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Thread: CV joint replacement

  1. #16
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    Marlin,

    It all depends on what you are tearing it apart for. If you're just replacing boots or stuffing new inner races & bearings into the existing outer race then the DL instructions are easies. If you need to pull the axles for changing the outer race, then you'll need to go through all that you did.


    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  2. #17
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    This is awesome, thanks Marlin!!!
    Speed Thrills, Boredom Kills!!

  3. #18
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    Just wanted to add another bit of information... I followed this write up and it went amazing using the EMPI CV, so thank you Merlin! There are two things i would add:
    1) if the tie rod gives you trouble, use a pit-man arm remover (can be rented and then returned from auto parts store) -- it took 10 seconds to get the rod out
    2) To just clarify on the re-install...turn the rotors toward the front of the car and by removing the second bolt from the bump stop makes it even easier to first slide the CV into the bearings of the rotor area then slide the other end into the green cup

    Now for the band that came with the EMPI CV:
    The band is fairly easy to install but you will need a CV band tool (could only buy and then return from an auto parts store, could find anywhere to rent) as stated by Merlin. Just face the part of the band that will be crimped toward the front of the car, and then get under the car to see better and use the tool in the hole between the A-arm and the rotor, it gives the best angle for crimping.

    Once again thanks for the write up, it was very clear! I was going to take pics of my job but you covered it very well.

  4. #19
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    To replace the CV you don't need to remove the tie rod!
    I bought a band tool for about $10 and it worked great...kept it for future use since it was cheap.
    Billy Oliver
    15xIronman
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  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by killinformula View Post
    Just wanted to add another bit of information... I followed this write up and it went amazing using the EMPI CV, so thank you Merlin! There are two things i would add:
    1) if the tie rod gives you trouble, use a pit-man arm remover (can be rented and then returned from auto parts store) -- it took 10 seconds to get the rod out
    2) To just clarify on the re-install...turn the rotors toward the front of the car and by removing the second bolt from the bump stop makes it even easier to first slide the CV into the bearings of the rotor area then slide the other end into the green cup

    Now for the band that came with the EMPI CV:
    The band is fairly easy to install but you will need a CV band tool (could only buy and then return from an auto parts store, could find anywhere to rent) as stated by Merlin. Just face the part of the band that will be crimped toward the front of the car, and then get under the car to see better and use the tool in the hole between the A-arm and the rotor, it gives the best angle for crimping.

    Once again thanks for the write up, it was very clear! I was going to take pics of my job but you covered it very well.
    Glad it was helpful, but dude, its marlin, not Merlin, merlin is one of our Zu contacts out of St Charles, MO.

    I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
    Thomas Jefferson

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin View Post
    Glad it was helpful, but dude, its Charlie Tuna, not Merlin, merlin is one of our Zu contacts out of St Charles, MO.
    Fixed it!

  7. #22
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    haha sorry Marlin, i posted on my ipod touch and it was to much of a pain to go back and check.. i knew i was taking a stab at it. Thanks for being a good sport, and i will remember it from now on

  8. #23
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    1999 Ebony Black (Runs great/Looks a lil less than great... but getting there!)
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    That damn C-Ring

    4 years later. I have the engine out, and I figure "Hey, let's go through the entire undercarriage and lift, etc while the car is 'in lighter fashion'!" (Silly NY'er... 4x4's are for west folk...)

    Passenger side Lower ball joint bolt head (outer rear bolt) is spinning in the "carriaged A-arm socket" and I finally got purchase on it... Outer psgr CV boot tears.... (wa-wa-waaaaaaa! *game show fail tune, followed with manly sigh!*)

    Inner CV Boots are "rubber crackingly dry" upon inspection, and the axles are only like $60 ea at O'Reilly's... Ahh what the hell, I'm already in here so in for a penny, in for a pound...

    And then I meet Lucifer himself.... the Snap ring that holds these bastards in. 100 degree weather.. beer is running low... WTF is holding these sumbitches in like Alcatraz prisoners!?!?! C-Ring(s)...

    After this I need to find a wiring harness that goes to psgr side O2 Sensor(s) which were melted by 'conveniently resting atop the exhaust' whilst wrapped around the driveshaft to the rear pumpkin, and I am desperately seeking a new heater core (in for a pound, now in for a ton)

    Contacted RD for the radiator, waiting for the 3" lift with 919's, looking for steel brake lines and will need tires. Not an easy fixer-upper, but I ate a lot of rice with a lil soy, switched to sake and put on the Vapors in order to "think a lil more land o' the Rising Sun"

    EXCELLENT Photos/walk-thru FOUR YRZ LATER!!
    Always Forward,
    The Down to Earth Nurse

  9. #24
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    That ring is a PITA, you have to start clearing grease until you see the open end. I use a pick and sometimes a flat head and seems to work. Since I have learned how to drive over the last 4 yrs, I haven't had any problems with CV joints. As for torn boots, the RS has had a torn boot for years, I just fill it with grease every once in a while and let it ride. Going on 5 yrs, no problems. Same with the prop shaft boots, although it is starting to make noise

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by sindarin View Post
    And then I meet Lucifer himself.... the Snap ring that holds these bastards in. 100 degree weather.. beer is running low... WTF is holding these sumbitches in like Alcatraz prisoners!?!?! C-Ring(s)...
    I just got finished changing upper and lower ball joints on both side, as well as doing the inner and outer cv boots (both sides)....first time for doing any of it on the VX. Easiest way I found to get them off: the cup has 6 indentions in it for each of the 6 ball bearings that need to fit in there. Get a flat head and slide along one of the indentions until you find the ring. Wriggle your screwdriver under it, pull it up, and keep on sliding it around until you come to the end of it. Use a pair if needle nose to hold that end and circle back round w/the flat head until you come to the other end and pull it out.

  11. #26
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    I got the driver side inner cv out by just pulling the 4 control arm bolts. Was gonna just replace boot. Saw the passenger side inner was also torn. Now Im doing both axles with aftermarket ones, was wondering if the cheap O'rielly ones can handle the angle since I'm lifted? did anyone do the ball joint flip when doing these? isn't it supposed to align the cv more straight if your lifted?
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    Milwaukee WI

  12. #27
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    Flipping ball joints will do nothing for your cv angle...it only makes alignments easier after a lift.

  13. #28
    Member Since
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    99 Astral Silver VX #1872 + 99 Ironman WIP
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    Wrench

    Quote Originally Posted by djvx View Post
    I got the driver side inner cv out by just pulling the 4 control arm bolts. Was gonna just replace boot. Saw the passenger side inner was also torn. Now Im doing both axles with aftermarket ones, was wondering if the cheap O'rielly ones can handle the angle since I'm lifted? did anyone do the ball joint flip when doing these? isn't it supposed to align the cv more straight if your lifted?
    Billy nailed it on the ball joint flip. The only thing that straightens out the CV angle is dropping the front differential with diff drop brackets.

    These from O'Reillys look to be of good quality, & IIRC, Jo has used them with good results.

    These are ten bucks cheaper per, and are also neoprene. I'd suggest comparing the two side by side on the counter to feel the thickness/flexibility, and make the call based on which you think will last longer.

    (note: the diameter of the hub & shaft openings are larger on the cheaper one, make sure it's not too big @ 3.85" vs 3.30")

    Good Luck & Happy
    Last edited by Ldub : 11/02/2014 at 08:18 AM

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub View Post
    These from O'Reillys look to be of good quality, & IIRC, Jo has used them with good results.

    These are ten bucks cheaper per, and are also neoprene. I'd suggest comparing the two side by side on the counter to feel the thickness/flexibility, and make the call based on which you think will last longer.

    (note: the diameter of the hub & shaft openings are larger on the cheaper one, make sure it's not too big @ 3.85" vs 3.30")
    The second ones you posted came in without the Dorman name on the package ... & only lasted 2 days on the Amigo. I'll be switching them out to AutoZone ones that look like OEM. They worked out well for me on the VX.

  15. #30
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    OK....how the hell do you get the lower ball joints bolts off when they are recessed in the arm? It just keeps spinning

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