Has it been in a flood?
Has it been in a flood?
John Eaton
Original Owner
2001 Proton Yellow #580
Atlanta GA
http://wildtoys.com/vehicross/
http://vehicross.blogspot.com/
"Metaphors be with you"
Not in a flood but was the daily driver of a teenager. I guess he was playing U-Boat commander with some local mud holes. So I've got some cleaning to do before I am happy with the engine bay. Gonna try a few CHEAP things over the next few days to see if I can get the tapping to go away. The noise sounds more like valvetrain instead of a rod.
Grats on the purchase. Hope the engine repair is a pleasantly inexpensive suprise.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Put a smiley after you say that Bub.
The body looks to be in great shape.....
.....but pleeeeeezzzzzzzzzzzz do some rust removal!
Good luck with the engine repairs. Sounds like you got a smoking deal.
Welcome to the fam/addiction!
Billy Oliver
15xIronman
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I definitely plan on fixing the rust. Looking for rust was one of the first things I checked. There is some rust on the frame but just surface rust at this point. The rear sway bar is very rusty so I may need to replace that. But the rust will be taken care of VERY soon.![]()
Be sure to check out the front bumper (behind the front cladding) as this is an area that is known to be an issue...![]()
Live, Love, Forgive and Never Give Up
Hope that's the case - i.e., it's not rod or crank noise. Valves are adjusted via shim over bucket so valve noise is fairly uncommon though - unless lash is way, way out of spec - out as in it has spit a shim out and it's clattering around on top of the head...
A loose nut on the EGR pipe (at bottom of the EGR mount) is a fairly common occurrence with the 6VE1 however - and it sounds a lot like valve clatter - almost as bad as a diesel - but the fix is quick and simple and CHEAP - so check for tightness before you start trying to chase down noise in the valvetrain. If it needs tightening, a 22mm stubby wrench or flex wrench will make life easier.
If it's not the EGR then check your timing belt tensioner ASAP, as they have been known to fail and cause valve train noise. This is very important! You do not want your VX to jump time as it's a PITA to get it happy again and furthermore some say we have an interference engine so it might cost more than just your time. You're coming up on 100K miles so it's time for a new belt and tensioner anyway...
Welcome,
Great price!!!
check the oil pan to see if it is dented (even a small amaount)...Mabey the U-Boat Skipper was Hi-centering it through the ruts and mud$$$
I had my second VX engine toast the crank berrings (the rod berrrings were still good) because the pan had a "small" dent in it...the oil pick-up is like 1/4" off the bottom of the pan!!!! just a small dent and now shes starvin for oil!!!![]()
I did a few oil changes on it last night and ran some SeaFoam through the crankcase then put some quality oil back in it. While under there I did not notice any dents on the oil pan but I wasn't looking for anything like that either. It still tapps, if I reve the engine by hand I can feel the tapping so something is definitely knocking against something. RamAirZ has given me some great suggestions as well. I think my next step is to take the valve cover off as the noise sounds like it is coming from where the cam gears are. If all looks well there then I will dig further and see what the timing set looks like. While it is running it idles and reves smooth.
Check the timing belt tensioner.Mine went bad and I thought it was something really bad.It will keep enough tension on the belt so it doesn't jump,but it taps against the bracket and makes a bad noise.If you remove the top cover on the passenger side you can push on the belt and it should be tight .If the tensioner is bad you can make the tapping noise by pushing on the belt. shawn
1COOLVX