Cladding

[vx2darescue]

I am having a cladding issue of my own. My V was rearended last week and the insurance company is fixing it which was welcome news after the horror stories that I have heard about the # of totals that occur. However the company is replacing damaged cladding with new cladding only in the rear. leaving me with a three toned car. Kiaser silver, 10 years of fadded cladding and new shiny black cladding. I now have to prove that is devaluing the vehicle. I need third party bids of my vehicle with original equipmant and now with the crappy missmatched cladding to prove that my car is worth less now than prior to the accident. Any help you all can give me would be helpful.

[circmand]

I feel for you. But trying to prove it may be difficult, it may then increase the cost to repair just enough for them to total the VX instead of repair. I would instead ask that after the VX is repaired they also pay for a detail jod that includes the best type of cladding restoration you can find. Beleive it or not some of this stuff restores the cladding to black (yeah yeah gray blah blah blah) and then just keep up the cladding care. After all this is the same as trying to get an overall paint job for a fender bender.

[rowhard]

I would instead ask that after the VX is repaired they also pay for a detail jod that includes the best type of cladding restoration you can find.

and I think that might be gatorback http://www.gatorbackcoatings.com/application-demo.htm

If you can get them to pay for this, you will be way ahead of the rest.

Oh, last time I spoke with them, they did a VX in the dark grey which was a match

[Luna X]

ok, I'm reading page after page about the cladding.... It's raw plastic made into whatever shape needed from the factory. Bottom line is that it has no UV protection to it. It will fade, then we can treat it... but by no means, put anything that creates a hard shell. It won't stick and will peel/flake off. Remember, the cladding has a slight texture to it so that's yet another deterrent for adhesion.
There are a number of steps that can be taken to prep the stuff for painting or maybe like what some have done (rhinolining) but it does involve numerous steps with numerous products.
So, whichever product is easy to apply after your 2-3 washing, that's what I would recommend...

[VX KAT]

ok, I'm reading page after page about the cladding.... It's raw plastic made into whatever shape needed from the factory. Bottom line is that it has no UV protection to it. It will fade, then we can treat it... but by no means, put anything that creates a hard shell. It won't stick and will peel/flake off. Remember, the cladding has a slight texture to it so that's yet another deterrent for adhesion.
There are a number of steps that can be taken to prep the stuff for painting or maybe like what some have done (rhinolining) but it does involve numerous steps with numerous products.
So, whichever product is easy to apply after your 2-3 washing, that's what I would recommend...

Hey Dan, why didn't you jump in sooner! LOL! That's why I'm glad you're on the forum now, you have such great experience & knowledge. I certainly welcome your input/direction any time.

One point I think may be pertinent to mention here is that both R/R & TS-1 both say they penetrate the surface/plastic cladding. So maybe that changes how it adheres.

Think I'm going to apply some more R/R on the front, see how it looks..otherwise, I may look into getting a new bumper, or maybe even that non-OEM replacement bumper with the texture, then none of my cladding will match! :roll: Anybody have a spare bumper to sell?

[Luna X]

Think I'm going to apply some more R/R on the front, see how it looks..otherwise, I may look into getting a new bumper, or maybe even that non-OEM replacement bumper with the texture, then none of my cladding will match! :roll: Anybody have a spare bumper to sell?

Sue,
Don't go spending money on a new bumper cover... when you come down next week, I'll see what I can do about getting all that flaking/chipping stuff off so you have a clean slate to work with.
'Till then, don't put anymore layers of anything on... o-tay?

[VX KAT]

Sue,
Don't go spending money on a new bumper cover... when you come down next week, I'll see what I can do about getting all that flaking/chipping stuff off so you have a clean slate to work with.
'Till then, don't put anymore layers of anything on... o-tay?

O-Tay, 10-4!
Tanks!

[VX KAT]

Well heck, here's a new development!
Took it to the self serve car wash place with the pressure washer(where you put a bunch of quarters in). With all the rains this season, I've got mud caked all over the place...maybe not as much as CrotchRocket , but still lots of it.

So I blasted the heck out of everything, especially the cladding and wheel wells where the mud is....well guess what?.... when drying I discovered I blasted a bunch of R/R off too!!! I've got some large areas (like 7" x 5") mostly over the wheel wells that are nekkid cladding! Since that's where I concentrated the spray, that's what got blasted the hardest...and took off the most R/R.
WAHOO!!!!!

Whatdaya think Luna?? Shouldn't I go back and blast some more?

[vt_maverick]

Go for it!!!

[VX KAT]

Billy Mays...my hero! ....well until he died with cocaine in his system....

I've got lots of quarters and I'm not afraid to use'm!

[Luna X]

I was already thinking about using a high pressure air-gun to blast that stuff away... so if the pressure is washer is doing the job then definately, take the rest off that coating off.
Confirms my statement about stuff not adhering to the cladding without all the correct procedures... You will then be able to start over with the dressing of your choice!

[rowhard]

to bad you don't have a home sprayer, you could load up some diluted caustic soda and really clean it for the next stuff you use. Just remember to protect skin and eyes and rinse well. It is corrosive to skin and metals

[VX KAT]

I was already thinking about using a high pressure air-gun to blast that stuff away... so if the pressure is washer is doing the job then definately, take the rest off that coating off.
Confirms my statement about stuff not adhering to the cladding without all the correct procedures... You will then be able to start over with the dressing of your choice!

Yup, your right Luna....despite what it said about penetrating the plastic and bonding with the molecules blah blah blah....it doesn't "appear" to have bonded too well to my cladding! Oh yeah, we must remember though that my cladding is "special" and apparently a one off and from some other planet, so it doesn't do anything as predicted!

[RickOKC]

OK, I've finished my cladding experiment (bwaa ha ha haaa!)

* 303 Aerospace Protectant
* Meguiar's Natural Shine
* Mothers Back to Black

For me there is no obvious winner. The end result of all three looked very good. The application method is the same: apply solution onto a rag, rub into cladding & wipe off the excess. Easy.

303 Aerospace Protectant
All three left a shiny finish, but 303 looks almost like there is a hard coating over the cladding. From some angles, it almost looked a little blue (maybe it's so shiny it reflects the sky? I dunno.) The cladding looked slightly darker, the coverage is "even" and the end result looked the most like what I would expect as see new from the factory. It held dust, but maybe just a tiny bit more than the un-treated cladding.* Dust was as easy to remove as wiping it off the paint. I wouldn't hesitate to use a California Duster on it, but I'd probably use the one that I had recently "retired." 303 feels completely dry, but it's actually a little oily (tape won't stick to it, for example.) It's by far the least tolerant to water and washing. After the first wash, it was completely gone, and after the second wash it left behind a perfectly clean, streak-free surface. Even one drop of water will remove it almost as if it "eats" the 303.

Meguiar's Natural Shine
This also has a shiny finish and is the hardest to get an even result. It's not a chore to get even, just slightly harder than the others. It likes to collect in the texture so you will have to go over it more times with a dry rag to wipe off the excess. The cladding looked slightly darker and it seems to hide more minor flaws in the cladding. It held much more dust than the un-treated cladding.* Wiping off dust is easy, but requires slightly more effort than the 303. I consider it to also be California Duster friendly, but it is a little oily. It can streak after a wash but the majority of what is left behind was fairly even. The second wash nearly removed it all.

Mothers Back to Black
Also shiny, but it's more of a wet-look than a gloss. The cladding was easily the darkest of the three, often looking extremely dark depending on the angle of the lighting. The end result is deep and extremely even and it hides even more flaws in the cladding. It attracted enough dust to make a crust and removing it requires slightly more effort.* The first light swipe left streaks, but they can be worked out after a few more tries. Looks like a good way to kill a California Duster because it's very oily and almost feels sticky. It held up the best after 2 washes and looked the most even after each.


Starting Point.
Yes, my cladding is streaky! I'm surprised since it was perfectly clean after I had used some heavy-duty stuff to remove the nasty Bondo Restore Black that I had inherited with my VX. I'd treated all the cladding afterward with Natural Shine and then washed it off a few days later. Obviously I did a very poor job. I blame being hard to see since I waited until night so it would be cooler. Also, the new Natural Shine I put on is very uneven here. I did that the same night and didn't look at it again since it was "hidden" on the passenger side and I didn't realize what a bad job I'd done until I got out to take photos. DOH! After applying the products, I waited 2 days before proceeding.

Left to right: 303, Natural Shine, Back to Black










Dusty!
* Awwww CRAP! I just dawned on me as I was writing this and looking at my pictures - this is a lousy test. Notice that the product closest to the wheel is the dustiest, then the next one is less dusty and the one farthest away had the least dust. That would happen no matter what, even if there was a solid coating of just one product. You can also see the "worst to best" pattern repeated in the leftover stripes from the old Meguiar's coating on the lower section. Oh well, I had good intentions.

Left to right: 303, Natural Shine, Back to Black









Wash 1
Used a mild car wash soap (Meguiars) and washed/dried lightly. I didn't scrub, but I didn't baby it either. I wanted to recreate just what I'd do during a normal wash.

Left to right: 303, Natural Shine, Back to Black





Wash 2
Same as above, just lighter and too hard to see in photos.


So... the best is... whatever works for you, just like what has been suggested here all along!

Both 303 and Back to Black look very different, but they each have unique qualities I like. I'm also a big fan of the low-gloss look of the Natural Shine and know from experience it looks nice when applied to the whole vehicle.

I'm pretty sure I'll be a fan of 303 during summer & fall when we get little rain and tons of dust here in Oklahoma. As you can see by my repeated mention of the California Duster, I use it a LOT - every day or two after work. We have acres of gravel parking lots surrounding our business and that constant wind actually leaves "dust drifts." What I'll do in winter / rainy seasons? I'll just have to experiment.

Oops, edit: VX with solid coat of 303:

[VX KAT]

KUDOS Rick! This was a great comparison, even with the limitations you had. It's great to see some actual pics, so it's really valuable even as is!
I just discovered that FRESH 303 will attract SOME dust.....I was being sweet to my honey and after he washed his Polaris RAZR, I started 303ing it...black plastic fender cladding, black side panels, black hood, front light surrounds that are black plastic. Only got to do driver's fenders/side as it got too stinkin' hot........he went on a ride about 2 hrs later, came back pretty dusty only on the driver's side starting from the rear of the front tire wheel well back, (just as Rick pointed out too....so are you going to redo it using horizontal stripes??). Wiped off easily with Calif car duster, not sticky or oily. So the parts that get more blowing air, or don't get sprayed from the tire dirt, don't collect much dust.

Part 2 -Did the passenger side, waited 2 days, then went on a ride...much much less dust sticking, absolutely just like it would've been w/o any 303.

TEACHABLE MOMENTs: I just had to use this silly phrase!
My impressions:

1) Don't go anywhere dusty for 2 days after applying 303...i.e. let it dry for a while. I'm beginning to think that's why directions EMPHASIZE to wipe/rub it down DRY immediately.....which of course, I didn't follow to the letter...I wiped it on, and wiped it several more times, still with the damp 303 rag.....looked fine to me

2) Applying 303 to rubber appears to be entirely different than applying to plastic. The rubber areas on my roof rack have been thru lots of rain, and they're still darker than pre-303, doesn't appear to have washed off as easily as Rick experienced. Likely that 303 absorbs into rubber much more so than plastic.

3) The black/dark charcoal gray plastic components of my roof rack where I applied it over 2 months ago, thru several rain storms, still appear to be "treated", a little less than when I 1st applied it, but not back to original state. So it appears it can be more durable in some materials.

4) I'm really thinking there's a "drying" or "curing" time that's beneficial to 303 being more long lasting.

5) I've done my entire interior panels, dash, console, door panels, etc...over 3 months ago (actually before I went to Moab), still looks great, no abnormal dust collection.

6) Ashley I think that's why your cladding DOES look a tad darker, from your use of the B2B. Looks great!

So just like Rick said, which product is best depends on your circumstances.

Can't wait to hear more info/details/impressions of the TS-1.