off" the R/R from the ENTIRE surface panel (not just the edges) until completely dry with a lint-free towel

. So I'm not clear on your directions. Actually that sounds more similar to the directions to 303. They're quite clear on the procedure of wiping it dry completely with a lit free rag. Can you clarify that for me?

5. Refinish Restorer should take effect 5 to 10 minutes after application. Any liquid Refinish Restorer can be
brushed over a more porous area.
6. After a maximum of 10 minutes any excess oil should be removed with an absorbent lint free cloth or a soft
pad, otherwise it can only be removed with a suitable stain remover. Liquid Refinish Restorer can be removed
using a turpentine substitute

I also did my hood insert last yr (April), just one coat, came out great and hasn't had any chipping or anything, still looks beautiful, very happy with the way it came out. Glad to hear yours came out so great too!

Just gotta be something different either I did, or the composition of my front cladding, or the environmental aspects (heat/low humidity, etc), or the shear fact that I drive on extremely rough dusty roads where the front is constantly getting pelted with debris, and then the rest is highway driving mostly 65+ limit....but I may go a wee bit over that....sometimes, and it's still a high debris/sandy/dirt environment.

Think my options are to give it another good coat of R/R (hoping the chip defects get absorbed or covered), buy a new front cladding, Line-X the whole dang cladding, find a solvent that works to remove it. Petos had limited success when he heavily recoated his trying to get it to absorb larger globs where he'd forgotten to wipe them/blend them in before it hardened.

Think I'll try to write to mfg for some tech info.

But I'm really looking forward to your details RIff on the new stuff TS-1 and seeing the results. Post some pics when you get it done! As well as RickOKC's testing.

[Riff Raff]

I followed the directions to the letter, soft flat brush, lint free rag or soft pad, went preciously 10 mins, wiped with the lint free rag, it captured any "runs"that may have formed.

Riff, I don't see where step 5 or 6 mention anything about the

"and then "buff off" the R/R from the ENTIRE surface panel (not just the edges) until completely dry with a lint-free towel

. So I'm not clear on your directions.

Petos had limited success when he heavily recoated his trying to get it to absorb larger globs where he'd forgotten to wipe them/blend them in before it hardened.

Ok; if you followed the R/R instructions to-the-letter as you say, then there must be another reason for the chipping/flaking. My reference to R/R instructions 5 & 6 were "paraphrasing" to simplify and possibly clarify their intent and NOT a direct quotation. If you're still confused on the R/R instructions, I don't know what else to tell ya'. Quit trying to pick a fight. I also remember PETOS having R/R problems, as he waited too long before buffing off the R/R. Lesson learned.

Since MR. LARRY's has already applied TS-1 to his VX with great success, perhaps he'll post some pictures and give us some more detailed information. Hint, hint, wink, wink.

[PK]

Quit trying to pick a fight.

Oh come on Riff.

If you really think Sue's response above was trying to pick a fight, then you have some serious phobias.

I have reread that response several times.
It still reads like Sue appreciated your input, politely corrected a couple of errors you made, and then encouraged your further input in regard to the alternative treatment.

What else do you want??

Seriously man.

PK

[Ldub]

Oh come on Riff.

If you really think Sue's response above was trying to pick a fight, then you have some serious phobias.

I have reread that response several times.
It still reads like Sue appreciated your input, politely corrected a couple of errors you made, and then encouraged your further input in regard to the alternative treatment.

What else do you want??

Seriously man.

PK

I think his "radar" must be stuck on......

[VX KAT]

Quit trying to pick a fight.

Where'd that come from Riff? I thought we were all having a technical discussion here and doing some problem solving.....

I too hope "Mr Larry's" can get some pics, but if he doesn't, I hope you can when you get your TS-1.

[Riff Raff]

Where'd that come from Riff?

Exactly my point. Play nice.