SUPER FLEXY IFS ????? who wants it?

[BigMeatVX]

No, they don't need clearance to get in the country anymore apparently.

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[RallyDude]

I was referring to a dash-mounted super flexy IFS controller for the VX, not looking to buy a 2014 Jeep. I've got to think something could be substituted for the removable pin?

[Ascinder]

I was referring to a dash-mounted super flexy IFS controller for the VX, not looking to buy a 2014 Jeep. I've got to think something could be substituted for the removable pin?

I think the thing you're looking for in that case is a solenoid. You could also use a cable or push rod to make it lever actuated. An air or hydraulic cylinder would also work but require a little more work. I'd stick with the solenoid. You would probably have to taper the pin too so it would engage smoothly. How hard is it to get out and pull a pin though? Seems like for as much as you'd use this, you could pull a pin out 50 times and it would take just as long as installing a system like that once, not to mention cost, complexity, and reliability.

[RallyDude]

I thought about a solenoid, but I didn't know if you had to move that yolk back and forth in order to get the pin in.

[vt_maverick]

How hard is it to get out and pull a pin though? Seems like for as much as you'd use this, you could pull a pin out 50 times and it would take just as long as installing a system like that once, not to mention cost, complexity, and reliability.

Unless you have skid plates. Obviously I've never installed this kit on my VX, but I would think it would be difficult to pull (and probably even harder to replace) the pin without removing the plate. If that's the only way to do it, then it kind of defeats the point of an easy to use pin.

[Ascinder]

I can see where you guys are coming from with the skidplates, but I just really have a hard time believing that you're going to be able to get this system to align itself perfectly each time and get the pin to engage and disengage without it hanging up. If the hole the pin goes into has slop in it so it engages easier, then conversely it wouldn't be that tight when engaged and you'd probably have it rattling and banging all the time. On the other hand if it is a precision fit, them it's harder to line up each time. Solenoids aren't that powerful, and if you step up to hydraulics you may damage something by forcing the pin when it is out of alignment. That's kind of what I was meaning about being more troublesome that just going the manual route. Not saying it can't be done. Just may be pretty diffict to get right.

[rowhard]

First off, well done, those are excellent demo vid's and it show's how well your Super Flexy IFS works.

I'm sure if he can design this, skid plate/pin interference would be a very minor bump in the road.

[BigMeatVX]

I think the thing you're looking for in that case is a solenoid. You could also use a cable or push rod to make it lever actuated. An air or hydraulic cylinder would also work but require a little more work. I'd stick with the solenoid. You would probably have to taper the pin too so it would engage smoothly. How hard is it to get out and pull a pin though? Seems like for as much as you'd use this, you could pull a pin out 50 times and it would take just as long as installing a system like that once, not to mention cost, complexity, and reliability.

Yes the PIN already has a taper on the end of it that helps with allignment.

Most electric solinoids are not powerfull enough to pull this pin, however...Air or hydraulic?????? way to much work and too complicated...IMHO

Here is what WILL work.

Imagine a HD long Valve-spring that holds the PIN in the hole....Now imagine a OEM style e-brake handle (which has compound leverage on a cable) attached to a HD cable....which is attached to the PIN.....
You pull the handle up untill it locks,,,the coil spring force (and friction) is overcome and the PIN slides back releasing the Cross-bar for SUPER-FLEXY use.

Then, when you hit the pavement again, then release the handle...The coil spring then pulls the handle down and pushes the pin back in place...(Of course you may have to rock the rig back and forth just a bit, but this could be done while in motion with just a flick of the steering wheel.)

This is something I will make availble later, however it will be $$$...

There are other ways to do this , also.... Just a big lever with simple linkage would work, too.

[Robbomaz]

Yes the PIN already has a taper on the end of it that helps with allignment.

Most electric solinoids are not powerfull enough to pull this pin, however...Air or hydraulic?????? way to much work and too complicated...IMHO

Here is what WILL work.

Imagine a HD long Valve-spring that holds the PIN in the hole....Now imagine a OEM style e-brake handle (which has compound leverage on a cable) attached to a HD cable....which is attached to the PIN.....
You pull the handle up untill it locks,,,the coil spring force (and friction) is overcome and the PIN slides back releasing the Cross-bar for SUPER-FLEXY use.

Then, when you hit the pavement again, then release the handle...The coil spring then pulls the handle down and pushes the pin back in place...(Of course you may have to rock the rig back and forth just a bit, but this could be done while in motion with just a flick of the steering wheel.)

This is something I will make availble later, however it will be $$$...

There are other ways to do this , also.... Just a big lever with simple linkage would work, too.

Two small pins driven in/out by cantilevers? The amount of mechanical advantage can be tailored and operation could be by a cable thru the floor to (ANOTHER ) lever

PS: Love ya work M8! Nothing better than rolling an **allegedly inferior** truck past the big ones

[Marlin]

Mine gets here thursday...I will be at Hallowharrie though I will get the install done in mid november, gotta finsh up my diff drops first (Joe D cut and welded em for me, but I gotta finish em up and do the cross member mod). I will take lots of pics during install. I have a uwharrie run in December, so look for some decent rock vids then...unless someone beats me to it.

[BigMeatVX]

That map should be manditory in school....

Ive been busy offroading, and working on improvements...the PIN is a bit difficult to remove at times

[ZEUS]

I was referring to a dash-mounted super flexy IFS controller for the VX, not looking to buy a 2014 Jeep. I've got to think something could be substituted for the removable pin?

Dude, I think Alan was telling you, "Sure, you could fab up your own dash activated setup." The reference he used implies... "The parts are out there. Get on it!" not "Go buy a Jeep." Let us know what you come up with...

[RamAirZ]

Those vids are awesome!

[RallyDude]

I would think with some of the full skids that I have seen, drilling some holes for access, and cooling is your best bet anyway. You reduce some weight as a bonus, while still retaining most of the structural integrity. A blown tranny due to heat buildup costs just as much as a tranny crushed by a rock. Most of my experience with driving is mountain driving a stick. But I do know cooling that AT is critical especially under load. I regularly would climb 7500 feet at high speeds on interstate and highway just to get to work. If I had ay a skid, which I am somewhat looking for now (I plan on buying one in spring). I'd definitely drill some strategically placed holes. What good are overheated components caused by a skid that was there to protect it?

I think the super flexy IFS will prove to be a valuable off-road tool at a bargain price. Even bargain pricing until sometime in May (hopefully) for me is beyond my budget. I'll have to pay a bit more, but I'll see what everyone thinks as it seems like a lot of members are wisely going for this mod. For what I wheel, the balanced aggressive stance with better grip, will be much more stable and much less tippy when the going gets tough. On fast sections that have just mild obstacles, the truck should be able to suck up some obstacles while maintaining direction. Often I cross in and out of on- and off-road terrain. It would be nice to not have to crawl under the truck whenever the terrain changes. I like the e-brake type idea you came up with as well. I'm guessing you'll be busy creating all the standard kits before you decide to offer a cabin-operated version, or that part might just be DIY?

I've got to say, this is a really exciting mod. When I come back from Moab, I just usually mellow out and listen to the stereo after a week of playing. And instead you design an incredible bargain suspension component. I'm really impressed.

[Marlin]

My only concern for others, not so much me, is to get the kind of flex he has in the videos, you gotta tear all that plastic BS out of the wheel wells. There is not a whole lot room in there for tuckin a 32 or 33" tire. Think about what angle your CV is gonna be at, a diff drop will help, its why I am doing mine. Don't get me wrong, I ordered my kit last week, and will thoroughly test it out, but I don't think its some magic simple toy to make your VX a SAS. Its gonna take some work to keep from tearing it up...enter EMPI CVs
Sorry to possibly turn away customers Bigmeat, but they need to know, I don't think this kit is for the once a year Moabber. Not that there is anything wrong with that either Just sayin............