Cladding

[vt_maverick]

Go for it!!!

[VX KAT]

Billy Mays...my hero! ....well until he died with cocaine in his system....

I've got lots of quarters and I'm not afraid to use'm!

[Luna X]

I was already thinking about using a high pressure air-gun to blast that stuff away... so if the pressure is washer is doing the job then definately, take the rest off that coating off.
Confirms my statement about stuff not adhering to the cladding without all the correct procedures... You will then be able to start over with the dressing of your choice!

[rowhard]

to bad you don't have a home sprayer, you could load up some diluted caustic soda and really clean it for the next stuff you use. Just remember to protect skin and eyes and rinse well. It is corrosive to skin and metals

[VX KAT]

I was already thinking about using a high pressure air-gun to blast that stuff away... so if the pressure is washer is doing the job then definately, take the rest off that coating off.
Confirms my statement about stuff not adhering to the cladding without all the correct procedures... You will then be able to start over with the dressing of your choice!

Yup, your right Luna....despite what it said about penetrating the plastic and bonding with the molecules blah blah blah....it doesn't "appear" to have bonded too well to my cladding! Oh yeah, we must remember though that my cladding is "special" and apparently a one off and from some other planet, so it doesn't do anything as predicted!

[RickOKC]

OK, I've finished my cladding experiment (bwaa ha ha haaa!)

* 303 Aerospace Protectant
* Meguiar's Natural Shine
* Mothers Back to Black

For me there is no obvious winner. The end result of all three looked very good. The application method is the same: apply solution onto a rag, rub into cladding & wipe off the excess. Easy.

303 Aerospace Protectant
All three left a shiny finish, but 303 looks almost like there is a hard coating over the cladding. From some angles, it almost looked a little blue (maybe it's so shiny it reflects the sky? I dunno.) The cladding looked slightly darker, the coverage is "even" and the end result looked the most like what I would expect as see new from the factory. It held dust, but maybe just a tiny bit more than the un-treated cladding.* Dust was as easy to remove as wiping it off the paint. I wouldn't hesitate to use a California Duster on it, but I'd probably use the one that I had recently "retired." 303 feels completely dry, but it's actually a little oily (tape won't stick to it, for example.) It's by far the least tolerant to water and washing. After the first wash, it was completely gone, and after the second wash it left behind a perfectly clean, streak-free surface. Even one drop of water will remove it almost as if it "eats" the 303.

Meguiar's Natural Shine
This also has a shiny finish and is the hardest to get an even result. It's not a chore to get even, just slightly harder than the others. It likes to collect in the texture so you will have to go over it more times with a dry rag to wipe off the excess. The cladding looked slightly darker and it seems to hide more minor flaws in the cladding. It held much more dust than the un-treated cladding.* Wiping off dust is easy, but requires slightly more effort than the 303. I consider it to also be California Duster friendly, but it is a little oily. It can streak after a wash but the majority of what is left behind was fairly even. The second wash nearly removed it all.

Mothers Back to Black
Also shiny, but it's more of a wet-look than a gloss. The cladding was easily the darkest of the three, often looking extremely dark depending on the angle of the lighting. The end result is deep and extremely even and it hides even more flaws in the cladding. It attracted enough dust to make a crust and removing it requires slightly more effort.* The first light swipe left streaks, but they can be worked out after a few more tries. Looks like a good way to kill a California Duster because it's very oily and almost feels sticky. It held up the best after 2 washes and looked the most even after each.


Starting Point.
Yes, my cladding is streaky! I'm surprised since it was perfectly clean after I had used some heavy-duty stuff to remove the nasty Bondo Restore Black that I had inherited with my VX. I'd treated all the cladding afterward with Natural Shine and then washed it off a few days later. Obviously I did a very poor job. I blame being hard to see since I waited until night so it would be cooler. Also, the new Natural Shine I put on is very uneven here. I did that the same night and didn't look at it again since it was "hidden" on the passenger side and I didn't realize what a bad job I'd done until I got out to take photos. DOH! After applying the products, I waited 2 days before proceeding.

Left to right: 303, Natural Shine, Back to Black










Dusty!
* Awwww CRAP! I just dawned on me as I was writing this and looking at my pictures - this is a lousy test. Notice that the product closest to the wheel is the dustiest, then the next one is less dusty and the one farthest away had the least dust. That would happen no matter what, even if there was a solid coating of just one product. You can also see the "worst to best" pattern repeated in the leftover stripes from the old Meguiar's coating on the lower section. Oh well, I had good intentions.

Left to right: 303, Natural Shine, Back to Black









Wash 1
Used a mild car wash soap (Meguiars) and washed/dried lightly. I didn't scrub, but I didn't baby it either. I wanted to recreate just what I'd do during a normal wash.

Left to right: 303, Natural Shine, Back to Black





Wash 2
Same as above, just lighter and too hard to see in photos.


So... the best is... whatever works for you, just like what has been suggested here all along!

Both 303 and Back to Black look very different, but they each have unique qualities I like. I'm also a big fan of the low-gloss look of the Natural Shine and know from experience it looks nice when applied to the whole vehicle.

I'm pretty sure I'll be a fan of 303 during summer & fall when we get little rain and tons of dust here in Oklahoma. As you can see by my repeated mention of the California Duster, I use it a LOT - every day or two after work. We have acres of gravel parking lots surrounding our business and that constant wind actually leaves "dust drifts." What I'll do in winter / rainy seasons? I'll just have to experiment.

Oops, edit: VX with solid coat of 303:

[VX KAT]

KUDOS Rick! This was a great comparison, even with the limitations you had. It's great to see some actual pics, so it's really valuable even as is!
I just discovered that FRESH 303 will attract SOME dust.....I was being sweet to my honey and after he washed his Polaris RAZR, I started 303ing it...black plastic fender cladding, black side panels, black hood, front light surrounds that are black plastic. Only got to do driver's fenders/side as it got too stinkin' hot........he went on a ride about 2 hrs later, came back pretty dusty only on the driver's side starting from the rear of the front tire wheel well back, (just as Rick pointed out too....so are you going to redo it using horizontal stripes??). Wiped off easily with Calif car duster, not sticky or oily. So the parts that get more blowing air, or don't get sprayed from the tire dirt, don't collect much dust.

Part 2 -Did the passenger side, waited 2 days, then went on a ride...much much less dust sticking, absolutely just like it would've been w/o any 303.

TEACHABLE MOMENTs: I just had to use this silly phrase!
My impressions:

1) Don't go anywhere dusty for 2 days after applying 303...i.e. let it dry for a while. I'm beginning to think that's why directions EMPHASIZE to wipe/rub it down DRY immediately.....which of course, I didn't follow to the letter...I wiped it on, and wiped it several more times, still with the damp 303 rag.....looked fine to me

2) Applying 303 to rubber appears to be entirely different than applying to plastic. The rubber areas on my roof rack have been thru lots of rain, and they're still darker than pre-303, doesn't appear to have washed off as easily as Rick experienced. Likely that 303 absorbs into rubber much more so than plastic.

3) The black/dark charcoal gray plastic components of my roof rack where I applied it over 2 months ago, thru several rain storms, still appear to be "treated", a little less than when I 1st applied it, but not back to original state. So it appears it can be more durable in some materials.

4) I'm really thinking there's a "drying" or "curing" time that's beneficial to 303 being more long lasting.

5) I've done my entire interior panels, dash, console, door panels, etc...over 3 months ago (actually before I went to Moab), still looks great, no abnormal dust collection.

6) Ashley I think that's why your cladding DOES look a tad darker, from your use of the B2B. Looks great!

So just like Rick said, which product is best depends on your circumstances.

Can't wait to hear more info/details/impressions of the TS-1.

[vt_maverick]

So just like Rick said, which product is best depends on your circumstances.

Can't wait to hear more info/details/impressions of the TS-1.

Ditto on KAT's compliments Rick, this is easily the most useful thread on cladding that I've seen in a long time. I'm also looking forward to the TS-1 review - I'm hoping that it's the one shot wonder (although this test would tend to make you believe there's no such thing).

That's a real bummer on the 303 being so easy to wash off. I really like the last pic you posted of 303 on the entire vehicle and being able to wipe off dust with a California Duster (I use one pretty frequently too) without bad streaking (a la B2B) is a real plus. But the trade-off of losing the entire coating after a single rainy day is a real bummer.

Oh well, for my money anyway, I'll stay with B2B pending results on TS-1.

[RickOKC]

Thanks, Kat! I've been thinking about how I could have handled my dust test better. I wonder if the back would have been the best place. (Horizontal stripes might still be unfair to the product closest to the bottom.) Oh, and I need to add to my notes that I did let the VX sit for 2 days after applying the treatments. Should also mention I use a mild car wash soap (Meguiars).

Your comments about rubber reminded me why I expected the Meguiar's to work better. I've used that on tires for years and it will still look very good after 2 - 4 washes. I think you're exactly right about it absorbing better into softer surfaces.

I'm wondering if it's actually possible to get the cladding completely dry after applying 303. I'd used a clean terry towel to dry it, but like I mentioned in my write-up, "tape wouldn't stick to it." (I made another attempt with headlight restorer yesterday and taped around the lights to protect the surrounding surfaces.) Maybe it just wasn't absorbing because I'd used that towel before for removing wax or something and the previous chemicals didn't wash out completely.

[RickOKC]

Thank you Maverick! Right now the 303 is undergoing The Rain Test. So far it's just been sprinkling lightly, but I'm hoping for at least a few minutes of real rain to see what happens. Hmmm, if it all washes off nicely, maybe I'll go ahead and re-do the dust test on the back cladding over the next few days... (I'm sure my neighbors think I've secretly married my VX considering all the time we've been spending together in the garage. Oh well, they already thought I was the weird neighbor guy.)

I'm really looking forward to the TS-1 reviews, too. Actually, I'm looking forward to the long term tests - that stuff is expensive!

[vt_maverick]

Maybe it just wasn't absorbing because I'd used that towel before for removing wax or something and the previous chemicals didn't wash out completely.

Just a tip here, and you probably already know this, but if you wash your stuff in the washing machine or dry them in the drier, make sure you DON'T USE FABRIC SOFTENER. That stuff doesn't come out and can mess with your wax.

[RickOKC]

DON'T USE FABRIC SOFTENER. That stuff doesn't come out and can mess with your wax.

I wish you had told me that years ago! After decades of detailing, I only learned that just last summer!

Hmmmm, I've been thinking about starting a topic on detailing tips...

[VX KAT]

I'm really looking forward to the TS-1 reviews, too. Actually, I'm looking forward to the long term tests - that stuff is expensive!

I PM'd "mr larry's" the other day to ask if he could give us some details, impressions, pictures on the TS-1...no response yet.

Also...I just don't seem to see the same result on the 303 washing off so easily.....I've slathered it on just about everything our house..the plastic hose caddy, the shop vac (well that doesn't get wet), extensions cords, all tires, everything plastic & rubber on our travel trailer and my other truck, and especially on my roof rack cross members AND the metal Yakima basket ....doesn't seem that it washed off. I'm puzzled......

[RickOKC]

I now think part of my issue was that the 303 needed more cure time!

Friday evening: applied 303 to all the cladding.

Sunday morning: had some water from the garden hose splash off the driveway onto the cladding which made it look like the water caused the 303 to "evaporate" where the drops touched.

Sunday afternoon: Finally got to polish & wax the paint! Got some wax on the cladding on a couple of places near the top edge. After cleaning off the wax, I went around the top 1" of the cladding with fresh 303 to even it out - all the way around the VX, even in the places that didn't really need it.

Monday morning: 3 miles of my drive to work was in a very light rain. Later in the morning, it sprinkled for about 10 minutes.

Tonight I see that 1" line where I applied the freshest 303 washed off to a much greater degree than on the rest of the cladding. There are some light stripes on the side cladding that had cured more and some big thin patches on the front that took the brunt of the rain while driving. But that 1" line at the top left a very obvious line where the fresh 303 was affected much, much more.

Hmmm, I also wonder if the super-hard water here could make a difference. (I'm talking about water so hard you can cut yourself just by washing your hands! Nyuck, nyuck!) That's a big issue here - I have to be super careful when I wash my other car. Its paint is pretty soft and if the water dries on it, I have to use vinegar to remove the water spots. That's city water; I don't have the same problem with rain.

[workmeistr]

Hi, Rick!
I apply 303 over my Refinish Restore (1 coat) cladding every once in a while. It looks good, but I too have seen the streaks with water/rain, but thought it was due to me applying over the candy coating of the RR, not allowing the 303 to soak into the raw cladding. My RR still looks good and I was planning to do another coat as a few door strikes and other nicks have "chipped" the RR off in a couple of places. Now I'm worried to add another coat, give the potential for normal chipping, especially on the front. The RR did wonders on my Saab which has it's share of black plastic all around.