The regulator is the the gizmo inside the door that actually moves to lift the window. If you have the parts catalog, it's on page 15, top diagram in the far right column, note #8.Originally Posted by VX KAT
I really can't be angry with the previous owner of mine - I probably would have broken the switch panel, too. I just happened to stumble upon the correct removal instructions here while looking for something else. Heck, I'm the moron who broke the driver's side door latch mechanism just by removing the door panel.I accidently cracked mine recently........letting it dangle while I removed the door panel and replaced my rubber window track....and the door accidently closed...pinching the black plastic handle between the sill and door and slightly cracking the pull handle part...
One of those bull in a china shop moments.
GASP!So....after a total fiasco trying to fix it with super glue which resulted in nothing but glued fingers and lots of cuss words....I called Merlin... told me a new handle WITHOUT the ELECTRONICS would be $67!!...just the freakin' plastic!!.....(so the part must be available)....so with tail between legs, I wrapped black electric tape around it....for now....
Yikes, I assumed the electronics were included with the switch panel and thought I'd be just that much better off by having new switches, too. But now I see you're right - the switches are separate. $63 (right) or $184 (left) for the switches (X 1.377 mark-up). So $66 just for the plastic - OUCH!
You used duct tape - I've been tempted to take the easy/cheap way out and just secure the switch plate/handle using a skinny black zip tie. I've NEVER had ANY success with Super Glue in ANY situation.Hey, have you ever played around with J.B. Weld? It's pretty awesome! The first time I encountered it a friend was playing with it and made a handle (like on a beer mug) on a Coke bottle.
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