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Thread: CV joint replacement

  1. #1
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    CV joint replacement

    I know there are other how-tos for this, but they did not help me. Here is one with some pics and step by step instructions I hope will help others.
    Tools you will need:
    8mm Allen wrench
    3lb sledge
    lug wrench
    breaker bar
    2 jacks and/or stands
    pick
    snap ring pliers
    14,17mm(deepwell and regular), 22 mm sockets and appropriate ratchet. i recommend 1/2" drive.
    14,17,22mm wrenches
    boot band tool
    hand swag(for cutting boot band) A good pair of dikes would work as well.
    rags

    I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
    Thomas Jefferson

  2. #2
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    Remove wheel. Then remove the hub cover with the 8mm wrench.


  3. #3
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    Once you get the hub cover off, remove the snapring with the snapring pliers. This will release the CV joint for later.

    Next you need to take the calipers off.



  4. #4
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    After this is done, you need to put the jack under the A-arm. Then go ahead and remove the bolts for the lower ball joint and break the tie rod end free.


  5. #5
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    Now you can pull the CV out once you have removed the retaining ring inside the green cup. At this point, you need to remove the boot, you are going to get dirty, just accept it and dig in




  6. #6
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    To put the new CV in, put the splines into the hub first, and then you can swing the other end into the cup past where the front bump stop was.
    Put the snapring back into the cup, put the boot on. Then you just work backwards from there. Voila, drink some beer and celebrate a job well done.

  7. #7
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    Thumbs up

    Cool! Thanks for time and effort in putting this together.
    Peace.
    Tom
    "Through Great Sacrifice..... Great Rewards Will Be Achieved"

  8. #8
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    Yep, none of the other how tos showed to remove that stupid ring inside the green cup. The lack of that step resulted in me pulling the entire axle out and subsequently ruining an inner axle seal. Bad joo joo. Following my procedure, it took me 2 hours, by myself, taking pics and whatnot.
    Before the VX, I had never done anything mechanical on a car except change a starter on my old Bronco II,brake pads on my volvo, and thats about it.
    I just want to show that anyone can do it, and with minimal tools. I got all that junk and more at Harbor Freight for less than 80 bucks. I also cheated and used some pneumatics to speed things along, but they are not neccessary. We did that exact same job in the campground, in the dark and it was raining. Took longer then, but I am getting better at it
    Thanks Tom

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin View Post
    Yep, none of the other how tos showed to remove that stupid ring inside the green cup.
    The how to for CV boot replacement clearly shows that snap ring and how to remove it.
    That is what I have used for each boot replacement I have done.

    PK
    Now that food has replaced sex in my life -

    I can't even get into my own pants!!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by PK View Post
    The how to for CV boot replacement clearly shows that snap ring and how to remove it.
    That is what I have used for each boot replacement I have done.

    PK
    I searched for CV joint replacement, and found nothing about the stupid snap ring. I also looked at the tech manual, it just says something like "remove the CV axle shaft" or something along those lines.
    Wow, I just looked at the CV boot how to, strikingly similar to what I came up with on my without any guidance...lol. Rework, gotta love it. I am curious to know how the CV joint came out without removing the calipers or the tie rod. I could not get near enough clearance without doing that, and mine was missing the last 2 inches of the CV shaft!! He also didn't mention removing the hub and the outer snap ring? Plus the ABS sensor is kind of a PITA since it is the most limiting component. The 1st time I did this I had to take the wire our of all the brackets and disconnect the harness. This time, I just cut them I think the big difference is that those are just boot swaps, you don't have to pull the whole CV out to do that. Mine was for replacing the entire CV joint.
    Well, that write up is clearer than mine, and skips a lot of the things I did, such as removing calipers to minimize stress on the brake lines, and saves chance of tie rod end damage when breaking it loose. I will try again when I do the other side. Although, I have to replace the ball joints anyway.
    Thanks Jack for the heads up.
    (As I humbly walk away with my head hanging low and tail between my legs.)
    Last edited by Marlin : 04/19/2010 at 07:50 PM

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin View Post
    I searched for CV joint replacement, and found nothing about the stupid snap ring. I also looked at the tech manual, it just says something like "remove the CV axle shaft" or something along those lines.
    Wow, I just looked at the CV boot how to, strikingly similar to what I came up with on my without any guidance...lol. Rework, gotta love it. I am curious to know how the CV joint came out without removing the calipers or the tie rod. I could not get near enough clearance without doing that, and mine was missing the last 2 inches of the CV shaft!! He also didn't mention removing the hub and the outer snap ring? Plus the ABS sensor is kind of a PITA since it is the most limiting component. The 1st time I did this I had to take the wire our of all the brackets and disconnect the harness. This time, I just cut them I think the big difference is that those are just boot swaps, you don't have to pull the whole CV out to do that. Mine was for replacing the entire CV joint.
    Well, that write up is clearer than mine, and skips a lot of the things I did, such as removing calipers to minimize stress on the brake lines, and saves chance of tie rod end damage when breaking it loose. I will try again when I do the other side. Although, I have to replace the ball joints anyway.
    Thanks Jack for the heads up.
    (As I humbly walk away with my head hanging low and tail between my legs.)
    Hey Man, don't go on a downer on me. LOL.
    As you mention in your post, your write up was for replacing the whole CV joint. The other how to is just for the boots, and works great for the boots.
    But you cannot replace the whole joint without including at least some of the points your write up covers.
    I only mentioned the other write up because it did mention the snap ring that you found the hard way.
    Keep up the good work Marlin.
    You are obviously enjoying your new found skills.

    PK

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin View Post
    I searched for CV joint replacement, and found nothing about the stupid snap ring. I also looked at the tech manual, it just says something like "remove the CV axle shaft" or something along those lines.
    Wow, I just looked at the CV boot how to, strikingly similar to what I came up with on my without any guidance...lol. Rework, gotta love it. I am curious to know how the CV joint came out without removing the calipers or the tie rod. I could not get near enough clearance without doing that, and mine was missing the last 2 inches of the CV shaft!! He also didn't mention removing the hub and the outer snap ring? Plus the ABS sensor is kind of a PITA since it is the most limiting component. The 1st time I did this I had to take the wire our of all the brackets and disconnect the harness. This time, I just cut them I think the big difference is that those are just boot swaps, you don't have to pull the whole CV out to do that. Mine was for replacing the entire CV joint.
    Well, that write up is clearer than mine, and skips a lot of the things I did, such as removing calipers to minimize stress on the brake lines, and saves chance of tie rod end damage when breaking it loose. I will try again when I do the other side. Although, I have to replace the ball joints anyway.
    Thanks Jack for the heads up.
    (As I humbly walk away with my head hanging low and tail between my legs.)
    Yeah I was wondering why you took the brakes apart as well, I have done work on the CV's a million times it seems like and I never messed with the brakes or ball joints. Just taken off the 4 lower bolts on the lower control arm/ball joint seems to loosen everything enough. It is really fun getting to know the VX though, and some people are able to get the front diff out without even taken apart the center steering link, which is great because that may be the #1 most difficult thing to remove on the VX. I ruined my center link last time I was removing it only to figure out a way to get the diff dropped without totally take it out, but just getting the passenger side loose Learning your VX is half the fun in wrenching though. I betcha I might have the only VX with Home Depot bolts holding together the control arm on the steering

  13. #13
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    Wink

    Where's the step where you add a full tube of fresh CV grease?...

  14. #14
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    [QUOTE=LittleBeast;191601] It is really fun getting to know the VX though, and some people are able to get the front diff out without even taken apart the center steering link, which is great because that may be the #1 most difficult thing to remove on the VX. QUOTE]

    When I did mine, the 1st time I spent quite a while hammering at the pitman arm with the puller as tight as I cuold get it for fear of my life. turns out if you just loosen the 4 bolts that hold the steering box on, the arm will just pop out with hammering I learned that the hard way.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub View Post
    Where's the step where you add a full tube of fresh CV grease?...
    I was putting a new CV in, so I had already done that I was very impressed that the old grease was in great shape! I think they were the original boots as well, no tears, but they were starting to crack, so only a matter of time I suspect.
    Next, check out your tip on the lower link.

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